What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I live in South Florida where the temp is still in the 80's and the rocks are for decoration. 2wd and 35psi works just fine

 

I've been wanting to do this myself. Let me know if you need some brackets made. If you figure it out and cover shipping I'd figure it a good trade for making some angles or what not. If you get a template or a drawing of what you need I can take it from there. Either way I'm sure I'll learn from your attempt. I do miss dropping the tailgate on my Titan and having it slowly drop.

 

This is why I enjoy this forum so much. Seems like a great idea! I definitely am looking forward to how it works out for you, I'd like to do the same for my tailgate!

 

She got my Dick Cepek pumped up

 

Nice but this one is only to 60 psi. They have 100 psi & 200 psi units. Pretty easy to find 90 psi tires in your life...

 

There is an easier fix to cut or ground out a wire (I forget) to permanately disable the light

 

Thats a nice offer. Thank you. I have what I think I need from the Big Box. Maybe once I go through the learning curve with success I’ll have a cleaner/better bracket solution. Chances are that I just leave it the way it is, though.

Strut/posts to be delivered by tomorrow. Probs will attack it Mon/Tuesday this coming week and will know in 2-3 hours time how it will go.

 

A clue to DRL light gremlins?

 

Here is jumper light mod trick performed last year after I shorted the pass side personal light switch in a hand model move gone bad.

Figured the driver switch still works so why not jump it? One push (driver side only) now illuminates both personal lights. Another benefit (or drawback) is the overhead dome light illuminates at the same time. I consider it a benefit.

2002 model

 

I do and don't like this mod. My wife always seems to find a reason to turn her map light on while I'm driving, and it obviously only happens at night, so if they were wired to turn on together than I would be blinded. Maybe I'm the only one with bad night vision but because of it, I DON'T approve this mod. lol

 

The dome light can always be switched OFF and it won’t activate.

 

I just went on a 500 mile round trip to S. Fl and back (North Tampa) and wanted to post a little feedback.
Overall, the truck ran well which is a plus. I averaged around 13.5-14mpg at 70-75mph.

Someone asked me about the Atoto after my installation and I didn't have much time with it so I put some experience over the last 1k miles I've driven with it below. Also, there's a question/complaint down there as well that I am hoping you guys can help with.

Atoto A6 Pro review - I hotspot my phone for the head unit to have service and works great for me

• Google maps - This is obviously the only way to go. I wish my LS460 used Google Maps. Worked flawlessly entire trip.
• Back up camera - Imo, this is a MUST have. The Atoto branded back up camera worked fine. Decent clarity and usually no lag. I did notice some lag one time when the sun was glaring towards it one morning but only that one time so I will keep an eye on that.
• Torque App/OBD II monitor - Such a cheap/easy upgrade to this head unit. It provides real-time feedback as you may know but will also let you diagnosis a CEL while driving. I have replaced the cats and all o2 sensors and since put around 300 miles on them. Well, during this trip the CEL came on for a P0430. The torque app, while driving, identified the code and let me clear it instantly. This was very exciting and I know the app has a ton of features that I haven't even had an opportunity to identify yet.
• Youtube! - I was driving by myself so I pretty much stopped, grabbed semi-healthy food and sat in the truck to eat watching Youtube. Just a great convenience over using my phone.
• Overall - I really think this is an amazing head unit for $260. There are some negatives such as the precision of the touchscreen seems a LITTLE off around the edges. The physical buttons feel kind of cheap and sometimes when I press the volume button rapidly to turn it down, it doesn't register every press but for what this thing offers, I am very glad I went this route versus a traditional head unit.

Now for my truck complaint. I have a limited with leather seats/captain chairs and honestly, these things are so uncomfortable. I feel my 04 LX470 captain chairs are WAY better. I drive the LX470 every year for vacation (usually 600 miles one way) and not once does my back hurt but after 2hrs in the Tundra, back was bothering me. I did adjust the lumbar support but just not on par with the LX470 chairs. So, my question has anyone put 100 series Land Cruiser/LX470 seats in their tundra??? If not, is there anything that can be done to increase the comfort of these seats?

Oh and sorry, no pics for this post....

 

I was shopping for seats for my last tundra and I was wondering if the lx470 seats would fit. I think you can swap out the rails and bolt up but I haven't been able to get my hands on set to check. I think the gx470/460 would work also

 

One way to find out...

 

I'd be willing to wager the LX470 or Land Cruiser seats bolt in with little to no effort.

 

I'd be willing to bet that anybody with some time, a drill, and possibly a welder, could figure it out. I'd be willing try if I didn't have side air bags and a decent deal on seats. Sadly both issues will keep me looking to get some seat covers.

 

Cool.

@imDementeD try adding some washers under your front seat rails to tilt the seat bottom rearwards. I did this and it makes for comfort. Also, there are some seat covers out there that have built in lumbar, but can’t vouch for them as I still have great condition original captains chairs in cloth (SR5).

 

Anything is possible with the right tools, time, and money.

Just check out the Pyramids.

 

Aliens clearly built those with witch craft

 

Hahaha no need to tell me. I do all sorts of silly things with a little time and some of the right tools.

Speaking of which... I think I've got myself 80% convinced into linking the back of my truck. New springs that should do what I want are $1,000-$1600 plus u bolts and I'll probably have to do other work like shackles and maybe shackle hangers. I'm estimating the joints and materials to link are going to be sub $1,000 and then I can probably get away with poly bumps stops and used coilovers for a under $800. The problem is that I already have 12" bypass shocks. Oh well maybe I can make a 14" coilover and a 12" bypass combo work. So that's what I did to my first gen today, I thought about cutting it more.

 

Tire deflator? I don't see one..

 

The electric seats on the limited can adjust lumbar and the seat bottom tilt

 

Shmancy!

 

I think the most if not all sequoias seats do as well. Food for thought

 

Thats good info. Never had a problem with my seats except that tilt washer thing which helped. I’ll be keeping what I have.

 

Used it to bring my newest purchases engine to work. And proceeded to swap said engine into said car



And sold the car. It leaves next week... sooo more tundra mod money

 

I know it's what you do, but I have to admit those lumps look a bit intimidating.

 

These things come apart so easy. Thing came apart great for 260k