2014 transmission maintenance question

I'm glad you finally got it right! I had to add another quart to mine when I check it and it was just right after that. I tell you what adding fluid was a pain lol

 

You gotta get a hand transfer pump. Not difficult at all.

 

I'm curious how now with the 2019+ not having a cooler line running to the radiator how you'll drain the system. Maybe just drain what's in the pan? I'm sure someone will have it figured out by the time I need to know but was just thinking after reading this.

 

I ran a 5/8 od clear hose down the from engine bay and it kept kinking so the flow was terrible! Definitely gonna use my transfer pump next time.

 

The coiling memory built into polyvinyl tubing is a pita in any case, but that location is convenient compared to the 4.6L. Fill port for the A760 is back near the tail shaft housing on the passenger side! I foresee a big mess in my future.

 

nice thread guys; thanks for doing all of that legwork!

My '17 is just over 21k miles... so I'm stocking up on fluids for the 30k service to lessen the $$$ sting!

I was at the dealer yesterday (follow-up visit of my cam tower inspection after 1k ...she's still clean; very slow seep?).

My local service manager knows that I'm a DIY-er and supports my "habits".

When I inquired if they'd be willing to set the trans fluid level if I performed a pan drop, he said yes but it would actually cost more (> $300) than if they did the full (12qt?) replacement ($279).

That price is a tad salty for my taste (for a 30k service interval) but they'd at least be on the hook if the trans took a dump following the service.

I'm still unsure what I'll do but seriously considering the option.

 

Make it easy on yourself and forego that paperclip jumpering, shift lever moving, dash watching game.

Get a Scangauge or Ultragauge in advance, and set it up with the PIDs required read the transmission temps. That info is on both manufacturer websites; for ScanGauge, it's under "X-Gauge Commands". When you do the fluid change, plug the ScanGuage into the OBD2 port and string out the cord out to under the truck so you can read the transmission temps digitally. You'll save enough to pay for a ScanGuage over letting the dealer do the level check, and have a couple hundred left over.

I recommend confirming the accuracy of your ScanGauge programming BEFORE the final level setting. You can use an infrared thermometer to verify you're in the ball park, but the IR gun WILL NOT be accurate for the final level setting...you'll want the temperature at the Toyota thermocouple inside the transmission pan.

Slightly overfill the ATF level by measuring what you drained, then add 1/2 quart for fill volume. After the fluid change, start the engine. As soon as the ScanGauge hits the temperature threshold (99 deg for the 5.7L), triple verify the checking plug in the pan dimple (Not the drain plug), then remove the transmission level check plug. Let the fluid run to slight dribble, then replace the plug. Don't let it "drip" to a stop...it will never stop; it will just keep dripping as the temperature increases.

 

I will have to perform this on my 2019 in a couple weeks when I install my external cooler. With the cooler and atf lines being dry do you all recommend overfilling the trans by let's say 1-2 quarts then starting the engine with the thermostat open?

Also, is it an issue to go to the temp threshold (111°) then turning off the engine with electrical power still on to monitor temps? I feel you will have more time this way to perform the check and fill.

 

I wouldn't, personally.
When I did my first trans service (pan drop, filter replacement, and flush) the trans was at operating temp because I had to drive to the dealer to pick up the filter. Between turning it on and off a few times here and there the temperature stayed too hot for a long time. I think I was finally able to get the temp low enough to check it after about 8 hours. It was 2am before I was completely done.
That's why now I do it first thing in the morning after sitting overnight.

YMMV.

 

What I was trying to get to is why not let it reach 111° then turning off the engine. That way you have plenty of time to check it while it slowly loses temp

 

Just keep in mind that the hotter the ATF temperature is when you set the level, the lower the fluid level in your transmission will be when it cools back down.

That's why I said to use 99 deg as the lowest threshold. As the engine idles, the ATF temp will be increasing, plus the ATF volume expanding, the ATF level rising, and the more fluid running out of the check port after you open it. If you wait until 111 deg, then you have waited while entire level setting window has passed you by. Any screwing around trying to get the check plug out, waiting for the fluid to finish dribbling out, etc. and you will be technically underfilled when cold by whatever fluid expansion happened while you were, uh...fooling around. I figure any fluid level within the specified temp window is allowed; slight underfilling, maybe not such a good thing depending on how long it takes you (after 111 deg) to get the level setting process done.

Assuming your supply and return hoses are 3/8" i.d. and 8' long each, I estimate total hose volume at less than 1/2 quart (surprisingly low). Check with the manufacturer for volume of fluid inside the cooler. If they don't have a clue, then you can always fill it full of fluid and measure.

 

I don't see the difference in waiting until 99 to start filling then doing it at 111 and then filling it up again at 99. I'm not sure how long it takes for the warmer to get from 99 to 111 but I'm sure it's only a few minutes. With the engine off I just feel there won't be the rush factor to it. Either way, both ways get the job done. As far as the cooler. I'll probably end up hooking everything up adding an extra quart to fill everything up then wait until 111 to check and fill then another check and fill at 99.

 

FWIW, Toyota's procedure for level checking calls for the transmission level to be checked while the engine is idling, just as transmission fluid levels have always been checked. You can't idle to raise the ATF to 111 deg, shut off the engine, and get a proper level adjustment as the fluid cools.

Another important point here: You don't wait until 99 deg to start filling. You add fluid until it runs out the check port when cold, then replace the check plug, and add as much additional fill as you think warranted. It's your transmission and your decision, but I personally would add no more than one quart at a time. I would also probably consider pre-filling as much of the cooler and the hoses as possible before the final connection; i.e. fill the cooler through the bottom cooler supply hose (at the thermostat) with the top cooler return hose disconnected at the thermostat.

 

John has already responded about this and I couldn’t have said any of it better.

 

From our Lab: “The 204 SAT is higher viscosity than the 205, so if you aren’t experiencing shifting issues it is safe to continue to run, there is no long term negative impact.”

This is the email I received from Schaeffers this morning, glad to hear I can run the 204 without and issues. I'll probably still change it out for the 205 in 30k

 

After reading why Toyota changed the spec I think you might be better off with the 204. In a warm climate such as yours with 90 plus degrees for nearly 3 months and mild winters I think it would resist break down better. WS is not a true synthetic anyway. External cooler and inline magnetic filter would help extend the change intervals. I wouldn't be afraid of 50 or 60 thousand.

 

So why did toyota change the spec? Fuel economy? Just curious. And I'll probably put an inline filter in it eventually, I was also thinking about installing a T with valves in the front cooler line, so I can just hook up a hose, open and close a valve, and drain it that way for a super easy drain and fill method

 

It is thought to be an economic issue that Toyota was avoiding a cost per unit sold.

 

Ahh ok! That makes sense. I imagine I'll be just fine with the thicker fluid in my region like you mentioned, I do travel all over the country for work but by the time I have a job in a cold climate I'll probably have the fluid thinned out a bit, I put alot of miles on my truck. I've put almost 4k miles on it in the month I've had it.

 

Just an update, I've put a little over 4k miles on the truck since changing the fluid to 204SAT. Its shifting great and giving me no issues. It's been getting down to the low 30s and upper 20s sometimes here in el paso and it hasn't missed a beat in low temp situations.

 

Ok guys I would like some opinions here. I have a 2015 Tundra TRD Limited. I bought it with 120,000 miles on it. Now it has 145,000 and the only thing the Toyota dealer can’t find is the transmission fluid has never been changed. I want to get this done ASAP. Would you recommend a flush or change everything?

 

Flush instead of just a drain/fill....wouldn't worry about the OEM 'filter', might want to add a real filter like Magnefine...

 

So the general consensus is not to do a flush in a high mileage vehicle if you have never done either drain and fill or flushed regularly. Personally, I would just do a drain and fill and then again every six months or until the fluid looks bright red.

 

If you have the skills to DIY, and your <2019 truck has the tow package with the ATF cooler up front, then a "flush" would be better because you change ALL the fluid. The procedure is pretty complicated for an average owner. Getting a dealer flush is no bueno because of possible debris and fluid type cross-contamination from the previous junker flush. For the average owner, repeated drain and fills with no strainer change is the safest course.

 

I have a 2019 so no cooler and was thinking for periodic maintenance to just drain what ever comes out, measure it and refill with that amount. Figure that way no messing with the crazy fluid level check process.

 

That is my plan, I have cases of the fluid so i will do a drain and fill every 20 to 30k

 

Hey guys, just a quick update on the Schaeffers 204SAT I'm running. Truck currently has 196k on it, so 21k miles on the trans fluid so far, lots of highway miles, off roading, mud holes, and pulling a 6500lb travel trailer and it's doing great! Havent noticed any difference with the thicker viscosity trans fluid. It did well in 20 degree temps as well when I was traveling earlier this year. Hope this helps anyone interested!

 

Thanks for creating this thread! It has been the most valuable for 3rd gen tundras that I've come across.

I have 82K on my 2016 and I am about to "DIY flush" the tranny but I'm a little scared of breaking the bolts when dropping the pan. I haven't ever extracted many broken bolts. I also thought about exchanging the fluid without the pan drop/filter change but that would drive me insane. I'll spray the bolts good with some kroil and see if they'll want to loosen. I wonder how many have dropped the pan without breaking off the bolts?

@Sumo91 Where did you get the 10.9 grade bolts? Toyota?

 

I got them from a local store that had a good selection of bolts and things. Dont quite remember the thread pitch or anything, not sure if I posted it here or not. Extracting bolts can be a bit of a pain, and especially bad when it's on your transmission. I had to drill through the bolt completely because I couldnt extract it, and put in a helicoil kit. The last thing you want to do is break your extractor in the broken bolt, it's near impossible to get out when that happens, because the extractor is harder than a drill bit. Probably wouldn't hurt to use kroil and a heat gun to help loosen the bolts before removing. I see you're up north so it may be more of an issue getting the bolts out. The bolt that broke on my trans was one that went through the trans on the corner and you could see the top of the bolt, if you're able to, get a dremel and wire wheel and try to clean up those threads that you see really well, I didnt do that, and that's why the bolt broke, because it was coming out just fine, then got hung up and snapped because of gunk build up in the threads. If you need anything just let me know!

 

Ok, thanks. Very helpful info!