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Could use some advice for Transfer Case Actuator replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Haltercraft, Jul 27, 2019.

  1. Jul 27, 2019 at 6:26 AM
    #1
    Haltercraft

    Haltercraft [OP] New Member

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    Greetings. So my '12 was having the dreaded flashing 4HI light on the dash, and not engaging 4HI or 4LO. Stupidly, I pulled the two plastic covers off the transfer case actuator, gears fell out, which mucked up the timing. Also managed to break off a small plastic lever inside one of the gear housings. Long story short, I ordered a new actuator with the intent of carefully pulling the two plastic housings off, observing the position of the actuator shift rods relative to the gear clock in the housing, and matching the rod position on my truck to the rod position of the new actuator, then installing the new gear clocks/housings, which theoretically would set the timing correctly.
    20190726_183327.jpg 20190726_183423.jpg (pics of the actuator rod and gear housing assembly in position shipped from the factory, which appears to be 4LO - when I pull the rod currently in my transfer case all the way out, it stops in the position in the photo)

    With the new actuator, I taped the rods down so they wouldn't move when I removed the gear clock housing, and everything came apart perfectly. But from the factory, the new actuator rod appears to be pushed fully back (into the actuator housing), which I thought was 4LO? When I replicate this position with the actuator rods that are still installed on the truck, I think I'm placing it in 4LO as well. I read somewhere that the actuator rod pushed all the way in is 2HI.

    My question: If I manually set the actuator shaft (rod) to match the position of the factory actuator, and install the gear housing/motor to match the position it's in from the factory, when I start the truck in 2HI, will the actuator make the switch from what I assume is 4LO back into 2HI? I should have never touched that thing without deeper research...

    note: I would replicate this process on the lower actuator, which I believe is the diff lock actuator)
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2019
  2. Jul 27, 2019 at 12:03 PM
    #2
    Haltercraft

    Haltercraft [OP] New Member

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    Well I installed both new actuator motor assemblies onto the existing shafts, matching the shaft up to the actuator gear exactly as it was installed on the new unit that was shipped to me. Hopped in and started the truck, turned on 4HI and immediately got the blinking 4HI light and VSC light on. Lifted the truck and put it in drive, the rears spun and the fronts didn't, although the front propeller shaft was spinning. Drove it slowly down the driveway and it's definitely in 2HI So I feel that currently my 2wd/4wd shift fork is set in the 4HI position but the ADD fork on the front isn't engaging the front axle, does that sound right? I assume the front actuator needs attention, but is it safe to drive in the meantime? I've tried tapping the front actuator with a rubber mallet and nothing gives.
     
  3. Jul 27, 2019 at 12:20 PM
    #3
    pickeledpigsfeet

    pickeledpigsfeet New Member

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    I have only messed with the actuator on a taco, but they are the same design.

    Placement of the gearon the shaft isnt important. All that matters is that actuator motor is in correct position that correlates to shift rod location.

    So place shift rod in 2wd(all the way in towards tcase). Plug in actuator and shift into 4hi and then back to 2wd, making sure you see the shaft spin. Install actuator onto tcase and then you can place gear over shaft and meshing with shift rod.
     
  4. Jul 27, 2019 at 12:29 PM
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    Haltercraft

    Haltercraft [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the response. Are you saying I should manually push in the shift rod to 2wd, and then plug in and cycle the actuator motor while it's still disconnected? I guess that would serve to 'reset' the actuator motor? When you say "...making sure you see the shaft spin", which shaft are you referring to?
     
  5. Jul 27, 2019 at 2:23 PM
    #5
    Haltercraft

    Haltercraft [OP] New Member

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    I tried the above method, running the actuator while it's disconnected from the shaft (which was pushed into 2wd), and when the truck was started the actuator ran momentarily and stopped, then didn't run at all when switched from 2wd to 4wd and back.
     
  6. Aug 12, 2019 at 5:20 PM
    #6
    JohnMichael

    JohnMichael New Member

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    here is the timing. took me forever.
     

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  7. Aug 12, 2019 at 7:54 PM
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    Haltercraft

    Haltercraft [OP] New Member

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    Awesome, thanks for that. I figured that out as well, and then confirmed it was in the right position by plugging the wiring harness into the actuator but leaving it disconnected from the housing, then turning the truck on and switching between 2H/4H. The actuator will reposition itself to proper timing this way using it's position sensors. I even pulled the gears out and installed them randomly, plugged the actuator in and turned the truck on, and it immediately reset itself into 2H. Pretty nifty workaround! Thanks for your help, hopefully we saved someone some time and money!
     
  8. Aug 12, 2019 at 8:22 PM
    #8
    JohnMichael

    JohnMichael New Member

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    Yeah kept looking for a clear answer in a Forum so I posted one. Guess I should include the shaft should be pushed all the way in the transfer case. Yeah always nice to save money. It is usually the persistence that pays off. Mine was pretty rusty inside the vacuum tube had deteriorated and I have been driving through some big puddles on the beach. So nice to have it fixed.
     
  9. Aug 12, 2019 at 8:45 PM
    #9
    Haltercraft

    Haltercraft [OP] New Member

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    Well hey, at least yours actually needed replacing! I pulled mine apart and it wasn't even the problem, clean as a whistle in there (only 70K miles). But in the process of removing the upper actuator I broke that little grey plastic lever that's visible in your photo, just below the metal contacts you're pointing to. Impossible to reinstall, so I had to order a whole new actuator assembly for $500 (@ RockAuto) because of my ham-fisted removal of the actuator. Managed to finally get the timing right and installed the new actuators on the old housing, but still no activation of the front ADD actuator, so that's my next step. The TC actuators are working properly now though, and my 4HI light isn't flashing constantly, so that's a relief.

    Well done, you must be stoked!
     
  10. Aug 12, 2019 at 9:02 PM
    #10
    JohnMichael

    JohnMichael New Member

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    I did pull the differential actuator out as well. Watch out for gear oil! Pulled everything apart including the motor (the black cap). The contacts on the motor are pushed against it with springs. They may fly out. Very tedious reinstalling them! And kind of hard knowing whether you have the fork on when reinstalling on the differential. Yeah, I have 200,000 miles on my truck so I guess cleaning stuff up can’t hurt (unless you break it or lose parts in the process).
     
  11. Nov 9, 2019 at 5:15 PM
    #11
    Elkhuntr

    Elkhuntr New Member

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    I'm an old man and hate computers (I was a "mainframe" programmer and in system support for 32 years) so I will probably have some issues with posting comments. One of my sons owns a first gen TRD and step son has a 2nd gen Tundra 4wd. The second gen is why I am here. Found code U0114 so decided to learn what we could about fixing it. Also no 4wd. Found this thread, it looked interesting and informative, so here I am!!
    We suspected something bad with 4Hi actuator, so took it off (after doing alot of reading on the internet). Ya, we lost the alignment in doing that, but didn't break anything. Motor good, so put it back, aligning small gear best we could by the grease pattern on the small gear and the same pattern on the rod. Nothing! No movement, no sound. Now we went after the U0114. Took glove box out and looked at all part numbers on all the electrical stuff. Found 89533-0C010 to be the 4wd module. Unplugged both harnesses the replugged them. Tested 4Hi and had power and noise! Some of it was "funny noise" which concerned us. With the front left wheel in the air the front drive line still turns in 4Hi and the dash green 4 wheel drive emblem flashes.
    What have we learned? We should have fixed the electrical first. I am sure the 4Hi actuator was good all along. We will tear the 4Hi actuator apart and with wires attached, do the alignment by switching from 2Hi to 4Hi while holding it, then once it is aligned, switch back to 2H, which should reset actuator to 2H position, then very carefully reinstall. As a side note, I tried installing the cap with the 2 moving parts, whatever they are called, in place. Of course, tip it over and they fall out. So i took a very thin kitchen knife, layed it against the two parts to hold them in place, then turned the cap upside down to install it. Once the tip of the shaft hits the hole and the small sprocket aligns with the rod, just push the cap on as far as possible, then slide the knife blade out. It worked perfectly! Just make sure your arms are in the right places around the exhaust and drive line so you have adequate working space. The front axle might be next.
     
  12. Nov 10, 2019 at 7:04 AM
    #12
    Haltercraft

    Haltercraft [OP] New Member

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    Good call using the knife to hold things together as you reinstalled the top actuator, I did the same thing and it worked great. Before reinstalling the actuator, be sure the metal rod is pushed as far into the transfer case as it will go, as that is the 2wd setting.

    The front diff actuator (ADD actuator) is a lot more straightforward to remove...4 - 12mm bolts holding it on, then pry it off as it will be stuck on there with the FIPG (gasket material - go ahead and buy a tube of Toyota 1281 FIPG, you'll need it for reinstall). You can remove and install the actuator without lowering the diff or any of that, you'll just need to practice removing and installing it in that tight space. When you first start to pull it out, it may look like there isn't enough space, due to the crossmember that sits just in front of the diff, but just play with it a little and you'll figure it out. Reinstalling, it's easiest if you move the metal sleeve inside the diff (that the actuator fork slips over) to the middle of the opening (you may need to spin the drivers side tire), install the actuator - making sure that the fork does slip into the 'notch' on the sleeve, and then you can position the actuator over the bolt holes. You'll 'feel' that the fork is engaged with the sleeve if you've done it right; as you move the actuator left and right, you will hear and feel the sleeve inside the diff moving with the fork.
     
  13. Nov 10, 2019 at 8:48 AM
    #13
    Elkhuntr

    Elkhuntr New Member

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    Thanks for the ADD info. This is my stepsons truck we are trying to figure out. He went across a deep spring runoff creek twice last spring where front axle was completely under water. After that the 4 wheel dash light would flash, then it just quit. He lives in the mountains in west central Idaho and needs 4wd. Is there a way to apply 12v to the ADD without removing it just to see if it locks? If so, which plug pins? Right now we can't even get the front drive line to engage, but we hear the motor cycle, but the drive line still turns freely with the driver front tire off the ground. That's why we will take the 4Hi cap off tomorrow to try and get it moving the rod. Just thought of this!! Will the front drive line engage in 4Hi if the ADD is bad? And will the 4wd dash light flash if both the TC and ADD aren't engaged? Thanks for help.
     
  14. Nov 10, 2019 at 10:43 AM
    #14
    Haltercraft

    Haltercraft [OP] New Member

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    The plug pins for the motor in the ADD actuator are the red and red/black. Message me your email and I'll send you a wiring schematic for 2nd gen Tundras.

    The front diff actuator won't engage until the transfer case actuator engages. When you turn the switch from 2wd to 4wd, the 4Hi actuator on the TC will cycle (very audible, engages the front propeller shaft) and then a signal is sent to the ADD actuator to engage the front diff. If the the ADD doesn't engage, you'll get the blinking 4HI light. Glad to help!

    Screen Shot 2019-11-10 at 11.42.45 AM.jpg
     
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  15. Nov 15, 2019 at 4:44 PM
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    Elkhuntr

    Elkhuntr New Member

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    Haltercraft: Update of the '07 Tundra not shifting into 4wd. Four days into the high actuator, 3 times off and on trying to get an alignment we felt good with. 4hi would move the rod. Went to front axle actuator. Motor was locked up solid on the winding end. The rest was good. All of the moveable parts fell out when we took the black cover off. Story of my life. Removed armature from rest of motor housing and filed rust off the winding housing and dug and scraped rust in side magnet housing. We were able to keep track of the little steel balls on both ends of the armature. Cleaned bronze bushing out real good, sanded down brush contact area on armature and slightly touched the brushes. Back together, and with your diagram of wiring, motor ran pretty well in both directions. Big problem was getting moving parts and contacts aligned with black cover. We hit it close by just getting slight clicking on the slider collar with the axle teeth. We were brain dead and pretty depressed. The truck couldn't be moved with that clicking, so while my stepson called Toyota, I unplugged the front harness, got some wiring from a Chevy harness that would slip over the blade contacts on the actuator (with long wire leads), connected 10amp charger to the two motor wires (with the charger off), and while spinning the passenger side tire, flipped the charger switch on for just a second. The motor pulled the forks in the right direction away from the inside end of the axle. (That was a big sentence!!) No more clicking so the truck could be driven without doing damage in the front diff. The Toyota dealer and he said he could have the front actuator here by noon tomorrow, and would charge $160 to install and make sure the 4wd, high and low, would work. It worked, and step son was happy and I was relieved that didn't have to tear the front end apart again. We learned a ton with you and others help. Thanks much. You all did good!!
     
  16. Dec 10, 2019 at 6:51 AM
    #16
    Khaled Alfrd

    Khaled Alfrd New Member

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    thank you for the great info.. I am having 4Hi flashing 2011 4x4 tundra .. please can any one give me the wiring diagram of ADD and TC control.
    the main plugs are 8 wires with one slot empty .. 7 wires are used.

    2011 Tundra Transfer case.jpg
     
  17. Dec 10, 2019 at 8:42 AM
    #17
    Trident

    Trident New Member

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    Just a thought.....after not using my 4wd since last winter on my 2007, I attempted to use it last weekend and it took probably 45 mins of cruising gravel fire roads and countless attempts to engage it before it finally worked. Flashing 4Hi light the whole time til it worked.

    Lesson learned, engage it regularly.
     
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  18. Dec 27, 2019 at 5:02 PM
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    Bob9700

    Bob9700 New Member

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    I had the vent hose crack on the transfercase actuator and the 4hi motor is rusted solid, I ordered a new transfercase actuator and have been attempting to get the timing correct for the 4hi motor, but with no luck. I have the rod pushed all the way in and have the motor and gear in the 2wd position. I've tried pulling the rod all the way out and have the motor in the 4wd position. But I keep getting the fast blinking 4hi light. I'm able to have the motor plugged and not installing it but holding it in my hand and have someone put it in 4hi, it will turn the 4hi light on solid, and lock the front differential. I've tired installing in this posposit but it will go into 2wd but not back in 4wd. Any help would be much appreciated.
     
  19. Jan 10, 2020 at 9:53 AM
    #19
    cerF

    cerF New Member

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    Had same blinking 4wd symptoms, wouldn't go into 4hi. Removed cap of rear actuator, cleaned connections and applied new dielectric grease. On forward actuator, I tapped the metal housing with a hammer with a bit of force a few times, wiggled the wire harness, and also tapped the plastic housing gently with the hammer. Those actions fixed my problem. Truck is working as good as ever now. 2006 limited TRD tundra with 182k miles.
     
  20. Jan 29, 2020 at 8:34 PM
    #20
    sixweeds

    sixweeds New Member

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    I posted a lengthy thread regarding this issue if you're looking for a detailed description of how to fix your transfer case. See:https://www.tundras.com/forums/2nd-gen-tundras-2007-2013.26/

    Here's the Word.docx attachment you can use if you need to. You can print it out if you need to. Hope that helps!
    2007-2020 Transfer Case Actuator
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 1, 2020
    smiffy6four and swank501 like this.
  21. Jan 31, 2020 at 10:13 AM
    #21
    swank501

    swank501 New Member

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    i am currently in the same position where my vent hose went missing, top actuator motor locked up. I took them apart and got the motor cleaned and freed up. Everything worked, then it did not. I took it apart again and noticed this stupid plastic switch had broken off. I think this is all i really need to fix my truck at this point. Would anyone happen to still have this part from your old parts? I will pay!

    [​IMG]
     
  22. Feb 1, 2020 at 9:24 AM
    #22
    sixweeds

    sixweeds New Member

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    Swank501: Sorry to hear about the broken tab on the switch. It is a bummer to have to buy a whole transfer case just for a part that costs pennies, but it seems you cannot buy components for the actuator by themselves. If you don't find the little switch from someone on this forum, you might try a salvage yard. Generally, they'll sell the entire transfer case with the actuators for $300-$600.00, give or take. At least my local guys were. One was a low-mileage tran case for $600 and the other had 160k and I bought that one for $325. I ended up repairing my little motor and didn't need the transfer case. They will accept it back for a full refund of $325. So in the end, it only cost me some solder. I've attached a Word.docx of the procedure as I did it if you think it might be helpful in reassembly. The timing is critical, but if you follow the steps and align it where I've shown, as did John Michael on 8/12/19 of this thread, you should be good to go. If you have any questions at all, I'd be happy to help. Even if you do have to buy a used transfer case just to get the actuator part, you've saved yourself thousands of dollars. What I was quoted from a local shop that only charges $80 per hour labor was $5-$6k. So I saved that much! Best of luck!
     

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  23. Feb 5, 2020 at 1:47 PM
    #23
    swank501

    swank501 New Member

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    @sixweeds i did end up buying a used actuator for $50, so i will be proceeding with the repair when i gets here.
     
  24. Feb 8, 2020 at 6:26 AM
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    sixweeds

    sixweeds New Member

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    Reach out if you run into and snags. Best of luck!
     
  25. Feb 8, 2020 at 12:13 PM
    #25
    Rickd17

    Rickd17 New Member

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    Can anyone tell me how far the 4hi shift rod travels on a 2010 Tundra? Ive checked them both and the 4lo seems to travel twice as far as the 4hi. Ive heard of 4wd issues due to internal T/C bearings or clips. Im wondering if this is my issue but need to know the amount of travel these rods should have.
    Also, Is there any special timing on the front diff actuator anyone knows of?
    Thanks everyone...
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2020
  26. Feb 8, 2020 at 6:54 PM
    #26
    sixweeds

    sixweeds New Member

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    I think the 4-lo rod has less teeth than the 4-hi. 12 instead of 18. But watch the Youtube video in the thread. That’s the 4-lo in the video. It’s a lengthy read, but this thread explains it all. You just have to go through it all. I’m not near my laptop, so I can’t add more...good luck!
     
  27. Feb 8, 2020 at 7:37 PM
    #27
    FWD Tundra

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    You guys are lucky. My transfer case motor failed in 4lo on my 03 4Runner, and the transfer case had to be removed and split apart to get the old motor our as it has collars on the shafts that go inside of the TC with c clips holding the rods from coming out and which are part of the motor and is impossible to remove without the removal of the TC. Sounds like our Tundra's are a little more friendly to use.
     
  28. Feb 8, 2020 at 8:09 PM
    #28
    sixweeds

    sixweeds New Member

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    "You guys are lucky. My transfer case motor failed in 4lo on my 03 4Runner, and the transfer case had to be removed and split apart to get the old motor our as it has collars on the shafts that go inside of the TC with c clips holding the rods from coming out and which are part of the motor and is impossible to remove without the removal of the TC. Sounds like our Tundra's are a little more friendly to use."

    That is exactly what the dealer and my mechanic said was the fix on my 07' Tundra. So the fix may be the same on the 03' 4 Runner? The 4-Hi and 4-Lo actuator box is bolted to the transfer case and the actuator rods extend into the case. They said they'd have to pull the T-case and split it open to get the clips on the rods off to remove the actuator box and replace it. But as you'll see in this and another thread, if you remove the shields, the 5 screws to either or both covers, you can access the motors. In many cases, the motors are rusted and stuck. Mine freed up nicely and after cleaning, lubing, and re-soldering it, it worked fine. All that was left was getting the timing right and reattaching the vent tube, electrical connectors, and shields. My dealer quoted $5-6k for the fix! I fixed it for the price of some solder and a small zip tie! Of course, hindsight is 20/20 as they say. And I will add that these forums and YouTube are indispensable. Couldn't have done it without them. I recently replaced the motor in my daughter's 05' Subaru. After evacuating the AC system and draining disconnecting the power steering hoses at the pump, we discovered on a YouTube video(s) that all you had to do was unbolt the pump and compressor and move them to the side and keep the fluid/refrigerant in the system! I wasted refrigerant and pump fluid and made a mess on the floor and had to fill both systems back up. Time and money...now I know to do more research first!

    Here's a screen shot of a nice YouTube video in Pilipino (Tagalog), and it shows the actuator WITH rods removed. But in the article I attached in this thread previously, (and below again), you probably don't need to remove the whole thing...Thanks to SikretongMalupit KenKej for his great video!

    upload_2020-2-8_23-8-40.jpg


    upload_2020-2-8_23-2-8.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Feb 9, 2020
  29. Feb 9, 2020 at 8:41 AM
    #29
    FWD Tundra

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    Under warranty at the time covered at Toyota.:hattip:
     
  30. Feb 9, 2020 at 2:23 PM
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    Rickd17

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    2010 Tundra Limited Crew Max TRD 200k+ miles
    Level kit, cold air intake
    Well, in an effort to dig myself deeper into a whole lotta sh!@+. Im not sure what i did but now the transmission doesn't know what its doing. Truck starts, and i can shift between gears, the back up camera comes on in reverse but there is zero gear engagement. I can feel the truck go into neutral like usual but other than that no gears are usable. Only revs up as if all gears were neutral.
    Any suggestions fellas??? Im guessing i confused the computer somehow, i tried disconnecting the battery to reset but no luck. Gonna try and start over with removing and checking actuator positioning. Not sure what this has to do with the rest of the gears in the transmission though.
    HELP PLEASE!
     

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