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Wuh wuh wuh sound

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Coldjustin, Nov 26, 2019.

  1. Dec 2, 2019 at 9:15 AM
    #31
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    Kenwood ddx9904s, leveled with 305/55/20 nitto terra grapplers g2's. Dual flow masters
    I gave the backing plate some breathing room. Noise is definitely gone. I can still feel the back bearings are bad though.
     
  2. Dec 2, 2019 at 9:59 AM
    #32
    Mr. Seven

    Mr. Seven New Member

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    Eibach Lift Level 8 MK6 18x9 ET12 295/70R18's 4.88's Auburn JBA exhaust
    Did the TSB mention a bad batch of bearings? When I had my gears done I had them do new front & rear master install kits + ECGS PTFE bushing. Kinda makes me wonder if the noise disappeared from the PTFE bushing or if my rear hub bearings were bad too...o_O
     
  3. Dec 2, 2019 at 11:07 AM
    #33
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    I haven't read much into the TSB. Every 2nd gen Tundra I've seen with any kind of miles on it has needed the ECGS bushing though. Same with Tacomas. If they have been lifted it'll worsen the wear on the axle bearing but I've seen many fail with no lift. ECGS saved so many people by making that bushing. If you don't really pay close attention you can miss the rear bearing noise. I do this stuff everyday and I didn't notice it right away when I bought the truck. I just thought it was the axle bushing up front.
     
  4. Dec 8, 2019 at 12:48 PM
    #34
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    Kenwood ddx9904s, leveled with 305/55/20 nitto terra grapplers g2's. Dual flow masters
    Fyi. The 12 ton press from harbor freight is not tall enough for our rear axles. The 20 ton does the job nicely though. Torque some bolts and put the brakes back on and the left side will be done. Had to get some all thread from tractor supply and use the new bearing housing on the press to hold the bearing still while pressing the axle out. Toyota says you need a special tool plus a press. No says I!
     
    Mr. Seven likes this.
  5. Dec 15, 2019 at 10:07 AM
    #35
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    Kenwood ddx9904s, leveled with 305/55/20 nitto terra grapplers g2's. Dual flow masters
    Rear wheels bearings were absolutely shot. Got both of them done and now the truck rolls like it should. No wuh wuh wuh sound. It was the most noticeable when decelerating at about 30 mph. Drove it after repairs and duplicated the speed and load it would make the noise the worst. Noise is gone. I will say this though. I've put wheel bearings in several vehicles. And do them on Freightliners at least once a week at work. I've never fought and cussed a wheel bearing job like this. It's not an easy job at all. If you took the axles to a dealer or machine shop and let them do the press work its a gravy job. If you're like me and do it all in house be ready for a battle. Even with the 12" wide aggressive tires its smooth as silk now. Maybe I'm too paranoid over wheel bearings but I know how these trucks roll when they are right. And now mine is right. Thanks for all the help.
     
  6. Dec 15, 2019 at 3:51 PM
    #36
    Mr. Seven

    Mr. Seven New Member

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    Nice work man, glad you got it squared away:thumbsup:.

    Thanks for updating thread as well....that doesn't happen enough.
     
    Coldjustin[OP] likes this.
  7. Dec 15, 2019 at 4:23 PM
    #37
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    I hope it helps someone. If you are concerned over the rear bearings, pulling the rear rotor and looking at the backing plate is absolutely the easiest way to troubleshoot.
     
    Mr. Seven[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Dec 16, 2019 at 5:11 AM
    #38
    SOB

    SOB Big Member

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    Thanks for the details. I've been following this thread because I think I need to replace my rear bearings as well.

    After I replaced my brakes and rotors last year I noticed a metal on metal scraping noise from one side. Upon inspection I found the backing plate had a groove worn in it. I bent the backing plate a little bit and the noise went away. How bad is it to continue driving like this, with a worn wheel bearing? I don't currently notice any vibrations or noises.

    IMG_0199.jpg
     
  9. Dec 16, 2019 at 5:50 AM
    #39
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    Kenwood ddx9904s, leveled with 305/55/20 nitto terra grapplers g2's. Dual flow masters
    Eventually the bearing will get bad enough it'll cause the abs pickup to contact the abs sensor. When this happens it adds a great expense to the repair. From what ive found the abs sensor is $182 each side. I don't think there's much fear of a wheel running off due to the rear bearings but I guess if they got bad enough it could happen. If I were you I'd continue to drive it and prepare for the rear bearing replacement. If you have an abs light on or come on I'd not drive it until the repairs are done. I think the dealer charges $1800 for rear bearing replacement. Or if you order the Moog bearing assemblies you'll have around $300-400 in parts. The bearing retainers are $31 each at the dealer and they are needed as well. The driver side bearing assembly was $150 at AutoZone. The passenger side was $180. My dealer ship wanted $200 to press them off and new ones on the axle if i carried them the axle and new parts in. I had the first axle out in 30 minutes. Second side took 18 minutes. I did 1 side at a time and split it up over 2 weekends because I couldn't do without the truck.
     
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  10. Dec 16, 2019 at 6:01 AM
    #40
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    Kenwood ddx9904s, leveled with 305/55/20 nitto terra grapplers g2's. Dual flow masters
    I went with lifetime warranty bearing assemblies on the front and the Moog had a 3 year warranty on the rear. My labor is unfortunately free to me and if I ever need to replace another wheel bearing within the next 3 years it won't cost me much at all. I'd still have to buy the bearing retainer but that's nothing in comparison to the bearings. And running the wheel tire combo I'm running I feel like I'll be doing this job again within the next 3-5 years. I plan on keeping this truck until it is falling apart. I said that on the last 3 trucks too.
     
  11. Dec 16, 2019 at 6:01 AM
    #41
    Trikerider

    Trikerider New Member

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    Just had my passenger side rear wheel bearing replaced by the dealer under the certified pre-owned warranty, cost me $50 for the deductible. The dealer said it would have cost around $800. My ABS started acting up intermittently right before I got it in to be replaced and is still acting up at different times. Going to try a cheaper sensor online instead of the $180 sensor.
     
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  12. Dec 16, 2019 at 6:05 AM
    #42
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    2008 Limited Crewmax
    Kenwood ddx9904s, leveled with 305/55/20 nitto terra grapplers g2's. Dual flow masters
    It took me a good while to get my sensors out of the bearing housing. I didn't attempt taking them out until I had the axle laying on the ground. They are brittle and plastic. I worked cautiously and took my time and it was still sketchy. Huge relieve when I got them out unharmed. I just priced them from Toyota and that told me to be careful.
     
  13. Dec 16, 2019 at 6:08 AM
    #43
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    Kenwood ddx9904s, leveled with 305/55/20 nitto terra grapplers g2's. Dual flow masters
    I've heard of several trucks with low mileage needing the rear bearings. Even on 3rd gen trucks. That's another reason I went with aftermarket bearings. I think the Moog assemblies are made by some other company. Matter of fact I'm sure of it. But at least they have a 3 year warranty. OEM replacements are 1 year.
     
  14. Dec 16, 2019 at 6:47 AM
    #44
    Coldjustin

    Coldjustin [OP] New Member

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    Kenwood ddx9904s, leveled with 305/55/20 nitto terra grapplers g2's. Dual flow masters
    It's a good idea to use some wd40 or the equivalent down in the hole the abs sensor goes in. It uses a rubber oring and the rubber dries out and it sticks in there better than you'd ever imagine. Get a small gap in between where the abs sensor and the bearing housing meet. Gently with a flathead screwdriver. Once you have the gap spray in between the 2 surfaces and let it sit. Repeat a few times and the sensor comes out easier. I pushed it from the backside so I had less worries. But if you don't have the axle out you can't. I'd try to not damage your old sensor when removing it. It can be put back in either side for troubleshooting.
     

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