1st Gen(2UZ-FE) header options

Similar to how we compiled options for sliders, I'd like to go over long and short tube headers and ask some questions along the way.

I know several members have JBA shorties but I have seen anyone chime in with long tube headers.

Let's talk about short tube options first. @Darkness @bajaphile

• It seems as though the performance gains are noticeable, but not huge. Is that fair?
  
• Due to space constraints, is it safe to say short tube headers are easier to install? Or is there no difference?
• Other than JBA, what manufacturers should be considered? Who seems to have the best prices on these?

Moving on to long tube

• The long tube option from Dirty Deeds have my attention. According to Keith they are good for 30 horsepower for my truck but it seems to indicate this is only if you pair it with his racing exhaust.
• What other manufacturers should be considered?
• Obviously long tube options are more expensive, but it seems like they also provide a lot better performance gains. Agreed?

Looking forward to feedback from anyone on this. Feel free to throw out other options I didn't list.

 

I've been dealing with an annoying exhaust leak for a quite a while and about ready to go in on a full exhaust system including JBA longtubes. I'll be watching this closely to see opinions and experiences before I take that next step.

 

Same. I can't figure my truck out. When the engine is cold is sounds like crap. Raspy is the only word I can come up with to describe it. One video I found online said that the early models(00-03 I think) would develop hairline cracks in the exhaust manifold. Once the engine warms these noises go away. This seems to describe my truck perfectly as it sound fine once it warms up. I'd like to gain back some of the power I lost with bigger tires and I'm sure my truck will sound better with headers.

 

Mine is loudest when cold but it never goes away unfortunately. I'm also tempted to omit the cats on the exhaust system replacement since my county doesn't test emissions anymore. Some nearby counties do however, so I'll probably still end keeping them in case I decide to sell one day.

 

Trouble with header rating is nobody gets dyno time to do a controlled experiment.

 

Basically before and after install numbers or what do you mean exactly?

 

Exactly.

 

That's all you got? Come on man!

 

The ones I'm aware of are below. The only ones I've had are JBA shorty. The ones on the extinct list can possibly be found used but it's been a while since I've seen any of them around.

Shorty's:
JBA
Pacesetter

Long Tubes:
JBA
Doug Thorley

Potentially extinct:
TRD mid length headers
S&S long tube
SS Autochrome

 

Sub’d I am so sick of the cold tick I could scream. Was going to buy a newer truck but looks like I’ll be buying a house here so probably gonna roll the 2000 for a while longer.

 

I bought the truck with the headers so unfortunately can't comment on any performance gains. I'm generally a purist and probably would have stuck with the stock replacement manifolds. The headers are relatively quite in general and appear to be of good quality.

My only comment is that my 2001 4x4 4.7l is way slower than my dad's 2003 2wd 4.7l and my wife's 2005 2wd 4.7l 4runner!!

 

Does anyone know of mid pipe options with the JBA long tube headers apart from dirtydeeds?

 

When I had my 2000 I had SS Autochrome headers with their y-pipe. I did notice any performance gains, but it did sound sweet with the Flowmaster 40’s. My only complaint is that I never could get them to stop leaking!!! That truck ticked until I traded it 3 years ago.

I’d put some headers on my 05, but I’m certain it’ll tick. No matter what, if you add headers sooner or later you will develop a leak...true???

 

I've read that most header leaks develop after installing with sub-standard gaskets which many of the header manufacturers include. The solution was to purchase OEM gaskets from Toyota and use them instead. Supposedly, the JBA longtubes include high quality gaskets but I'd probably want to compare them OEM before installing anyway.

 

I had a set of ebay shorty headers. I had to drill out the flange mounting holes so they'd go over the studs easier and also had a leak in the passenger side collector. Once i drilled them one size larger they went right on. Of course I didn't check inside the collector welds and thats where it had a small leak. Overall I was happy with them. Whatever route you go, tape the flange off and fill it with a fog machine to check that they're completely welded before you install.

 

So I've been doing more research on header installs. I spoke to a guy that installed short tubes while the engine was completely out of the truck. Even then, some of the bolts took him hours. It wasn't fun.

I've been looking at my truck. I think this is going to suck. I'm thinking I might start soaking each bolt in Kroil over the next few months. Do you guys think that's safe? I know those manifolds get hot.

@Darkness how many bolts on each side? I can't quite see everything.

 

@FirstGenVol 8 per side, 2 per exhaust port. The hard ones to get at are the lower center ones, especially on driver side. I dont know how flammable kroil is, if you spray them when you get home from work or something they should be fine to drive the next day. I sprayed liquid wrench on my nuts a few times before I was ready to do the job and get them off. (Somebody have fun with that)

@Mustanley oem isnt the only option for header gaskets, Percy's work well and were a common go-to for a lot of installs. Mine haven't leaked in 10 years. Don't go with Percy's for the collectors though, those are bad. Go with Remflex at the collector. (For anybody doing shorties)

 

I had the leaking manifolds replaced JBA shorties on my 2002 by my Toyota dealer back in 2003, I chose the shorties because it was a direct bolt on installation. They are still in service, and have more than 150,000 miles on them. Contrary to what others may say, the shorties do boost your HP & TQ.

 

$16 Remflex (8015) 2-1/4" 3-Bolt Universal Exhaust Gasket, (Set of 2)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQHLNJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_nQx.DbFTV7ZFP

I think these are the ones for the collector you’re referring to. I to have read great things about them. When I did my install I used Percy seal 4 good on the headers with Toyota header nuts and the JBA supplied collector gaskets. I haven’t had any problems with leaks.

Here’s the link for the percy’s:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-66080/

 

Wow! Can you elaborate? Are all the vehicles stock? Slower as in of the line? Or every situation? I can understand the 4Runner, but I’m just curious.

 

2wd is faster.

 

And approx. 300 lbs. lighter.

 

I fixed it for you.

 

The lighter 2WD can be quicker (depends on the driver), but it's only faster if the speed governor has been eliminated.

And as mentioned above, OEM Toyota gaskets are the best.

 

So the early 4x4 access cabs are “way slower” ??

 

Bet my 4x4 reg cab will put run anything!





(Once I do long tubes, injectors, throttle body bore and some other little tweaks)

 

The non vvti engines are missing a good chunk of power compared to the vvti engines. But their by no means slouches

 

All non-modified access cabs are "way slower".

 

Always long tubes vs stock and short headers for whatever few increased hp. Keeping stock over buying short after market replacement headers is common sense to not waste cash. Short headers are a waste of time!