Current brake situation/drilled and slotted upgrade

Just my two cents, I’d leave the melted down china ak 47s made into hart rotor, and buy a dependable brand you know about. Now if you are trying to save money then I’d def buy something else cause you’ll be doing this job again if you go with those. Sorry if this comes off bad but I just don’t understand why you would buy a Toyota then stick crap on it and ask it to be reliable unless your going for a Ford experience.

 

It’s literally the same thing? I’m not looking for an aluminum rotor

 

Same here, on my Old F150 PS were good buy.

 

Can you prove that? Hardness is the same? Was the process make it the same?

 

Not without giving it a shot and it comes with a decent warranty for brake part and there’s no way I can cause cracking so they would have to warranty it

 

Okay so hart brake kit is installed. Honestly for the price I’m impressed. I can’t tell you exactly but there was very little difference in the rotors

For my records the mileage they got put on

Unknown the brand and now I can’t find them but they were brand new when I got the truck roughly 60k ago

Old stuff coming off (even with the mud this job wasn’t bad)

Here’s the kit

Came with shims but no springs or anything

Everything on the driver front

Don’t have a way to measure but the Hart’s were thicker by a little probably just wear on the original since they did have 137k on them bit
Rears were the same
All 4 done (hood is up because i was messing with electric fan because I have two more on the way)

After I drove and the paint came off
Driving felt the same no gain or loss in stopping power except at full brake that was significantly better

 

I’m gonna go power stop on my tundra that being said I put on some eBay rotors and pads on my grandmas car no issues what so ever. Think they were about $100 shipped for the full set. Not drilled and slotted. I personally would just do slotted not drilled on a full size truck especially if you are towing and stuff.

That kit you bought looks great I think you will have no issues.

A lot of people on forums only read what others have done and stick with that not trying anything new or straying from the path. Like 5100s I’m sorry but those shocks are hardly an upgrade from what comes stock on a trd trim 4600s I believe.minus the adjustability in height.

 

If you actually look into Hart they have a decent website, not the cheesy shit some of these people pull and they have good reviews not many but they are good with photo that seem real. If I had a big trailer I would invest in power stop but if I’m gonna be towing that much I want 6 piston calipers like the Toyota Racing Development kit. My problem is this town doesn’t drain for shit so I end up with warped rotors I’m hoping this will prevent that.

 

Ya it looks like a good kit. If anything happens not like it’s hard to swap something else on either couple hours of work. I’m all for trying new stuff and a lot of that less known is actually just as good if not better than the big name stuff everyone swears by.

 

I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the same thing in a different box. I’m keeping all the stock stuff just in case I have problems but it seems solid

 

Brake performance .com gets my recommend. USA made and warranty against warpage at a good price.

 

Looks like you prefer to live dangerously!

 

Thanks for the update. Glad to hear everything worked out.

 

I’m going bendix severe duty fleet rotors when I do mine (which is soon as they are warped) $63 each for fronts on rock auto, $43 for rear.



Severe Duty Rotor
Bendix® Fleet MetLok® is a severe duty line of brake pads and brake discs designed specifically for the applications like towing, heavy hauling and frequent stopping. The line also offers comprehensive coverage for pursuit vehicles providing them with excellent performance and noise-free operation.

Features & Benefits:

• Built to withstand severe duty performance demands with superior thermal stability and strength
• SurfaceLok™ Coating is heat resistant and extends rotor life by limiting corrosion build-up
• OEM driven machining specifications allow smooth pad-to-rotor contact, improving pedal response for safe driving in all conditions
• Made from alloyed carbon performance rotor castings

 

I've heard this a lot, but my friend who owns a racing school and a couple dozen race cars says the opposite. He says that slots and cross-drilling serve the same purpose (heat dissipation and venting brake gases from between the pad and the rotor.)

He's had problems with slotted rotors cracking, but no problems with cross-drilled.

Of course, I had already bought my Powerstop setup when he told me this, but I don't have any complaints about them. They've worked great for me for the past two years. The Powerstop kit includes ceramic pads.

That cracked rotor in the picture above looks like it's been run with spent pads a few too many times, but with enough hard use I imagine even good ones would look like that eventually.

 

And that shows they have a time and place. And the metallurgy needs to be quality.

 

I did slotted/drilled rotors noticable difference

 

Once all the coating came off there is a noticeable increase in stopping power but I’m sure I lost some stopping power from glaze on the factory rotors

 

Alright so we are at almost 1500 miles and the tires are off so here’s an update. So far everything seems to be wearing evenly, no cracks or warp yet. Seems to be decent. I do pizza delivery and we are understaffed so these brakes see a lot of hard stop and go. Plus she weighs 7k.

Mileage

Driver front

Driver rear

Passenger rear

And passenger front

The current weight of 7120

 

I have a Powerstop Z23 kit that just hit 3 yrs old and the steering wheel shakes when I apply the brakes. Now that I am running 34's, would I be better off going to the Z36 kit? These pics are both front rotors.

 

Quick question: do people on here index their rotors or go pitcrew style?
With all the warping issues i've seen seen on here I am wondering if it's a tolerance issue. Anyone know the tundra clearance spec off the top of their head?
Maybe I'm overthinking this one..

 

I have a friend that has them on his 14 tundra and he loves them. Trust me ,he drives hard.As long as the drill holes are rolled and not straight then you shouldn't have any problems with cracks on the outside of the drill holes.

 

I’m not sure what you mean by index the rotors? And my warping issue is purely the way I drive, everything I’ve ever owned has done it

 

So basically 4K miles later

I see nothing unusual. Do you guys see anything? Only did one side due to laziness
Rear

Sorry about it being blurry

 

By indexing I mean checking the new rotor once it’s on the hub with a dial indicator to ensure that it’s sitting perfect. They make shims you can place in between the hub and rotor if it’s not. Just was wondering if people did that on here or not.

 

I have not but since changing to drilled and slotted I have had no vibration

 

Being a machinist for many years , can't trust spec sheets with vague specs , made of steel made with zinc , etc..etc.. many variations of steel and plating , what grade of steel, how thick is plating, and last of all , it's no fun filing a warranty claim from a hospital bed ,or having your dependents do it. buy proven quality , feel better all around.

 

So how exactly do products become proven? Everyone looking at it and saying well there not proven so I’m not buying, that’s what proves them? I needed brakes and I’m not rich so I tried them out so far no complaints. Nothing is falling apart, they stop way better than factory. After 5 hard thousand miles. There’s no cracks, no warp, pads still have plenty of life. What am I suppose to expect out of better? Thicker pads after 5k? Thicker rotors? I see absolutely no issue with this product

 

I have used BrakeMotive stuff off eBay without issues on multiple vehicles

As to the cross drilled and slotted subject my opinion is just stay with blank flat rotors

I had cross drilled originally on my tundra when i got it and when towing or heavy stopping they shook badly

Went to blanks and never an issue

 

I buy my stuff from rock auto and it works great and lasts a long time.

They weren't that popular when I was buying from them and now all I see on Tacoma are rock auto.

Someone has to try them and either say no, they wear like shit or hell yes! These are awesome!

Glad you are trying them out and keeping us updated.
Looks like they wear nice and they haven't exploded like some think they would.

Also thanks for the posts and pics.
I wouldn't buy them but again, I have a hard on for rock auto.

I bet if they last some will get them here.