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05 Tundra 4.0 rough random idle

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by specter208, Nov 9, 2019.

  1. Nov 13, 2019 at 7:56 PM
    #31
    stuckinohio

    stuckinohio MGM Crue

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    Can you try an old OEM coil pack from a different cylinder? If you replaced spark plugs and coil packs, you should be able to rule those out.
    The common denominator seems to be Cylinder 1.
    Have you checked the wiring harness for cylinder 1? connector corrosion? kinks in wire, damage to harness?
    Have you ever replaced your PCV valve? could just pull the hose off the intake manifold real quick and blow into it to see if the check valve still works.
    Have you verified voltage at battery and alternator with the truck off & on? new battery? Alternators don't make much juice at idle.
    Good luck, troubleshooting isn't fun sometimes
     
    specter208[OP] likes this.
  2. Nov 14, 2019 at 8:13 AM
    #32
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Possible injector issue?
     
  3. Nov 14, 2019 at 10:25 AM
    #33
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    That's what I'm thinking. I swapped coils, cleaned MAF and throttle body, new spark plugs and coils(albeit fakes). Truck runs fine when at high load but will either rumble slightly or straight up misfire sometimes at idle speed. Fuel mileage seems bad and the oil level is not going down despite the huge leak on the timing cover.

    I'm gonna try some more tests later today if there is time, God willing.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2019
  4. Nov 14, 2019 at 11:44 AM
    #34
    Professional Hand Model

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    Run some SeaFoam in your gas tank. Might clean a clog up for cheap. Can’t hurt. Read tons of reviews on Big Gurrl (mostly Corolla high miles owners) with similar problem and the SeaFoam in gas cured it.

    Or, maybe time for 12 Hole Injectors!
     
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  5. Nov 14, 2019 at 12:10 PM
    #35
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty The Desert rat, 6 lug enthusiast

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    I’m wondering what cc injector is in the 4.0l, and if the injectors Keith sells would work on the 4.0. My 4runner could use some of that action if they are compatible!
     
  6. Nov 14, 2019 at 12:17 PM
    #36
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Only one way to find out. Give him a call.
     
  7. Nov 14, 2019 at 4:25 PM
    #37
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    Truck won't even crank now. Battery only reads 5.5v.


    Ok, I jumped, swapped an old coil from a different cylinder and still missing on cylinder 1. Fuel injection volume only read 0.106ml for cylinder 1 at idle, engine is rumbling right now.

    I idled for about 15 min. Engine just died by itself and dash lights are very dim and won't crank. Techstream was reading about 14v with the engine running. Was running engine at about 2500rpms for about 60 seconds to test fuel injection and engine just died. I also heard a high pitched grinding noise.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2019
  8. Nov 18, 2019 at 4:34 PM
    #38
    SeaBass8

    SeaBass8 New Member

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    Random unrelated question... I have the same truck, 2005 4.0L 6M/T. How's your shifter? My shift level is sloppy as shit. Just curious if this is a common problem or just mine. Thanks Hope you sort out your misfire issue.
     
  9. Nov 18, 2019 at 5:15 PM
    #39
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    My shift lever isn't sloppy but the centering spring for gear 1-4 is getting a little weak. Also I think I need to bet my shifter bushing replaced because sometimes reverse pops out of gear.
     
  10. Nov 18, 2019 at 5:27 PM
    #40
    Professional Hand Model

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    Whoa! Some 1st Gen Tundra stick shifters up in here.
     
    specter208[OP] and FrenchToasty like this.
  11. Nov 19, 2019 at 4:41 AM
    #41
    SeaBass8

    SeaBass8 New Member

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    I replaced my shifter bushings. Very easy to do. Purchased from Core Shifters online.
    The shift lever itself is two-piece so I will need to take mine off again and see if there is a way to tighten them up.
    Thanks for your response
     
    specter208[OP] likes this.
  12. Nov 21, 2019 at 4:37 PM
    #42
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    Does anyone have he part number for the clutch housing cover. It's the panel that covers up the inspection port and the slave cylinder. I'm going to replace the battery because I heard low battery voltage can cause potential misfires.
     
  13. Nov 28, 2019 at 5:44 PM
    #43
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    I did another test today. I swapped Cylinder 1 and 2 fuel injectors. Same issue persists, cylinder 1 still has random misfires. I noticed that there was a nut missing on the valve cover close to cylinder 1 and also the large vacuum hose coming out of the bank 1 valve cover has a crack where the metal clamp squeezes.
     
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  14. Nov 28, 2019 at 6:54 PM
    #44
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    Ok. With this new info and the attempted thread jack, replace the battery and report back. It's a long shot, but might work. If not you have a wiring issue somewhere.
     
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  15. Nov 29, 2019 at 6:13 AM
    #45
    Professional Hand Model

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    Probs all the VC nuts need a snugging. Cut the hose short at the crack and reconnect.
     
  16. Nov 29, 2019 at 10:06 AM
    #46
    SeaBass8

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    Sorry, I wasn't trying to hi-jack. Just wanted to get the opinion of a fellow manual shift owner... Not too many 6 speed owners.

    My 2 cents on your misfire... It has to be one of three things, Fuel, Spark or Compression. Perhaps a compression test?
     
    deke1691 likes this.
  17. Nov 29, 2019 at 11:11 AM
    #47
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    I'm going to check compression soon. Hope it's not a serious issue. It's an 05 with 150k miles 4.0. I got the truck about 3 m the ago. The issue got proggesively worse. started rumbling very slightly, then it started happening more frequently, now it will shake really hard intermittently.
     
  18. Dec 15, 2019 at 2:00 PM
    #48
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    Hi guys, it's been a while but I finally had time today to do a compression test today. With engine at operating temp and all spark plugs, coils, c/open relay removed and opened the throttle all the way I got these pressures. I did the test in about 20 minutes. Seem normal to me. Cylinder 1 in particular read 100psi on first revolution, then 135psi on the second revolution and then I didn't check again until after 5 more revs which read 175psi.

    Cylinders
    #1 175psi
    #3 160psi
    #5 165psi

    #2 165psi
    #4 160psi
    #6 165psi

    My original title was rough random idle. It should re-titled intermittent misfire.
     
  19. Jan 8, 2020 at 4:14 AM
    #49
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    Hi guys, I'v done compression check and seems to be good in all cylinders. Ive done a 65mile drive and truck drives good on the freeway. Will intermittently misfire at idle or low speeds. I've filled the tank with a 5.25oz Lucas upper cylinder and fuel injector treatment. How many miles should I run the truck for the liquid tune to do its thing? Thanks
     
  20. Jan 8, 2020 at 4:50 AM
    #50
    bmf4069

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    However long it needs. If it's really gunked up it could be the full tank, or even need another bottle. Or it might not do anything at all. Keep an eye on it and let us know.
     
  21. Jan 8, 2020 at 4:57 AM
    #51
    Professional Hand Model

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    Is it running any better since the additives? Such as: Is the misfire better at idle/slow speed?
     
  22. Jan 8, 2020 at 5:07 AM
    #52
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    Feels the same as before the additives. The truck has always ran better on highway. It started as a rough idle, then it turned into an intermittent misfire (ONLY at idle or low speed). Been happening for atleast 300 miles. I've only had truck for 3-4 months.
     
  23. Jan 16, 2020 at 4:24 PM
    #53
    specter208

    specter208 [OP] New Member

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    Hi guys @bmf4069 @stuckinohio @SouthPaw @FrenchToasty

    Took it to a local shop. Told me that all bank 1 cylinders have abnormal fuel trims with most failures being on cylinder 1. Since misfire is intermittent and plugs, coils, plus fuel injectors were swapped with no improvement. He hooked up a vacuum gauge and there is signs of vacuum leak somewhere. Most probable cause is a bad valve or a problem with the vvt-I not functioning properly.
     
  24. Jan 16, 2020 at 4:27 PM
    #54
    Professional Hand Model

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    Glad you are getting somewhere with a solution.
     
  25. Jan 16, 2020 at 7:36 PM
    #55
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Interesting findings.

    I haven’t dug that far into the 4.0L, but I do recall them having head gasket issues. Back when I was service writing, I remember a nice lady coming in with her ‘07ish 4Runner with a slight misfire. We swapped plugs/coils with no improvement. We then did a sniffer test (sniffing the coolant reservoir for exhaust fumes) and it showed positive for fumes being present in the coolant system.

    It did end up being a bad head gasket and IIRC, it was an 18+ hour job. Hopefully your story is different but you may want to mention it to your mechanic.
     
  26. Jan 17, 2020 at 3:42 AM
    #56
    zombie

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    If you have a first Gen. Start keeping ignition coils in your storage box. The engine will do just that, it will act up first and intermittently until the coil actually goes bad, then it will throw a code. Coils are free at most pick and pull junk yards. Or go to Rock Auto and get Denso. Plus side is they are so easy to replace. If you don't have a scan tool and there you are on the side of the road because of a little misfire, then as it's running disconnect each coil one at a time. The one that does not make the truck run even worse will be the Bad coil. All you need is a 10mm socket wrench. This is very good advice, please take it. :amen:
     
  27. Jan 17, 2020 at 4:02 AM
    #57
    zombie

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    Of course reading more into this.........first off you dont hook a vacuum gauge to an engine to find a vacuum leak, what it does tell you is if there is something mechanically wrong. If the needle sits in one spot smoothly your good. If needle moves around, tear engine down. Then there is a engine balance test to do. This simple test that uses a gauge and compressed air will tell me if you have bad piston rings, it will tell me if you have a bad intake or exhaust valve. It will tell me you have a head gasket issue. It only take less than an hour to do. There are NO Liquid fixes. You want to clean your fuel injectors, then take it on the hi-way in second gear and red line the bastard. AND better make sure your timing belt is good before you do so. With that oil leak I would check that first. Did your timing belt jump a tooth because of that? Good question. Also, Timing covers dont leak oil. It what's behind it. Fix the obvious first.
     
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  28. Jan 17, 2020 at 4:09 AM
    #58
    Professional Hand Model

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    I have some still working coil packs for sale in the ‘For Sale Section’ of this website for over a year now. These are for back ups if anyone is interested.
     
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  29. Jan 17, 2020 at 6:25 AM
    #59
    bmf4069

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    I'm pretty sure a vac leak wont cause misfires. But, it can jack with idle. A good way to check is get a fog machine and hook it into your intake system and see where it comes out. Another way, albeit slightly dangerous, is take starting fluid and spray it in small bursts around vac line connections while idling. Any change in idle will indicate a leak.
     
  30. Jan 18, 2020 at 6:43 AM
    #60
    zombie

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    I like the dangerous way myself, works good around intake manifolds to make sure the gasket isn't leaking. A rubber hose to your ear is also a good tool to pinpoint the noise from a vacuum leak or exhaust noise as well.
     

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