Another audio upgrade

hey Guys! Spent a lot of time reading and reading. Jealous of the crew max systems but knew going in the dc work truck would need a bit extra effort. I can’t fit a box under or behind the back seat.

This is my thought as much as I dislike my options. Upgrade the factory amp. ********* amp possibly with the pnp harness. Or just getting these 2 below and installing an amp of my choice.

Then installing a loc to get rca’ jacks to an under seat sub. Yes the cheap all in one amp/sub combos on Amazon or eBay.

Being limited in space I think this is the best option but I’m open for suggestions.

 

Jbl or non jbl?

 

I'm pretty sure a lot of DC guys have installed subs..before you spend a dime with *********. Get in touch with James at tech12volts , give him and email or call. He is the tundra audio guru and will get you better stuff and better prices

 

Avoid *********.

 

Knew i forgot something. Non jbl

 

I did send an email. He said the subs or sub won’t fit behind the back seat. That ruins my original plans. That’s sort of why I’m stuck with a cheap sub under the driver seat

 

It’s sad to hear all the disappointment with them. I own an online biz myself and it’s a hell of a lot of work keeping up. Some of the stories on the other hand are just unacceptable.

 

This! his email is tech12volt@gmail.com

Let him know what kind of music you listen to and your budget and he will set you up. please dont use that loc you posted a picture of. I'd give it a day before it craps out.

 

Thank you, we did speak though. His exact reply to my message was a sub won’t fit in a DC unless it’s under the seat which is the last thing I can do. Unless I get some slamming door speakers I’m stuck with needing a cheapo sub/amp combo. I don’t need anything fancy just need to rid the garbage system in the new truck.

 

I upgraded the doors and dash speakers with 2 ohm speakers and put a kenwood ksc-sw11 under the passenger seat. It won’t blow the doors off or rattle the windows but it sounds MUCH better and is a lot cheaper. I will eventually add an amp but I am happy for now

 

I had a custom sub box made for when I had a 2013 DC. I still have it, I wish it fit in the crew

 

I’m also debating on doing this. My first car was a 92 integra with 2- Kenwood 8’s. That thing used to hit harder than most quality systems I have heard. I could fit a few 8’s easily.

 

What 2 ohm speakers did you choose and do you mind sharing where you got them from??

I have a 2007 CrewMAX that I just acquired with the JBL system and some speakers need replacing due to cone rattle. I know i need 2 ohm speakers.

 

Front door = Memphis audio

$137 prxs69 6"x9" 50W RMS 2-way shallow mount coaxial speakers

prxs69 (2 ohm)
Rear door = jbl 6500c (3 ohm)
Front dash =

$60 jbl gx302 3-1/2" 75W 2-way GX series coaxial car audio loudspeakers

jbl gx302 (2.2 ohms)

They sound MUCH better than stock especially with the kenwood sub. The volume is still an issue going down the interstate with the windows down but I can always add an amp later if that bothers me (it doesn’t yet) - I just roll up the windows and use the a/c if that’s the case.

 

With the options available I think I’m going with *********. 4 channel amp, plug and play adapter, amp rack and the door speakers. It’s around 600 complete.

With under the back seat stuffed with tools I’m trying to find a shallow sub box that fits behind the back seat or just going below the driver seat.

 

I need a bit of advice. Actually had everything picked out and ready to order kicker 400x4, kicker 6.5’s and just got in a Kenwood under seat self powered sub. Then decided to change my mind again. Back to taco tunes.

The question I have is about high level inputs or installing a loc. I guess opinions on the best way to get signal to the sub. I can tap the speaker input/output on the pnp harness and run speaker wires to the new sub or install a loc and get the signal by rca’s. I really want to install a second sub so a splitter will be needed. Should I plug in a loc before or after the amp or just run to the high level inputs? Thanks you!

 

Reasons why I can’t do much more than the self powered Kenwood.






Seat folds perfectly


Good thing is it fits. Bad thing is it probably won’t do much for deep low bass. I’d say it’s more of a mid. The reviews are amazing Though. Worth a shot for $150

 

I am wanting to upgrade front dash speakers.
With your set up did you have any issues fitting using the GX302s?
Thanks.

 

Only issue is that you have to install bass blockers. And both mounting holes don’t line up. I screwed in one side and the used a zip tie to secure the other side. Absolutely no issues at all. One of the most noticeable upgrades to the sound system actually.

 

Why bass blockers? I like bass.

 

The dash speakers aren’t made to handle bass; will distort and sound like poo. The door speakers will handle the bass for you - or just install a sub to take care of it

 

I installed the 12tech system and have the sub and amp. Wanted to upgrade the dash.

Thanks

 

definitely do it; you won’t be disappointed. But I would definitely recommend installing the bass blockers before you do it

 

Those just plug directly in and run off the head unit correct? I’m still hoping my dash speakers still work after installing the door speaker kit from *********.

 

They plug directly into the speaker and attach to the speaker wires. I just shaved a piece of the insulation behind the stock adapter and attached it that way. If I ever decide to go back to stock I can since I didn’t clip the harness.

 

Everything from ********* arrived. Took 10 days to land.
I had asked them if I should purchase a loc to send signal to the self powered subs I have. I also explained why I couldn’t purchase their subs due to space.

they told me there were extra speaker wires I could tap into. Maybe I’m just dumb but most loc I have found require 4 wires. Just not sure if I should tap into the rear speaker wires going to the new amp with their rca adapters or If I should buy an expensive loc and tap in the same way.

 

From what I can remember, the purple wires are sub wires. You can cut the connector and connect the solid purple to front / rear positive wires and the purple with stripe to front / rear negative wires. I believe you only HAVE to tap into front OR rear, but I did both (just cut, stripped and twisted the positive wires together and same for negative). Hope this clears it up for you. You will be impressed with the sound improvement. Worst case scenario open a ticket with ********* and ask them to have a rep call you while you’re actually out there installing it. That’s what I did and they were super helpful. For what it’s worth, I did not use and loc. And didn't have to use the RCA's. There is a video on their website showing how to tune is after everything is installed. You will need a voltmeter, download test tunes and disconnect all speakers....the video will walk you through everything. I have not tuned mine yet.

 

Thank you @shawn474. Just use the 1 positive and tap both positive from the amp and same for the negative. Wasn’t sure if that would work but I’m happy to hear it will.


I think I’m going to do the install in stages. Door speakers one weekend with amp and subs the following. I wanted to ask ********* if they could sell me the cd for tuning since I don’t have an option to burn cd’s. Another thing is I purchased an 8gauge wire kit but think I’m going to upgrade it. Considering getting a 0gauge and a distribution block. 8 gauge for taco tunes amp, 8 gauge for both subs, 8 gauge for the wireless one compressor and another for the horn blasters train horn kit. Projects are stacking up.

 

call ********* and have them confirm the wiring just in case.

i used a 4 gauge kit and it was fine.

 

Im putting 6x9 components in my doors soon, I’ll let u know how that works out. I know its not in an enclosure but im hoping for some decent midbass. It wont cover the bill for a sub, but maybe the underseat option with 6x9s in the doors can suffice.