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5100 install

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Ol' Salty Dawg, Nov 18, 2019.

  1. Nov 18, 2019 at 2:13 PM
    #1
    Ol' Salty Dawg

    Ol' Salty Dawg [OP] New Member

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    I looked around for a write up and did not find anything. Is there a write up to install front 5100's WITHOUT a spring compressor and maybe pics of how the floorjack is positioned?? Thanks
     
  2. Nov 18, 2019 at 2:48 PM
    #2
    waynescaggs

    waynescaggs No more of that .

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  3. Nov 18, 2019 at 2:59 PM
    #3
    TrooperDC4x4

    TrooperDC4x4 New Member

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    Bilstein 5100 2.5", 1.5"
  4. Nov 18, 2019 at 3:10 PM
    #4
    Zum

    Zum New Member

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  5. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:42 PM
    #5
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 DGAF#1

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    See build link
    Just got mine in and plan on doing the upgrade on my 2015 Sequoia. Definitely renting a compressor though.
    1E778928-39C2-4F42-A50E-D1AF01C53F9A.jpg
     
  6. Nov 19, 2019 at 4:31 AM
    #6
    MacCTD

    MacCTD New Member

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    Why, what about the method in the video not using a compressor concerns you?
     
  7. Nov 19, 2019 at 12:31 PM
    #7
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 DGAF#1

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    See build link
    More work.
     
  8. Nov 19, 2019 at 1:32 PM
    #8
    MacCTD

    MacCTD New Member

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    Just curious, how is it more work? I installed a set of 5100 on my Tundra when I first got it 10 years ago and am going to install a new set in the next couple days, the first set I did in a friends garage with a floor mounted spring compressor to move the springs over, I am going to try the other method for the next set, seems easier and safer to me the spring cannot escape is the force is somehow released quickly.
     
  9. Nov 19, 2019 at 2:18 PM
    #9
    danz75

    danz75 New Member

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    OEM LED headlights, Rigid SAE foglights, Go Rhino RB10 running boards, ARE Classic CX
    FWIW, I've done the spring compressor method 4 times now on previous vehicles and it has always taken more time and the spring compressors have always felt 'weaker' than the coil. Also takes a lot more effort to compress the spring manually alternating each side so that it would be compressed evenly. When I installed my 6112s, I decided to use the no spring compressor method and it went a lot smoother than I anticipated. The compression of the spring also felt a lot more controlled due to the weight of the truck and if the jack slipped, there was no danger of the coil flying off because it was still held in by the shock.
     
  10. Nov 19, 2019 at 4:02 PM
    #10
    Ol' Salty Dawg

    Ol' Salty Dawg [OP] New Member

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    Damn.. mine did not come with boots. Some BS right there lol.
     
  11. Nov 19, 2019 at 4:15 PM
    #11
    Ol' Salty Dawg

    Ol' Salty Dawg [OP] New Member

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    Ok just noticed my shocks have 4 notches for the ring. WTF.20191119_190914.jpg 20191119_190934.jpg
     
  12. Nov 19, 2019 at 4:54 PM
    #12
    Zum

    Zum New Member

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    Quick Google search...on that #
    Notes:Fits 2005-15 Japanese Toyota Hilux pickup and cab chassis models with 4WD and 0.00-2.00 in. lift in the front
    I have know idea if they will,work on ur tundra but mine only have 3 slots....
     
  13. Nov 19, 2019 at 5:03 PM
    #13
    TNTundra7

    TNTundra7 New Member

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    Bilstein 5100s, TRD RSB, TRD Wheels
    Expecting mine to arrive tomorrow. Is there a comprehensive list of what size wrenches and torque specs for everything?
     
  14. Nov 19, 2019 at 5:18 PM
    #14
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Charlottetown, PE, Canada
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    2012 Toyota Sequoia Platinum
    Bilstein 5100 2.3/1.5, TRD sway bars ft/rr, Cooper Tires Discoverer AT3 XLT 295.70.18, Vision Manx 2 18x9 +12, APS side armor steps, TRD-Pro Grill and Bulge, de-chromed, blackout emblems, OEM mirror caps and flares, TRD shift knob, Leather wrapped steering wheel, All weather mats
    Well, I did mine a couple of weeks ago. I was too busy installing it and did not make a video or step by step photo.

    Do not loosen the lower control arm camber bolts! You do not have to. I used a 24" pry bar to lower, the lower control arm. Having an extra person will be very beneficial.


     
  15. Nov 19, 2019 at 5:26 PM
    #15
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Bilstein 5100 2.3/1.5, TRD sway bars ft/rr, Cooper Tires Discoverer AT3 XLT 295.70.18, Vision Manx 2 18x9 +12, APS side armor steps, TRD-Pro Grill and Bulge, de-chromed, blackout emblems, OEM mirror caps and flares, TRD shift knob, Leather wrapped steering wheel, All weather mats
    Ratcheting combination wrench.
    10mm
    12mm
    14mm
    17mm
    19mm
    21mm
    22mm
    6mm Allen Wrench
    Spring compressor
    Impact gun
    Torque wrench to read up to 250lbs
    Red thread lock
    Ratchet
    Pry bar
    Magnet if you do an axle drop kit.
    Jack stands
    2 floor jacks (sway bar re installation)
    Ratcheting tie down (to compress lower and upper control arm together)

    Axle drop is a pain!

    Lower ball joint knuckle 221#
    Upper shock nuts 33#
    Alloy wheels 97#
    Steel Wheels 165# If I remember correctly
    Sway bar link bolt attached to the lower control arm 89#
    Rear shocks 66#
    Front Shocks to lower control arm 144#

    https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...Ef94oioS6CpDYs-4RrxoCNPgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2019
  16. Nov 19, 2019 at 5:37 PM
    #16
    TNTundra7

    TNTundra7 New Member

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    Thanks a bunch. I will likely do the rear ones myself, then have to get some assistance from a buddy to do the rest as I don't have a good space and/or some of the equipment. I think I read that the top nut on the rear shocks is a 14mm with 15 ft/lb torque and the bottom is a 17mm with 70? ft/lbs. Does that sound correct or are these specs included with the kit?
     
  17. Nov 19, 2019 at 5:41 PM
    #17
    rznhales

    rznhales New Member

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    Bilstein 5100's
    For what it’s worth it took mine to big o tire and they installed the springs on my 5100’s for $75 bucks. I dropped them off a lunch and picked them up after work.
     
    texasrho83 likes this.
  18. Nov 19, 2019 at 5:42 PM
    #18
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Bilstein 5100 2.3/1.5, TRD sway bars ft/rr, Cooper Tires Discoverer AT3 XLT 295.70.18, Vision Manx 2 18x9 +12, APS side armor steps, TRD-Pro Grill and Bulge, de-chromed, blackout emblems, OEM mirror caps and flares, TRD shift knob, Leather wrapped steering wheel, All weather mats
    Close enough.

    Ratcheting wrench just makes it a little be easier. Having an extra hand will be a plus! Stay safe!
     
    TNTundra7[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Nov 19, 2019 at 5:44 PM
    #19
    Ol' Salty Dawg

    Ol' Salty Dawg [OP] New Member

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    Yep thanks. They are wrong. Will take back and get the correct ones. FML.
     
    texasrho83 and Zum[QUOTED] like this.
  20. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:47 PM
    #20
    Zum

    Zum New Member

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    The right ones will most likely have the boots as well.
     
    Ol' Salty Dawg[OP] likes this.
  21. Nov 21, 2019 at 6:01 PM
    #21
    MacCTD

    MacCTD New Member

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    Installed 5100s on my 2010 today, replaced a 10 year old set of 5100s, used the no compressor method, worked well, but took some time to get everything apart. The 5100s take a 6mm allen wrench to hold the shaft.
     
    texasrho83 and TNTundra7 like this.
  22. Nov 21, 2019 at 7:43 PM
    #22
    TNTundra7

    TNTundra7 New Member

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    Was wondering about the allen wrench. Going to tackle mine Saturday. Thanks for the info.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2019
  23. Nov 22, 2019 at 1:58 AM
    #23
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Bilstein 5100 2.3/1.5, TRD sway bars ft/rr, Cooper Tires Discoverer AT3 XLT 295.70.18, Vision Manx 2 18x9 +12, APS side armor steps, TRD-Pro Grill and Bulge, de-chromed, blackout emblems, OEM mirror caps and flares, TRD shift knob, Leather wrapped steering wheel, All weather mats
    That's what I forgot to add!
     
  24. Nov 22, 2019 at 7:14 PM
    #24
    TNTundra7

    TNTundra7 New Member

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    Went ahead and installed my rear 5100s tonight. Question regarding the existing pieces from the old shocks. For anyone who has installed these, did you reuse every piece except for the original top nut? Mostly wondering about the cushion retainer on the underside. Pics attached. Some have said to reuse, some say discard. The Bilsteins have a small rectangular metal piece and I didn't know if that takes the place of the original part or you need both. Any advice is appreciated.

    In the last two pictures one is with and one is without. Thanks in advance.

    1025575513.jpg
    694797163.jpg
    1142606629.jpg
     
  25. Nov 23, 2019 at 1:48 AM
    #25
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Keep all of them. Second photo is correct.
     
  26. Nov 23, 2019 at 2:44 AM
    #26
    TNTundra7

    TNTundra7 New Member

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    Thanks!
     
  27. Jan 3, 2020 at 11:01 AM
    #27
    Ol' Salty Dawg

    Ol' Salty Dawg [OP] New Member

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    I'M doing the no compressor method. How much do I compress the LCA with the floor jack?? Just enough to take off pressure??
     
  28. Jan 3, 2020 at 11:36 AM
    #28
    SprinterAE86

    SprinterAE86 New Member

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    Bilstein 5100 2.3/1.5, TRD sway bars ft/rr, Cooper Tires Discoverer AT3 XLT 295.70.18, Vision Manx 2 18x9 +12, APS side armor steps, TRD-Pro Grill and Bulge, de-chromed, blackout emblems, OEM mirror caps and flares, TRD shift knob, Leather wrapped steering wheel, All weather mats
    To do it safely, have more than 1 pair of Jack stands. It will lift your truck as you Jack it up.

    As to how much, a good 3-4" to compress the spring. Rent or borrow a spring compressor tool from auto zone.
     
  29. Jan 4, 2020 at 11:42 AM
    #29
    MacCTD

    MacCTD New Member

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    That is what I did, the reassembly is a little tough as the 5100s are taller than the stock shocks, getting the spring back under the top perch and the shock in the hole takes some patience.
     
  30. Jan 25, 2020 at 12:51 AM
    #30
    Tundy12

    Tundy12 New Member

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    im Installing 5100s and I can’t get the upper ball joint lifted back into place. I’ve tried jacking up the entire hub to line it up but it’s just lifting the entire truck. What am I doing wrong? It seems like the new strut isn’t compressing to allow the bottom portion up to meet the joint. My next attempt was going to be ratchet straps but I feel like it shouldn’t be resisting this much... hoping one of y’all can help because I’ve hit a wall
     

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