Need a master tech. Most gauges not working.

Hi Guys. New to the sub. I was hoping I could run into somebody with the same problem I am having with my Tundra. I am willing to pay via gift cards or Amazon codes if somebody here can actually help with this.

2008 Tundra 5.7 SR5 4X4

Here is the problem.

The Tach, Speedo, Trans oil temp, Engine oil temp, Engine oil pressure gauge all inoperable. Brake light, ABS light, Airbag lights are on. The outside temperature LCD above the radio is not working. The keyless entry is not working. The odometer displays but it is not counting miles. There is no communication from the OBD port to the ECM via a cheaper scanner as well as techstream. There also seems to be a slight delay in the AC turning on, but that could be me.

On the cluster the fuel gauge and volt meter do work.

I parked the truck on Monday the 4th and everything was fine. Start it up on Tuesday the 5th and this all happened. There wasn't any kind of weather at all that night, just a normal 70F degree night with no rain or storms.

Like every other person in the world, I did a google search and did find that many people were having this same exact problem, including some people here. But of course nobody has ever come back to say what the problem was.

All fuses have been checked. Truck has just 43K miles on it. Truck is in excellent condition, bone stock, and never in a collision.

I am a Mercruiser and Volvo Penta certified technician, and I work on marine engines daily. I can handle any technical information thrown my way. I also have a buddy that can help me who is a Lexus Master technician (But he doesn't do Toyotas) The issue is I just don't know where to start. I have a feeling it's some sort of body control module issue of some sort, but I do not know or was ever trained on Toyota's systems or CAN networks.

Any help would be immensely appreciated

 

Does 4wd work? My truck did the exact same thing while running my light bar and 4wd didn't work, I changed the battery then everything was fine.

 

I'm having the exact same issue as Tundraguy777 on a 2007 5.7L Limited. ABS light on, brake light on, airbag light on. No gauges(speedo, odo, tach, oil, temp.) except voltmeter and fuel. Odometer not counting and no limp mode. No temperature by clock. The Cluster has lights and the gauges sometimes work. The next day it will have the issue and not work. Once in a while I can put it in park and it will start working again. However, I can go down the road and all of a sudden it will quit again. The last few days it's been worse and not working Seems like a short to me? Tundraguy777 did you ever figure out the issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Has anyone figured this out? Out of the blue, my 2011 Tundra started having this same issue... anyone have a solution?

 

I am having same problem on my 2010 tundra crew max no gauges working , just stopped one day any one find the problem ?

 

I figured my problem, it was the Hypertech speedometer recalibrateor that was messing things up, I unplugged it and everything went back to normal.

 

I don't think I have one of those

 

Now lost my blinkers , hazards work still have not found the issue yet

 

Put new gauge cluster in worked for a min then truck died and now nothing working , wont even turn over guess I will have to take it to the dealer

 

Check the main fuse if everything went dead

 

I believe it's J28.

 

I will check all fuses again tomorrow , and the connector in the back looks ok all pins are straight but I will update tomorrow on status

 

Have you guys tried some simple things like testing the battery and alternator? When these things go bad they can cause some weird gremlins like described.

 

Got new battery coming mine was down to 2 volts after sitting a week , put a spare in and pulled the positive cable off when the truck was running and it died .

 

New battery new alternator still having same problems time to take it to toyota

 

Mine ended up being a connector under the steering wheel that had loose wires. It's a white multipin connector under and left of the steering wheel. A local mechanic found the loose wire/wires and now everything works.

 

I ended up have the alternator / blinker fuse not in right , alternator works again , and as far as the gauges the new ones have been working fine with no problems

 

So basically it was a ground issue?
Or was it a short?
I’m going to go out there now to check that out on my truck

 

I had put the fuse back in the wrong spot , had nothing to do with my gauge problem .The new gauges was my fix , just bought some used ones on ebay .

 

Fusible link block/main fuse

 

Driving over to get Chinese food, my buddy hopped out to pick it up, I turned my headlights off so not to shine them into the store and BOOM no more gauges. Even my outside temperature gauge is not working. I am also having a communication issue for my OBD. truck is running just fine but I hate driving without oil pressure or coolant temps. I've checked my alternator and battery both are fine, went through all of the fuses and they are all fine too. I just really don't want to have to rip my dash out to check this j28 what was the actual fix for the people that took it in?

 

Anyone have update on this? My speedo went out yesterday and AC knobs are all non functional. I also noticed the backlight for the AC module went out as well along with my temp reading on the top of dash. 2013 Tundra 4.6L 2wd

 

I'd start with looking on grounds first... should be easy to drop that kick panel on the driver side and go from there...

 

New Tundra owner!

I had this same issue the day that I picked up my truck (used car lot "fixed" it for me "by swapping a fuse") before I took it home the next day. Less than a week later? You guessed it... my whole cluster went out. Tachometer, water temp, tranny temp, outside air temp, etc. did not work. ABS, trac, and VSC lights were on. OBDII scanner did not communicate with the car.

After some digging, I determined that all of these were on the CAN bus. The FSM tells you to check the resistance across the OBD port, and mine was 120 ohms when it should have been 60. This means that I had an open circuit somewhere. The 3 prime suspects are the instrument cluster which is one terminal for the CAN bus (and is the location of J28 that has been mentioned a few times), the other terminal for the CAN bus in the ECM, or the third option is a broken wire.

There is a twisted wire pair that runs from the driver side (junction box 1) to the passenger side (junction box 2). When you disconnect this wire, you're able to isolate the open (or shorted) circuit.

In my case, the issue has resolved itself during the troubleshooting process. The main suspect on my truck is that twisted wire, but it has been working properly for the past few weeks.

Let me know if you would like help troubleshooting the CAN bus on your truck and I'll add some more info.

 

Hey guys I might have a fix!


We finally found a short in the steering angle sensor. As soon as It was unplugged, we got communications back. So It was replaced and I now have a working dash again!
Hopefully this is the common fix here and someone will find this useful.

 

Mine is doing the same thing! If I smack the top of the dash they come back on

 

I just bought my 2014 1794 tundra and my was having fuel guage problems. Replaced pump and sending unit, replaced the wire and then found out it was the instrument cluster. I ordered a used one and replaced it and had the same issue. I did change it at night with my lights on but i just jiggled my wires and the problem was fixed. It could have been the battery running low or the wires. When replacing the sending unit wiring up at the guage i did tape that strand of wires pretty tight so that could have 100 percent put some stress on the wiring bundle so i undid that and now have a perfect working set of guages. Shout out to dashboardinstrumentcluster.com for the part even though i almost popped a blood vessle when i plugged the new one in and had a half working cluster. Good luck troubleshooting yall

 

Mine was the aftermarket speedo re-calibrator. Went bad after boosting

 

Old thread but it’s here so I will respond.

The issue is a short in the communication network (CAN). It’s the wiring that allows all the ECUs to talk to each, allows OBD diagnostic commands to be sent to and read from ECUs, and runs all the gauges with digital signals that were mentioned to not work in the first post of the thread.

The speedometer calibrators most people are saying is the issue makes sense, they tie into the network, read in the speed signal that drives the speedometer and modify it to fit your aftermarket tire size. A faulty unit could short the network and make it or where nothing can communicate