37s with stock gears

I could not imagine driving on 37’s with stock gears I just put tires that are equivalent to 34’s and the truck feels stupid slow now. I’ll be re-gearing eventually cause I miss the peppy tundra she once was.

 

Here is a good website that has good calculators at the bottom for picking gear ratios for larger tire sizes. Also some YouTube videos for picking/understanding limited slip differentials.
https://youtu.be/WeLm7wHvdxQ
https://youtu.be/x40WGUtdaLI

One thing you might want to consider when picking a rear LSD is that certain types could alter the way your TRAC works on snow/ice covered roads.

 

I just ordered 529 gears from boss4x4s since the price was great for their black friday sale that is going on. I still need to get an LSD once I build up funds again. I am interested in the Grip Pro lsd that uses gears instead of clutch packs, but it is not scheduled to be released until mid February. I am currently on 295/70/18 and will be going with 35s at least once these tires are worn out. I also tow a 26 foot camper and currently average between 7-8 mpg. That's part of the reason I went with 529s over 488s, so I have extra towing power

 

I guess I must be jaded.
I went from a slow ass 4cyl Tacoma on 37’s (now 40’s) to my tundra that already had 34’s when I bought it. Still plenty of pep for me but I’d still like to re-gear eventually.

 

Similar story. Had a 02 Tacoma SR5 V6 4x4 w/300,000 on the od. Bought my 12' Tundra w/35's and was shocked with the available power.

 

Erick at State48Overland can get you a smoking deal on gears right now! Smokin. Mention 14buritto if you call

https://state48overland.com/search?q=Tundra+nitro+

 

Boss 4x4 has gears for 969 right now! I can’t bring myself to pull the trigger after already dumping 4K into a truck that only has 2500 miles on it. Lol I needed to chill for awhile

 

4k is alot of beer, I have just over $1500 for my 4.88 gears and Auburn LSD and installed myself. You could pull/install the front/rear differentials and save on labor costs, not very hard to do.

 

yea that was the lift in tires. I think the wife would flip if I bought gears right after haha

 

Call Erick at State48Overland, pretty sure he is cheaper

 

Push the envelope and get a supercharger!
J/K

 

At least there won’t be any money left to take when she files for divorce lmao

 

I bought mine a Highlander to muffle the noise maker but it still works. Lol

 

Just got her one also lol

 

Everyone talking about 5th-6th gears going back and forth..what if you manual shift it? Just wondering..its just how I drive it..thinking of going 37s on 8 inch lift 2019 sport..decisions are rough out here

 

I'm running 37's on factory 430 gears. Mileage has dropped by 4-5mpg Truck actually handles it very well. I do manual shift a lot or drive in tow/haul mode in town.
I have 529's ready I just need time to install them but- if I didn't have them already I might not have bothered with them for a good bit if at all.

 

Rockmup let us know how your mpgs are after..thx

 

Can you do the gears? If not do you know of someone that can? It only takes less than a hour for the rear to remove and a little over two for the front.

 

I sure can, I'm working 90+ hrs a week for the next 8 weeks so I literally don't have the time but I will when this is over.

 

And I thought I worked to much.

 

I haven't been on my tools in a long time but I still have to put in the hrs.

 

Wish I had time to do a thread for DIYers for F/R pumpkin removal.

 

Do you happen to have access to the factory service manual pages for the front and rear carrier assembly sections? I'm building up my tools/knowledge to attempt the gear install myself too but would like to have all the factory specs handy as well!

 

Stop by your local dealership and sweet talk a service rep or mechanic, they can give you a printout of all tools and procedures possibly. As for now I am at work for a bit and don't have access to any of my paperwork for some time.

 

I found a "2007-2010" manual that has all the specs and tools listed, I'm thinking it's gotta be the same as the 2017?

I'm not too concerned about the rear 3rd member, looks simple enough. It's the front clamshell that's got me worried about how easy it is to press in/out bearing races and measure backlash through the drain plug. Any advice there?

 

Ordered the rear elocker to go with the one I have for the front so I'm going to put the new Auburn I have in the market place.
I'll finally have time to install them next month some time. Can't hardly wait.

 

I made up a special lever for the drain plug along with my dial Indicator. I will check if I have any photos of it. One other thing I found hard to find was a old style torque wrench in inch pounds. Also to save alot of time for the rear pumpkin removal I put a small cut in the brake line mount (to pull axles out)so you don't have to go through bleeding/disconnecting brake lines.

 

Now there's a good idea! I will for sure notch those brackets considering I literally just went through bleeding brakes for extended lines.

I got a beam style inch pound torque wrench off of Amazon. Other tools acquired for the job, 12 ton shop press, various big sockets and wheel bearing press sleeves from a few different kits, bearing separator, dial indicator with magnetic base, micrometers, calipers, and my geartrain expert buddy (non automotive) suggested the blue layout fluid rather than the provided yellow goop.

Good thing we're clogging up with stock gears thread....maybe we should start a "how to attempt to regear on your own" thread.

 

I know this is an older thread but wanted to say that when I tried 37s on stock gears, I lost quite a bit of power and braking was substantially diminished. Everyone talks about gear upgrades (which is definitely helpful) but stopping power needs to be addressed.

 

there are 6 piston brake options if you want to spend the money. So far no one I know has thought the upgrade was worth the price. And we run our trucks hard...