2014 transmission maintenance question

Anyone have the TSB for changing fluid and checking level on a 2018 5.7 w/ tow package?

 

This is how you check the fluid. I dropped the pan and replaced the gasket, filter, and filter o ring, added 4 quarts, then drained 2 quarts at a time through the transmission cooler line, 4 times, to replace 8 more quarts, for a total of 12 quarts, I had to add an extra quart to bring the fluid level to the correct spec.

 

Did a drain and fill on mine this past weekend when I changed the engine oil. It’s been 15K since I did the filter and full flush. Fluid looked good. The above instructions say for 2015 but it’s the same for a 2012. It took a total of 5.5 quarts. Now down 1 of my 2 cases of Toyota WS that I got for $5 each. Think I’ll do the next fluid change after 30K instead.

 

That's a good price for that fluid!! I really like Schaeffers products, they're 204SAT All Trans Supreme fluid is phenomenal and highly regarded, it's worth looking into when you run out of WS fluid. I might do a UOA on this fluid at 50k and see how it comes back before I see what intervals I'm gonna do, my dealership said it needs 100k intervals. In my old 7.3 I change it every 30k but this newer transmission may not warrant such a short interval on fluid. Only time will tell. If the filter looks good when I cut it open I'll only change the filter every 200k since this one had 175k on it and the magnets in the pan had almost zero material on them.

 

Likely a waste of time to cut the filter open. If the transmission filter is doing anything, the filter should be dirtier on the outside than on the inside. Pump suction pulls ATF through the filter media and into the pump suction pipe.

Edit: Scratch that. My bad. Configuration of the filter is such that you have cut the filter open to see either the "outside" or "inside" of the filter media. Be sure to post the pics.

 

Thank you. Will using a obd2 app that has the pan and TC temp the same as checking in through techstream?

 

I have had good luck with left hand drill bits removing broken bolts. The key is getting it center punched straight and drilling a small hole through the bolt first. And as stated above pure nickel anti seize works wonders for anything that needs to come back apart down the road

 

I don’t believe so. If you read the instructions posted it says something like “it is necessary to put it in trans temp mode so the vehicle idles property to be able to check the fluid.”

 

I used a center punch and a 1/8th left handed drill bit first, it didnt work, then I used and extractor, and it was on the verge of breaking, and you never get those suckers out once they break, especially one that small, so i just drilled, tapped, and installed a helicoil, I got lucky because the bolt that broke was on the side of the trans so it was a straight through hole that I could drill completely through. And I did use nickel never seaze. It's what we use in the refineries.

 

What sort of extractor did you use? The older easy out type or the tapered square shouldered ones? Try a quality torque Head that will drive in on a 3/8 drive. And in the case like yours where it's threaded through take 2 parts acetone and 1 part ATF well mixed and apply from the top. Better than kroil just remember to shake it up.

 

It was the square shouldered one. The bolt was really seized up, but I shouldn't have that problem in the future at least with these bolts

 

I dinged my radiator on my 2006 once while replacing the timing belt (the instructions said to remove it but I didn't). The next time I taped a piece of cardboard on the inside surface to protect it. Worked like a champ.

Dan

 

The thing is, I have a piece of thick cardboard specifically for this, but i figured i didnt need it just this once, kinda like safety glasses, you think you can get away without wearing them for just a minute, them bam, something in your eye. But i just got the radiator repaired today, he cleaned it and flushed it too. 40 bucks cash. And it's like new! It was pretty dirty on the outside too, he did a jam up job getting it fixed and cleaning it. Only took him 2 hours

 

Interested to see the filter as well as I was hesitant to use Schaeffers trans fluid vs Toyota WS. I really don’t need such an expensive part taking a shit on me. I run Schaeffers in everything else on the truck though, diffs, oil, and hydraulic fluid in the PS system. Please let us know if you notice anything odd with their trans fluid

 

I've put about 600 miles on it so far and great!!! It exceeds toyota spec, and it's working great in the tundra. From what I've read, the toyota ws fluid has a pretty weak additive package in it. It's why I didnt use it. I've run Schaeffers all trans supreme in my vehicles and my friends have started using it too. Not one problem to report. I just order a case of 75w90 Schaeffer gear oil for the front and rear diff as well. I know it calls for 75w85 but I haven't read about any problems using 75w90

 

Yup my local rep I just bought a bucket of 75w-90 and a bucket pump from him and it actually cost me less than a case of bottles. Been very happy with the engine oil and running their hydraulic fluid in the PS system I can tell a difference in winter when it gets cold.

I found a great detailed video doing a full fluid exchange using the cooler line. I’ll most likely do it myself next time using Schaeffer’s. Had my local dealer do it when I bought it used at 104k miles, and they even picked it up from my work and dropped it back off for me when done. Couldn’t have been easier. Was just a drain and fill.


https://youtu.be/kkrSZ26uKm8

 

@Sumo91 also the reason I asked is *technically* 204SAT is not listed on Schaeffer’s technical data sheet as meeting equivalency for Toyota WS, however their 205A Dexron/ Mercon does. Think I should go with 205A? I’m leaning towards that, but my rep is recommending 204SAT, saying it’s truly a better fluid, although they are both great.

https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/90-204SAT-td.pdf

https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/267-205A-td.pdf

 

I believe ws fluid is a toyota type III fluid, or type II and the 204SAT is compatible with either. It is a superior fluid compared to ws, which has a weak additive package, I do alot of my research on oils and fluid on Bob is the oil guy .com, or BITOG for short, it a full of great info on any oil imaginable by people who really know their stuff. I'll keep you updated on how the fluid works for me in the tundra

 

Ok guys, the moment you've all been waiting for!! I split apart the filter, it is not a mesh screen, but a fiber type filter, almost like the pads you put down to soak up oil spills, and I was surprised at what I found inside, there was hardly any material inside of it! (Imo at least), I dont think I'm gonna change the filter again, because after 175k miles, the filter looked great. And did its job well. If you happen to have the pan gasket start leaking, it would be worthwhile to change, but other than that, a simple drain and refill should be all that is needed.

 

Thank you for posting these results! That is literally nothing compared to the chunks I found inside the filter of a GM 4L60E transmission that gave me problems 15 years ago with about the same mileage.

 

Did a search from old posts and put in JWS 3309 and this came up from 07-03-14 WS transmission fluid is garbage . Get it out of your transmission now. Certainly an interesting read about $ and claims of fluid life and how things change. I have much to learn about Toyota it seems

That old filter looks great. Do you know if the three clock looking things with arrows stamped on the old filter are a code or date of some kind???

 

It could very well be a date code, I'll look at it closer tomorrow and see what it says exactly. And I was really surprised at how clean the filter was! I wont be replacing it again.

 

I didn't cut mine apart when I changed it at 94K but I could see the color of the material was pretty similar to yours. Maybe a little bit lighter (aka not as dirty?).

 

I'm on the fence about needing to replace it again. But I probably won't until at least another 100K. IDK. A filter is a filter. Cheap insurance.

I would recommend everyone change it if they do a drain and fill and the fluid is black and not red anymore. That would tell me theres more than normal clutch pack material in the fluid so the filter may be blocked a bit.

 

I dont think the filter would be stopped up just because the fluid is dark, but that's just my opinion, I believe if you left the filter and filled with new fluid the filter would change colors to whatever the new fluid is. Again, this is just my opinion and it's not based on anything concrete. I do agree that changing the filter with every fluid change would the best practice, but after seeing the inside of this one I'm comfortable going 200k at least with the new filter, especially since I'll be using a better fluid, and changing it more often than it has been changed in the past

 

I wonder what the average service life of a Gen 3 transmission is. IMHO any hydro unit that runs 250,000 is a pretty good one design wise.

 

There was the one guy with a million miles on his 07, his reverse went out at 700k, I imagine with regular service and good fluids you could go 500k easily with this transmission. I have 294k on my 95 7.3 with the orignal E4OD, but the fluid and filter was changed every 30k, it still shifts strong and I would drive it across the country without worry.

 

Great thread guys! Thanks for the good information!

 

Ok, after doing more research. Ws fluid is a jw3324 fluid and 204sat is a jw3309, apparently the only difference is the 3309 is slightly higher in viscosity, the jw3324 is thinner and used to get better mpg from my research. Now what harm this can do is unknown to me, but I'll do some digging and see what I can find. So far the 204sat is great in the truck. But if I need to change it out again I will. I don't think it will hurt anything but I'll keep everyone updated on my research. I honestly thought the 204sat was the correct spec fluid for the transmission, but I didnt do enough research.

 

So after my drain and fill the other day I could feel something was off.. Just kinda shifted a tad bit different I thought. Worried.. I was thinking "am I imagining it.."
So this morning I got up and first thing I did was add 1/2 quart into my transmission. You think I'm crazy? But read on...
I pinned the thermostat, placed the jumper in the OBD connector, turned the truck on and put it into fluid detection mode.
Here's where I realized what I was doing wrong: Previously after moving the shifter back and forth and getting the D light up for 2 seconds and turn off I was leaving the transmission in drive or neutral with the e-brake on.
Why? Because step 5, letter E says "return the shift lever to P and terminate the active test on tech stream." <- I thought putting it back in P would cancel the entire fluid temp detection mode.
It took at least 5 mins, maybe more, of idling in P for the transmission to reach operating temp and the D to light up saying it was at 99*. If you leave it in drive or neutral the transmission will heat up too quickly and will throw off your fluid level.
When it reached 99* I quickly hopped under the truck and pulled the check plug.. NOTHING. So I shut off the truck, put the remainder of the quart in, then turned the truck back on and quickly got back into detection mode. It took another minute or two idling for it to get back to 99* even though it was just there previously. I quickly pulled the check plug and had maybe 1/4-1/2 quart come out. Boom.
No more strange shifting.

TL;DR?
After turning fluid detection mode on, put the shifter back in park and let the transmission warm up slowly before pulling the check plug. If it warms up too fast, or its in gear, you may have slightly low fluid.