Expert Help Needed! Tundra wiring issues.

Hi everyone,

I am new here and I am hoping that this expert tundra community can help me in the most frustrating dilemma I have ever experienced in my years working on vehicles. A few years back I purchased a wrecked 2012 Tundra with 46,00 miles. The tundra was rolled but sustained no significant damage to the drive terrain. When we purchased the truck it ran great and had no problems starting.

We decided to proceed with a conversion on the tundra chassis. We removed the top of the cab for the tundra and converted a 1978 single Pickup cab in its place. In doing this conversion the tundra was kept completely stock. The converted vehicle would use all of the Tundra components including the gas pedal, brake pedal, instrument cluster, and steering column. In the conversion we managed to keep all fluids in the truck and only remove components vital to the transition.

After completing the conversion, we moved on to putting the wiring harness back into the truck and making the connections. After everything is put back in we went to start the truck and it started strongly, but after about a second the engine cut out, seeming as if the computer took over and shut it off. If tried to start again the starter would run without starting the engine and not shut off until the key is put back into the off position. The truck has been taken to almost every shop in town but it has been simply dismissed as not possible, and there are not any shops in anchorage that tune the 4.6L tundra to my knowledge. I would love any advice or help that could aide me in this project. I am more than willing to provide more pictures or information.

 

This really sounds like an imobilizer issue. The ECU is not recognizing the key, thus not letting the fuel pump get voltage.

 

Is there a way to bypass or disable the immobilizer?

 

I would say this is correct. Because on the tundra dash there is a red key/car flashing for the immobilizer. And you changed the dash and if you didnt changed anything else engine related i would suspect the immobilizer. I recommend either disconnect the battery for 30 min. Use a different key or disconnect the negative and positive and touch them together for 30 seconds and see if that works.

 

I don't have and answer for you, except to look thru the Tundra dash parts for that clock/temperature/immobilizer part and hook it back up.

I do want to see more pics of this transplant project. This is gonna make that Ford purr.

 

Kudos to a bad ass MoFo project!!!!! Taking an uber reliable powerhouse power-plant, and sticking it into a stylish American Tradition.
I have no input, I’m sorry. Just wanted to give props, and hope.


Only advice, backtrack every single step from the donor dismantle. I’d guess it’s a a sensor somewhere.

 

Some of these might help

 

I cant tell you guys how thankful I am. In the conversion I am using all of the original tundra dash components, but now that I know what to look for I think I can focus my research better.