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DIY: Front Coilover Install - Completed with Toytec Radflo 2.5

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by csuviper, May 4, 2017.

  1. Jun 20, 2018 at 8:36 PM
    #91
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Brian
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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Taller you go the stiffer any Lift is going to be.
     
  2. Jun 21, 2018 at 7:07 AM
    #92
    Toytec Lifts

    Toytec Lifts New Member

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    They are going to be adjustable up to the 3'' of lift
     
  3. Jun 26, 2018 at 9:26 AM
    #93
    kirk1963

    kirk1963 New Member

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    Hi guys, just a quick update - I adjusted my coilovers to 3" - and still found the ride to be a good bit stiffer than they were stock, (2"). Accordingly, I added a spacer to each side (note I found that the studs in the radflos are only big enough for 1 1/4" spacer).
    I adjusted the ride height to 3" (25" center of hub to top of fender well) - so 2.5" radflo + the 1/4" shim. I find that it rides much better than at 3". Note there are a lot of potholes near me - so I'm probably more sensitive to ride quality on a day to day basis than most. If may roads were smooth, I would've been fine with the 3" adjustment with no shim.

    Hope this is helpful to somebody.
     
  4. Jul 9, 2018 at 1:06 PM
    #94
    HBdirtbag

    HBdirtbag New Member

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    Give it time, mine have really broken in over time and I'm quit happy after having some doubts at first. I've let a couple people borrow the truck over the last few months and every single one of them has come back and said how they felt like the thing drove like it was on a cloud and was not at all what they expected (most have been total none car people).

    I do wish we had a lower spring rate options, I think 650lbs would be perfect.

    I haven't had it off road in a few months, but was very happy with it when I did.

    I think i'd want to remove my rear lift and lower the front a tad (i'm at 3" up front). But i don't like a rake....and toytec doesn't recommend no lift on the rear with the rear shocks.
     
    zcarpenter92 and sr5shark like this.
  5. Jul 9, 2018 at 2:00 PM
    #95
    ninjajay

    ninjajay Posting from the toilet

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    2018 MGM 1794 TRD 4x4
    Toytec/Radflo Lift, Ambit RS02 18x9+0, Bridgestone Revo 3 295/70/18
    I've had these on my 18 for a few weeks now and while initial bump is stiffer than the stock TRD, they're way better damped and absorb the "entire" bump way better than stock. Crashing is completely gone.
     
  6. Apr 4, 2019 at 11:18 PM
    #96
    IvandGreat

    IvandGreat New Member

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    Supercharged, Exhaust, Leveling Kit, Toyo MT
    Great point. I just had an alignment done 3k miles ago, i have a 2.5 spacer, im installing fox 2.5 and am going with 2.75 total lift, what do you think? Align it?
     
  7. Apr 4, 2019 at 11:55 PM
    #97
    xtyfighterx

    xtyfighterx New Member

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    Ty
    North Idaho
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    Mid travel fox 2.5 coilovers 2.0 real shocks shims 295 70 18 trail grapplers pro accessories 32in light bar blacked out bed cover sway bar Moto metal 970 18x9
    Did mine the same but didn’t need to remove tie rod ends.

    Lessened the inner lca bolts so it could swing down
     
  8. Dec 11, 2019 at 5:49 PM
    #98
    Spakylpm

    Spakylpm New Member

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    About to try this install after years ago doing it on my 2010 I also don't remember having to remove tie rods. Can someone please advise if that is necessary. Thanks in advance!
     
  9. Dec 11, 2019 at 7:10 PM
    #99
    xtyfighterx

    xtyfighterx New Member

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    Mid travel fox 2.5 coilovers 2.0 real shocks shims 295 70 18 trail grapplers pro accessories 32in light bar blacked out bed cover sway bar Moto metal 970 18x9
    No need to mess with tie rods
     
    equin likes this.
  10. Dec 11, 2019 at 10:28 PM
    #100
    equin

    equin Texarican Tundra

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    TRD Rear Anti-sway bar, TRD Pro skid plate, Bedrug bed mat, 17" Icon Rebounds, 315/70/17 BFG AT/K02, Bilstein 6112s front (for now), Fox 2.5 Remote Reservoirs rear, Diamondback SE, Dirtydeeds Industries 8" stainless BAMuffler, aFe dry air filter, TRD air intake accelerator
    Agree. I didn’t remove them when I did my coilovers.
     
  11. Dec 17, 2019 at 11:54 PM
    #101
    Skidmarks

    Skidmarks New Member

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    Great thread guys. Picked up a set of 2.5 Radflos from Boss 4x4s great customer service btw. Going to throw these on with my new JBA UCAs. Spoke to David from coachbuilder and he says the best way to set these up is with a CB shim on the drivers side to correct lean and keep the preload identical on each side.
     
    equin likes this.
  12. Dec 18, 2019 at 4:41 PM
    #102
    xtyfighterx

    xtyfighterx New Member

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    Mid travel fox 2.5 coilovers 2.0 real shocks shims 295 70 18 trail grapplers pro accessories 32in light bar blacked out bed cover sway bar Moto metal 970 18x9
    I did the shim with my fox coilovers to. David is a good guy I’d get a diff drop to if you plan on being over 2.5” and if you go over an 1” in the rear I’d do the carrier bearing drop.
     
    Skidmarks[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Dec 18, 2019 at 8:57 PM
    #103
    Skidmarks

    Skidmarks New Member

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    TY, Did you do 2 shims driver side and 1 PS or just the 1 PS?
    I also purchased the JBA UCAs so I can get a solid alignment with plenty of adjustability. I plan on going a full 3-3.5 up front to level with the rear. Still may need a bmc with these 0 offset Fuel Vectors and 35 tires?
     
  14. Dec 18, 2019 at 10:49 PM
    #104
    xtyfighterx

    xtyfighterx New Member

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    Mid travel fox 2.5 coilovers 2.0 real shocks shims 295 70 18 trail grapplers pro accessories 32in light bar blacked out bed cover sway bar Moto metal 970 18x9
    1 shim per side is what I did.
    Ya I’ll bet you will have to do the bmc.
     
  15. Jan 13, 2020 at 8:33 AM
    #105
    Skidmarks

    Skidmarks New Member

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    82227770_10221920701874810_2764034342303825920_n.jpg 81875732_10221920702154817_81553594930692096_n.jpg Yes BMC had to be done. One shim each side no lean. I may throw some Fox or radflos on the rear now.
     
    zachzap361 and equin like this.
  16. Apr 8, 2020 at 6:17 AM
    #106
    f.pecan

    f.pecan New Member

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    2007 Tundra DC 5.7L
    Eibach COs and rear AAL., Morimoto XBs, Rough Country 20" Light Bar, Rough County Ditch Lights, CBI ditch brackets, rock lights,
    Doing a coilover install on my 07. I noticed you, as well as the Toytec site instruct to remove the ball joint/spindle assembly. I noticed in some instructionals on youtube, they don't indicate that you need to unbolt the spindle. Do I need to remove the lower spindle bolts?

    I am just worried about popping out my CV joint.
     
  17. Apr 8, 2020 at 2:13 PM
    #107
    equin

    equin Texarican Tundra

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    I separated the lower ball joint assembly, not the upper. The CV axle didn’t pop out on mine, but I kept an eye on it. Re-installing the lower ball joint assembly was tricky and took some time, though. Mind you, I had hand tools and did the job in my apartment parking lot, so it may be easier for someone with better tools and space. Not sure how much easier or more difficult it may be to separate and reinstall the upper ball joint instead, but I’ve heard of others going that route.
     
  18. Apr 9, 2020 at 6:02 AM
    #108
    f.pecan

    f.pecan New Member

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    Ah, I see. There seems like two ways of doing it depending on how you go. I had to get to the UCA to replace it with the SPC adjustable. Just got the coilovers installed last night. It went pretty smooth, minus a few hickups getting the sway bar back in (didn't know you needed to loosen brackets). The upper ball joint did not give me any trouble at all getting back in, thankfully.
     
    equin[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. May 7, 2021 at 10:26 AM
    #109
    Djone27

    Djone27 New Member

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    I know this is reviving an old thread, but wanted to say great write up. Used this just now as a template for my Eibach install. Took right at 4.5 hrs (should've been less).

    Someone earlier asked about tools needed:
    19mm, 22mm, and 24mm sockets
    14mm and 17mm ratcheting wrenches
    1/2" torque wrench
    1/2" ratchet
    Couple GOOD 1/2" extensions (broke 2 Amazon grade wobble extensions)
    Jack
    1 or 2 jack stands
    Bonus: 1/2" impact gun

    Couple things I did different was I didn't need to disconnect the tie rod, didn't remove skid (I have a RCI), and I loosened the camber bolts after fighting with the LCA for way too long.

    First side took 3 hrs. Second 1 hr!
     
    csuviper[OP] likes this.
  20. Sep 8, 2021 at 11:41 PM
    #110
    IgotSR5onit

    IgotSR5onit New Member

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    I know this is an old thread, but I had a couple questions. If im doing UCAs is there enough room to get +3 Toytec 2.5s in from the top or should I do coilovers according to instructions then UCA after they're reinstalled? Also, does anyone have the torque specs?
     
  21. Sep 9, 2021 at 5:15 AM
    #111
    Tundra234

    Tundra234 New Member

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    Alot of them
    You can install the coilovers and then the UCA's. The coilover is easier to install by bringing it in from the bottom. You will see once you start doing it.

    A couple of key notes:

    You do not have to remove the battery or washer fluid tank to get the UCA bolts out. There are a couple of clamps on the wiring harness that you open to move the harness over to give you room. On the drivers side, there is a clamp bolt on the frame that needs to be removed. I can take pictures of these for reference. There is a wrench that you can buy that makes the UCA bolts alot easier to remove. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-8...ywords=gearwrench+85922&qid=1631189946&sr=8-1

    Once you reinstall the UCA's, do not reinstall the ABS wire bracket until the truck is back on the ground. Several of us have had to bend the brackets slightly to put some slack in the wire.
     
    equin likes this.

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