What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Olive will look nice. @ethan1911 olive color?

 

Yeah something like that, I think their army green is close to the color of my ammo cans. It says it's a federal spec WW2 green.

Also considered gray but then i would have to paint my ammo cans too.

 

So it looks like you used 4 metal roofing screws on the part that attaches to the inside bed. And 5 bolts for the part that attaches to the tail gate? Thanks so much for this idea, im on Amazon right now, haha

Oh and did you grab that simpson right angle from a local home depot or something?

 

Realizing that I will have to mount a different way since I have a swingcase and thats where it swings out so I'm still going to try for the gap between the tailgate and truck bed body. There is enough room I believe if you use those ball stud screw instead of the thick plate since they wouldn't stick out so far.

 

Good on ya. The 2006 has a taller gate so that may be allowable in your case. The 2002 doesn’t have the vertical room to work it and on top of that the crevice is tight. Show us your skills!

FYI. Lots of weighted forces in action on those studs so you should take care to have some type of backing plate(s) distributing the load. Otherwise, stuff will be ripping out of the thin metal gate wall fast.

 

Gray would be sweet.

 

Yes on the metal screws. Those are my schmancy screws I use on everything on the truck (bed liner, skid plate, missing grommets, etc).

Yes on the bolts. 5 total 1/4” x 1.5” long. You could go shorter. I wasn’t sure so went longer. You’ll need 5 fender washers and double sided tape to hold them and then nut it. I used the provided thread locker from the gate assist package.

Yes on the Simpson. Orangelo Big Box.

 

Ordered up some steering rack bushings. Figure I can wrestle with installing these all day this coming Tuesday. Any smart pointer tips from anyone to save some installation time aggravation and knuckle skinning?

@Mr. Pink gave me the idea. Reviews are all great on these except for the dopes who install them incorrectly. Everyone says its night and day feeling after the install. Went with red instead of black. Looked under at the rack while doing the steering turns and the OEM bushings seem firm and not moving. The steering has a random mushy feel occasionally and sounds like this may be the fix per the many 1st Gen Tundra reviewers.

Install Success ratio 50/50.

Hoping to not have to remove anything other than just the rack bolts/bushings and front sway bar links/bolt for access. Tricks tips appreciated.

 

I don't think I removed anything with the sway bar.

I jacked the front end up enough to get most of the weight off of the wheels and changed them out. It's been a couple years but I don't remember it taking more than an hour.

 

Not much to it, I removed the outter tie rods just to make the installation a little easier. I also had to burn the far left (driver side) bushing a bit to get it to pop out. For the center mount remove bolt from top, not the nut from bottom. Don't forget the lube I was told prothane should be the only type of lube used for poly bushings and then torque to spec.
https://youtu.be/YywcR0E9bM4
Timmy has awesome how to vids
Good luck

 

@Professional Hand Model hope this link works, good write up. The center bolt is a pain, I relived that pain when I swapped my lower control arms. Getting the old bushings out is a wrestling match for sure but it's not a bad job.

 

I've been told it's good to lube the new poly bushings so they don't squeak.

 

Lube with prothane

 

I finally change the oil, it's been about a year so I figured it's due. I dropped the trans pan and changed the filter. It still looked new. Still shifts rough from 1st to 2nd. Greased all the zerks on the driveshaft. They crackled when I put the new stuff in. Black grease came out. Eww.


Flexin...


6.5 quarts.


Looks clean still.


Metal bits on the magnets.









What isn't shown is the 4 layers of gaskets I had to scrape off and the driveshaft. And the asshole who designed the dipstick support bracket can rot in hell. Who bolts something on the bottom of the head? I couldn't get it back on. It was getting cold and I was about a 12 pack in so I gave up. Next up is front diff juice change and getting the rear bearings corrected.

 

Pan looks really clean. Gives me hope mine is the same. 4 layers of gaskets? Was a pan drop done before? I heard the OEM gasket is a bear to remove.

What transmission fluid are you using since Marbles purchased all the last known quantities in the world of the ‘pure stuff’?

 

Purchased the $13 (8oz) tub from Big Gurrl as it wasn’t included with the bushings kit already purchased. Thanks for the heads up everyone.

 

Yeah, there was black, orange, and silver rtv under a cork gasket. I scraped off what I could and used the rubber gasket that came with the filter. Used about 4 quarts of this:

 

Anybody have a picture of these side view mirrors screws needed to tighten up the driver side jangle?

 

I see you used 10w-30 for your motor oil. Is that due to Texas heat?

 

The screws under the mirror? They’re at the fold joint under it. Super easy to ge to.


If they’re like my tacoma

 

Cool. I assume just fold the mirror in and to access said screws. Tighten. Then fold back out?

 

Should be able to do it without even folding. If I were home id go check the truck

 

Yeah, it doesn't get too cold here, and the manual said it's ok from 0 and up.

 

10w30 can help slow leaks too

 

Don't even need to fold it. Just look under the mirror. For me, I only had to tighten 1 and it solved the problem. Hardest part was finding the right size torx bit.

 

Thanks. I posted up here just a little while ago.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/mirror-vibration-shakes.56746/

 

So this happened yesterday...been looking for a cap for awhile...never can find the right color....came across a guy selling the same truck as mine but with a color matched A.R.E cap...so I took a shot and offered him $500 and he said yes. It's a $2k camper new. Front and side windows open (sides with screens), interior is carpeted and roof is insulated, and a wired interior light. Just need to get a key for it and clean it up a bit. Very happy with this find!


Bought one of these and damn, these magnets are hella STRONG and the box is VERY sturdy. No way this thing is coming off the frame. It is very deep but not very long. It will fit a regular key and fob or a flip key/fob combo (what I put in there) with room to spare, but it won't fit a straight key with the fob built into it (what I have on my key chain), it's too long.

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/282309033775

 

Whats this next to the 2002 Tundra Throttle body and can it be taken apart for servicing?

@empty_lord or anyone else who want to chime in.

 

I had to loosen my Mirror from the inside(3 10mils) so I could get to the torx screw closest to the door panel, my hands weren’t dainty enough to get in there

 

That is a tough one to access. I didn’t go your route and remove the entire assy to get to that one as just tightening the others seemed to do the trick and fixed the wobbles.