ADVICE - Repair or Replace my '03 Tundra

Hoping to get some good advice...

I own a 2003 Tundra 4.7L 2WD SR5, 187,000 miles. Recently no longer my daily driver...just bought a dirt cheap 4-cylinder economy car for my daily commute.

a truck is *central* to my lifestyle...I am an avid dispersed camper and motorcycle rider. I frequently haul around a 2,200 lb travel trailer to remote spots and transport vintage scooters to rallies. I travel all through AZ and CA.



My Tundra has been incredibly solid and I've never had a major repair...but at 17 years old and 187K miles, it need a lot of work and I'm loosing confidence in the truck for long distance trips.

Overall, truck still runs great. The drive train is solid and air blows ice cold.

Here's the list of what needs repaired: (repair estimate ~ $2,500 - $3,000)

180K timing belt replacement w water pump (Toyota factory parts)

Timing belt tensioner and other misc timing belt parts as needed (Toyota factory parts)

Possibly a new radiator (aftermarket Denso)

Thermostat

New hoses and serp belt

transmission flush

Rear diff oil replacement

brake fluid and PS fluid flush

new front brakes

4 new tires

4 wheel alignment

Things I've chosen not to repair:

The rear transmission bearing has a slight weep...even after a brand new Toyota factory bearing was installed a year ago.

The front rack has a slow weep on both sides.

Front stabilizer bar - both bolts broken.

Some frame rust (originally a PA truck) but passed Toyota rust recall inspection 2 years ago

Still has original shocks and struts (truck seems to drive fine)

I'm an AZ school teacher these days and buying a new or late model Tundra or Tacoma is out of the question financially...I'm seeing $25K+ price tags on 5 year old trucks with 75K+.
So it boils down to this - repair the Tundra and take my chances on a 17 year old truck or buy a brand new stripped-out 2019 4-cylinder manual transmission Nissan Frontier S for $16K...zero miles on the odometer and a factory warranty. It has a 3,800 lb tow rating but no factory tow package, and I'm concerned about premature clutch wear towing with a manual. In the end, this is what I can afford.

Would love to get some opinions...repair or replace?

 

I say repair. This truck wont nickel and dime you, statistically speaking. $3k in repairs for that many miles is worth it, and most of that is normal wear or preventative. You'll have spent less money than a new, less capable truck.

I had the same truck and did most of those items at around the same mileage. Sold it at 200k only because I needed a bigger truck.

One thing I cannot comment on is the rust. Born and raised California, no experience with rust.

 

Repair imo. My 2008 has 297000 miles on it. A few major things here and there. Transfer case around 200. Radiator as well around 250. Starter at 280. I’ve replaced the suspension at 290. For the amount of miles per money invested (since my second hand price tag was paid off) is best in class. I’m going to drive mine FOREVER.

 

I say repair. Put another 100,000 on it and see where you’re at from there.

 

Are you mechanically inclined at all? Most of those repairs are straight forward and pretty easy. The hardest thing is the timing belt. Happy Gilmore nailed it. Those are all expected wear parts as well. Your truck is way better than a new 4cyl frontier. You will be kicking yourself the first time you tow with that thing.

 

It's kind of a.toss up between repair or.replace I think. It sounds like your truck has plenty of life left, it's just.time to do some of the more serious maintenance and then you won't have to worry about it again anytime soon.
On the flip side it's 2wd and has frame rust. So you could find another first gen with 4x4 and no frame rust

 

Without pics of the frame rust it's for sure a repair.

Have someone else to the timing belt, tensioners, belt, thermostat, hoses, radiator, tires, and alignment. Cooling system needs drained for the belt so no sense to buy coolant twice.

I'd skip transmission seal and steering rack if it's only a weep and not dripping.

Everything else on your list is more time consuming than difficult and could be accomplished in a couple weekends with a minimum amount of tools.

 

My vote is repair it but don't do a transmission flush. Just replace the fluid. That's just my opinion, but sounds like the repairs would still be easier to swallow than a car payment. I also wouldn't really want to tow 2200lbs plus a scooter with a 4 cylinder unless it was a diesel and/ or had a turbo. I think that 2,000-3,000lb range is probably perfect for the 4.7 tundra.

 

Repair. The cost of ownership in the 1st gen is very low. Especially if you DIY.

I bought my timing belt kit, water pump, radiator and thermostat all Denso from Amazon. Paid less than $400 4 years ago.

Based on my experience around 175-200k the valve cover gasket stated to fail. As well at the center carrier bearing. Still inexpensive parts if you DIY.

 

Like others have said, without seeing the rust, I would definitely say repair. It's just maintenance items. A lot of us have 300k (or close to) and know these things can last upwards of 400-500k as long as that preventative maintenance is done. These trucks are great overall and since this isn't your DD, I would say take the time and save up to have it taken care of. Then, once it's finished you're ready for another 100k which will probably take 10 years since it's no longer a DD. Just keep in mind, that there will be other maintenance items to address over this period but you'll have those same items with a newer vehicle, plus a car payment and more than likely higher insurance payment to accompany that car payment.

 

Thanks for all the great replies.

I had the frame rust inspection performed by Toyota then got a second opinion from my mechanic that I trust. My guy took a ball peen hammer and a punch to the frame and it's solid.

I'm OCD and anxiety prone...lol...not a good combo for an owner of a 17 year old truck That said, the worry is that I'm 3 hours from home in Flagstaff, 10 miles back an unpaved forest service road and the Tundra has a major issue. Dragging the truck and camping trailer out of that spot would be a pain in the a**.

I agree that the majority of the work needed on the truck is maintenance items...it's just that $2,500 - $3,000 in repairs on a truck that's worth maybe $5K is a little hard to swallow.

I also agree that towing with a new 4-cylinder Frontier could be downright stressful...not sure what that would look like pulling a 2,200 lb trailer up a mountainside for 2 hours.

Even as I was writing the forum post, I was leaning towards repair instead of replace. With the truck no longer being my primary vehicle, I'm guessing that I'll drive it maybe 5K - 8K miles a year.

Again, leaning towards repair but I'd welcome any additional comments for or against.

Thanks!

 

I agree with all the other posts. If the frame rust isn't that bad, repair that bad boy and keep enjoying a fantastic truck! You will be kicking yourself if you get rid of it.

 

I got my truck back from my dad with 314k miles on it. Flew down to dfw, turned around and drove it back to Amarillo (350 miles), then drove up to red river to go skiing. Only problem it gave me was one of the coils crapped out coming down the mountain but it made it home. It has NEVER left me stranded and always started for the past two years. Just replace what you need spaced out over the weekends if your diy, and get a little wrench therapy in. It's good for the soul.



Btw, I'm at 318k now and still running strong...

 

I was in your same position a year and a half ago. Never had a problem since the truck was bought new in 2002. She served well towing/hauling all these years, but the front suspension was needing work and so I considered selling and buying brand new.

Both my mechanics said basically, ‘Your truck is just getting started at 150k miles’.

Fast forward a year and a half later, I know I made the right decision to keep her.

I’d echo Festers comments above in post #7. Everyone elses comments are spot on, as well.

Seems you can do some items yourself and the other stuff delegated out.

Visit this build page for the chronology and maybe some inspiration.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...vestment-‘build’-a-chronological-story.46816/

 

Looks like this has been pretty well covered but I agree with the rest here. The body of that truck is in good shape. Unless the frame is bad I would definitely repair. Honestly, you can save a lot of money by doing the majority of the work yourself. The radiator can be replaced with basic hand tools and the fluid changes are extremely easy. There are youtube videos covering most of that work.

 

Most of what you listed is required service & maintenance, with a few actual repairs thrown in. You don't have to do everything at once... I would prioritize the maintenance and essential repairs into groups and get on with it. My 2002 has about 165k, all of the service & maintenance is up to snuff and I would not hesitate to drive it anywhere.

 

I'd repair it without a second thought. I'd pass on the transmission flush, that's a recipe for disaster, and I'd definitely replace the radiator with a heavy duty unit if one's available. It's only a few dollars more, and it'll help if you ever tow in an area with hotter summers. Are those prices from a dealer, or from an independent mechanic? You might shop around and find a good mechanic that can save you a little on the repairs.

 

This is a no-brainer....I would spend $5K on your truck (assuming you confirm your frame is good to go) before I would spend a dime on a 4cyl Nissan Frontier (I don't care what the tow rating is you AND the truck will hate towing 2200lbs with that regularly). After that $5K, since it's not your daily driver, you are looking at another 10 years of towing bliss with not much more than oil changes...

 

This is what I did with the 2007 that I purchased for cheap, I put about $5K into it to bring all of the service, maintenance up to snuff as well as upgrading & modifying the suspension. Money well spent.

 

Those all seem to be time warranted repairs. I feel if you did make those repairs the truck would be good to go for another 100k, its just such a solid drivetrain. It may not have the power of the 5.7 but its longevity is time proven. I drive an 03 Sequoia as a daily driver and I can say, in your shoes, I'd invest in the maintenance/repair costs. The timing belt is not a service that I'd be comfortable doing myself and it is really expensive, especially from the dealer. Had mine done a couple years back so I feel your pain there. You could probably cut your entire price in half if you did the brakes and diff in the driveway. The radiator is easy but since they'll have everything drained out already they may work with that labor price if you bring it up. Additionally, since this is your tow-only vehicle, I don't feel your driving experience will be as pleasant in a 4 cyl manual vehicle. Certainly not over long distances and hills.

 

I was in the same boat with my 03 last year, I went with a 2016 TRD, beside the sentimental value, I really like the new truck! I’d recommend an upgrade, it’s gonna happen at some point and you’ll get good value on your truck, I got 9500 for my truck, 190k, and it was starting to cost me. Good luck !!

 

What are your current 2016 payments? And for how many more years? And then those upcoming repairs needed on the aging ‘16? And then the personal property taxes all added up on a newer trucks worth?

A new truck is nice, but all things need consideration. I’ve put about $6k into mine this past year. The new 2018 Tundra payments were going to be about $600 a month plus $3k personal prop for the year. The math on a solid 1st Gen seems to favor keeping it.

Now if this was a Dodge? SELL!!!

 

I think you missed this part...

 

Awesome advice gentlemen...your replies confirmed my gut feeling...these are bulletproof trucks you can keep for the long haul.

In the past several days I’ve read a lot about owners who are getting 300K to 500K out of 1st gen Tundras without major issues.

The frame is solid...so I’m going to move forward w the repairs and do it in stages...timing belt / water pump first.

I’ll pass on the transmission flush and just do a drain and fill.

Thanks for the respectful, honest feedback. Genuinely appreciated.

Tom

 

Repair and I'd add I got my 2010 in 9/2017 with 160,xxx and it's great.

Just say no to Nissan. I had a new 2006 350Z that needed a new engine (under warranty) at 18k due to a known oil consumption ring issue. Only issue is they gave the new motor a 12k/12 month warranty knowing they did not fix the issue and of course that it would last 18k so when it failed at 18k in 19 months they said too bad so sad.

Is it me or should a sub 38k quality vehicle not need a third engine?

 

Timing sounds high.
800 bucks in missouri for timing and thermostat and water pump at toyota. 1st gen 4x4 done last week. Price he told me.
I would fix it.

 

Great advice, here, and I wholeheartedly agree - repair it for another 100,000 to 200,000 miles plus, for what, $3000 in maintenance costs versus maybe $16,000 for a new model Nissan Frontier with a 4 cylinder engine. You will need the turbo charger if you wish to tow a trailer, and even then that 4 banger with turbo isn't going to last long pulling a trailer up mountain roads. Any idea how long turbos last and the cost of replacing? Turbos use to have a 50,000 mile life span in the late '80s and it has improved a great deal, but I can not imagine a turbo lasting past 150,000 driving on level pavement without load. Toss a trailer and mountain roads in the mix and you will certainly regret going that way. And they are very expensive to purchase, let alone install. I heard turbos going for $4000 is not uncommon on some rigs - ouch!

Then there are the repairs that you will have to pony up to, on that Nissan, to keep it in warranty and good service. Odds are it will be as much or more than what you would have budgeted for the Tundra's maintenance. With the Tundra's reputation for longevity and Nissan's reputation for failing early, it seems to be a no-brainer. Mark my words...Nissan will turn its piss-poor manufacturing around in the next two to three years or leave the American marketplace altogether. As it is, they are finding it near impossible to unload their cars here. That's a nag only a blind man of great faith would put money on.

An anecdotal note on the subject...my personal physician has a late model Frontier and he spends far more time working on it than any other tasks before him short of the office. He likes it when it runs, yet his wife, who also works at the clinic, drives him in on most days because his Frontier is usually sitting on blocks. True story.

 

I can't believe there was never a lawsuit on those motors. They put them in everything and it was not uncommon to burn a quart every 1000 miles. Also very common knowledge among Nissan enthusiasts but they just took it. Crazy

 

As for the frame rust, there’s a lot you can DIY to help there.
When I got my Tundra earlier this year I was told it had been checked by Toyota, was okay and got whatever coating they spray on there. It was far from rust free, but I made sure everything was solid before getting it, knowing I had to do something about it or I’d have trouble down the road.
I feel like Toyota’s treatment was actually a negative, as it had clearly been applied over rust, just leading to more rust and lots of flakey undercoating.
I put the truck up on ramps and spent a few days under it with a scraper, wire brush, and wire brush/cup on a drill. I removed the muffler (was replacing anyway), the skid plate, a few other covers, and the spare, then I scraped, brushed and cleaned everything I could. I followed that with a good coat of a spray rust converter, followed by coats of gloss black paint, then new undercoating, then covered everything with ‘rust check’, making sure to get each coating as deep as possible into all the various crevices, holes, etc. I did the differential too, as it had rust starting all over.
Also greased driveline components while I was under there (not sure if the 2wd has grease zerks on the driveline).
Time will tell how it holds up, but I feel pretty good about it, and other than my time it wasn’t that expensive, probably around $100.

 

I agree w all comments regarding Nissan.
Their quality is all over the board...sometimes decent sometimes horrendous. Did a ton of research and the 4-cylinder Frontier is an exception for Nissan. Extensive research lead me to believe that’s its pretty decent in terms of reliability. Still, nowhere near Toyota.

I’ll second that on the frame cleanup.
I also plan on getting up under the truck and cleaning up as much surface rust as possible.

Again, thanks for all the feedback! Great forum. Will be posting questions as I jump into the Tundra repairs.

T