My Tundy is a hog

Hmm, mine has a tow package so maybe I'm understanding why it's dropped 130 from the original 1440. I still can't figure out where yours is losing another 330 fuel weighs about 7lbs/gal. Let me ask you this? Why are you worried? Do they make you run across scales and check that stuff? Most engineering designs have a 10-20% fudge factor.

 

Not really worried. I just want some room for an extra passenger ocassionally (adult daughter), generator (~100 lbs), etc. I'm not concerned about getting weighed. When I weighed my truck with the loaded RV on the hitch, ~250 lbs of cargo in the truck and 3/4 tank of gas, the weight was 7,200 and the GVWR is 7,200. So maybe 50-60 over, and GVWR is what I'm going to watch. I'm a novice at towing so I'm just trying to be safe and do it right.

 

I believe a vehicles GVWR includes a full tank of gas

 

I understand. I think you are fine as long as you don't get crazy and start ripping stuff off your truck or throwing a lot of fat chixx in the bed. Enhance the rear suspension if you feel the need. I've added a safe, sway bar, Bakflip and the 50 lb Tundra bed mat. I don't even count that any more than the 7lb AR15 under the back seat

 

4X4 RCSB KUBOTA

 

Yep. Samesame. An OEM can only do so much and expect it to ride decent empty. It's pretty easy for an OEM to scale it up to a 2K load but... nobody would buy it because it would ride like a horse drawn carriage and... then they would be competing with their 3/4 ton sales. Lose lose.
OP, you can add capacity but not legally. Only the OEM can set payload.

 

It would be interesting (to me) to know if the Lariat had the big fuel tank.

 

The tundra is a lot heavier. Mine is about 6000 lbs. Here's the Platinum F150

 

True that. In 4 years of ownership I carried a pallet of tile once that easily was over 1000 lbs....ass end dragging the ground. Meh, only one time, I usually just haul lighter stuff so no big deal. If my job involved hauling heavy or towing heaving I'd own an F350 / F450.

 

My spare is useless as I run 35's. I should really take it off but am too lazy to do so.

 

Its actually very easy to do once you figure out that the wrench for it is in the jack lol. 5-10 minute job. But i hear ya on being lazy about this kinda stuff. Lower the chain, unclip the rim and raise the chain, maybe zip tie it up somewhere so it's not swinging around like crazy. I removed mine day 1 so I could flip it over so the valve stem faced down for easier airing up. I also lower it every year and spray that area, chain, both sides of the wheel with fluid film.

 

Removed my spare also so the rust proofer could get to all the frame. Never put in back on. I will throw it in the bed if if leaving the city.

 

If toyota could have made it 100 lbs lighter without sacrificing anything they would have

 

Put gear/stuff in the RV, except for the wife that is.
Gas cans probably not, but a lot can fit inside the trailer,strapped down.

 

I think most of us get close to going over the 1,000lb payload when we tow with these trucks. Passenger count as payload. I had a weather guard cross over box and ditch that for a roll up cover to save weight. My curb weight of my truck is 5980. But this was just my case with truck.

 

When I drive my truck I have less then 1000lb of payload. The curb weight of my truck is 5960. I weigh 235.

 

The good news is that with a 900lb payload you will be almost perfectly balanced

 

This guy does a decent explanation of GVWR GCWR what options and decrease your max tow weight. The max tow capacity means basically nothing compared to the 7200 GVWR on our doors. Check it out, it a eye opener

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qwFLOBrADBs

 

From what I get from their site a 4x4 cremax shortbed has a max payload of 1520. Through options your payload has been decreased to the door sticker spec. 1520 is your max and if it can be reduced by adding weight, it can be increased (up to 1520) through weight reduction. Toyota defines "payload capacity" as a GVWR - curb weight and is for comparison only. The only way to know is get your truck on a scale and subtract that from your Toyota spec'd GVWR. Then start shedding weight until you are at the max listed payload for your config, in my case it is 1520. Reducing weight beyond that would be pointless because you're going above what is spec'd as safe for your vehicle setup. We do the same thing with our work trucks when we strip the chassis and bolt on service beds. You are limited to "MAXIMUM PAYLOAD" for your vehicle setup but can play with the number under that.

 

Makes sense to me. To keep things simple, I'm just focusing on keeping the GVWR under the 7200 lbs maximum per the door sticker. Weighing the loaded truck with trailer attached is easy enough. If I'm at 7200 and want to add 100 lbs then lose 100 lbs somewhere else.

 

That bumper must weight 250 pounds.

 

The full bumper replacement is just south of that. I didn’t really add that much weight by adding the bumper since the stock bumper was like 40-50 lbs.

It surprised me how heavy my truck’s curb weight (5960) compared to my unladen weight (5600). The only thing I can think of is Toyota doesn’t include fluids for unladen weight.

 

Loosing 100 on the trailer is like a fly on a horses rear because of having a 9-15% tongue weight

 

Pretty easy to go over 1,000 lbs.. gravel, stones and dirt haul could go over easy. Since they only guess at the yardage. Most require 1/2 yard at least for purchasing.

I'm glad I'm at 1200 slightly higher than 1000.

 

2 jugs of oil- maybe 25lbs?
Jug of diff oil- 12?
Trans fluid- 36 lbs?
Gas tank full maybe 200?
Battery is 35?


Guess that adds up fast

 

I was referring to the truck cargo.