Help with Tapping Noise!!

I actually pulled some slightly different numbers from the service manual. Maybe the 06 is different? Either way, he is below the minimum level on 6/8 cylinders.

Better yet. Get you money back and find another mechanic. It seems like the rebuilt engine he sourced is not up to par.

 

From my 2005-2006 service manual...



Is it possible your timing belt is like a singe tooth off?

 

If your source is a Toyota SRM, then yes, it is possible that different years of same engine do have different compression pressures and HP ratings. But, it is clear there is not a material difference in the numbers from two different sources. Even if the lower numbers do apply, the difference between cylinders still exceeds specs for most of the cylinders. Unfortunately, the engine would be marginally acceptable to "soldier on for awhile".

I would only keep the mechanic involved until the issue is resolved in order to (1) try to return the used engine to the seller for credit as "misrepresented" (even losing valuable parts in the process), (2) negotiating the total credit of any labor $$$ expended in this used engine fiasco, or (3) free installation of the remanufactured engine.

This "mechanic" has bs for a resume; imo, he has never worked for any Toyota/Lexus dealer in his life, or it sure wasn't as a technician. If he doesn't accept responsibility for his screw-up, I would drop him like a hot rock, and possibly look at other legal means of redress.

 

Possibly. Timing belt "off a tooth(s))" manifests first as running hot, then as very hard starting, and finally, no start at all. At some point, it probably affects compression pressure as well.

But, if the timing belt is "off a tooth", then this "mechanic" has made the same mistake at least twice. I suspect bad timing is what caused the original problem (old timing belt?), then again after the top-end rebuild, and possibly on the used engine as well.

 

My understanding is a timing belt being even a tooth off will affect compression immediately...the timing is by definition off...so the valves will not be completely closed (or open) when they are supposed to be. You cannot get a correct compression reading on an engine if the timing is not accurate. I had a 2003 Tacoma with the 3.4 that would start fine, idled fine and would drive fine at low speeds. It never got hot. Never threw a code (which I thought was crazy, but I digress). The only obvious indication was the lack of power and increasingly loud howl coming from the intake as the RPMS got above 3000 rpm. I drove it like this longer than I should have (a couple hundred miles) because I had no choice or time. I had just moved, lost my garage and sold most of my tools (long story) and had NO spare time at this stage of my life so I took it to a local "Toyota truck specialist" who came highly recommended and who was (allegedly) a former Toyota dealer tech. He diagnosed it as a disintegrating CC that was blocking the exhaust...not a terrible guess...but not right since I replaced the CC ($800 later) and still had the issue. He then told me it must have sucked something in the intake and bent some valves and that the engine was probably toast, but he would do a compression test (and charge me) if I liked. At this point I didn't trust him and took it somewhere else. The next mechanic was also highly recommended. He thought it was ignition related, so he replaced the MAF, said it was not great, but better. I went and test drove it...it was no better. I told him to take the new MAF out (not getting charged $350 for that!) and put the old one back in and sit tight. I spent literally 20 minutes on the internet (yea, I know, shoulda done that before I took it to the first mechanic...never again will I not do that...and it was completely out of character for me due to domestic circumstances) and was convinced the timing belt had jumped a tooth (or 3), so I told the mechanic to replace the timing belt/wp (it only had 70K miles on it). He said he would at my direction somewhat reluctantly (he said he'd never seen a vehicle jump timing), but if that didn't fix the problem, it would still be $700 for the labor and parts. He did, and voila, purred like a kitten.

Agreed...finding a mechanic you trust is as good as gold if you can't do the work yourself...glad I ultimately found one (no, not either of the two above).

 

Nice bit of sleuthing! Kept yourself from throwing more money away, and enduring big headaches.

Unfortunately, my "jumped a tooth" experience was pre-internet on a 22RE. I tried everything I knew, and finally threw in the towel after replacing the ECM with a junk yard version, and it still made no difference. Finally, took it to a moon-lighting Toyota technician who rebuilt the entire engine ($$$$).

By the time it would not start at all, it had evidently jumped enough teeth that the pistons had gotten into the valves. I figured out later that I precipitated the problem by attempting to do a down-hill, rolling start with a discharged battery. Engine speed must be high enough for adequate oil pressure to actuate the timing belt tensioner. Without oil pressure, the timing belt CAN jump a tooth if there is slack in the belt (tensioner isn't doing it's job). If it's an old belt, it may then have stretched enough to continue jumping teeth.

In the OPs case, it's doubtful that a malfunctioning tensioner caused the problem on BOTH the original AND used engines.

 

A 'mechanic' who as never seen a vehicle jump timing is not much of a mechanic. Jumping timing is a pretty common issue.

 

Any update @Ryedog12 ?

 

nothing yet. I actually just got brand new Oxygen sensors in the mail today. Going to put those in this weekend hopefully. Those help out as I’m not 100% convinced it’s timing related. Maybe just wishful thinking. It’s been sitting for a while Not being driven and it’s cold here, the other day it was a little hard to start, not sure if it was just the temperature or what.

I’m just hoping that wasn’t the first sign of what @JohnLakeman said up top. Hard starts then no starting at all cause by bad timing. We shall see.

 

I keep going back to that last compression test you did. Of which the results were not good. If you can't challenge the mechanic to make it right for you, it may be time to cut ties with this one. Maybe trade it in on another one.

 

@FirstGenVol I am concerned with that also. However, I haven’t had time to properly break it in so maybe the numbers are a bit off till things seal up? I have thought about trading it in but need to get it running decent to try and get full value for it. I might even try another shop, another engine.

 

How's the truck look overall? Is the body and interior in good shape? Maybe it's worth saving.

 

Hard to believe this is still an on going issue. Sorry to hear you are still in the crapper.

Toyota has very tight tolerances which can be an issue with many mechanics who work on American cars. Try and get it running and cut your losses, this is the same advise I gave my wife's son. He has a 2008 Jeep Wrangler and it just won't stay on the road.

 

Holy cow I think that did it. Replaced all 4 oxygen sensors with brand new Densos. It was pricy but this thing is smooth as butter now. No strong fuel smell, Idles perfect, you can barely tell it’s on and the misfire is gone too. I drove it around the neighborhood and it’s perfect. I’ll take it on a longer drive on the highway soon and report back. It’s looking good.

As for the condition of the truck. It’s pretty immaculate. Super awesome condition, no rust, straight lines all around and clean interior. It’s def worth saving.

 

You got me thinking about my 02 sensors now lol

 

Mine looked like crap

 

And no CEL?

 

I'm still baffled by the low compression but if you say it's running great then I believe you. It's ridiculous that your mechanic couldn't get it running right but you can. Time to find another mechanic.

 

Nope. I got those two codes that I was rich in both banks as mentioned before. I had cleared them a long time ago and they never came back. No CELs as of yet fingers crossed.

it’s weird, thought if the o2s were not reading the right voltage I would have had a CEL a long time ago which is why it was so frustrating trying to track this crap down.

 

I may be wrong on this but those 02 sensors have a service life of about 100,000 miles. I would have guessed it would throw a code if the CPU was getting funky readings

 

Nice! New sensors are all talking the same language now. ECU adjusting to them.