DIRTY SEVEN CLUB

Go 5.29. Dont even second guess. @tbrown and @Justincase76 have them.

 

My only thing was this is my DD and we are all clear on our trucks and gas mileage. Wasn't trying to bring it down to any crazy low levels miles per gallon.

 

It will probably help more than anything. Even though it will be turning more rpms, you'll be giving less throttle to get it moving and keep it moving.

 

Daily driver here, 5.29 has been perfect, it’s not over geared at all. Rpms roll like factory, mpg improved over 35’s with stock gears. I’m not even afraid to go back to 35’s with 5.29

 

Clarification, I’m not afraid to go back to 35’s, but I won’t.

 

At 70mph in speedo (true speed is 80mph via laser, gps and another chase vehicle), rpm is almost 2200. Go for 5.29, 4.88 is not short enough for 37’s. Purely on diameter, it should be 4.94. Then the added weight, so it should be more. 5.13 would be ideal I think but no ones that for our truck.

 

I’ve been testing MPG and I’m averaging 14.5 city and highway with 37’s and 5.29’s. I would envision highway be about 15-15.5. At 70mph I’m at about 2000 rpm or a tiny bit more I believe.

 

Exactly... 5.29’s and 35’s are like driving a race truck on the interstate... throttle is super responsive

 

At the end of the day if you bought a Tundra for gas mileage you failed for sure. That said every mod adds static and unsprung weight which is going to reduce mileage naturally.

 

Was just thinking about this last night lol. Is there not a programmer to calibrate our speedo for larger tires?

How many of you got the Kings with or without the adjusters and wish you'd gone the opposite route? Wondering if the adjusters are worth the extra money for a truck that will mainly DD and do some weekend exploring and playing.

If you were to use your truck mainly for road with a weekend trip here and there of over landing would you spend the extra money and go King or save some $$ and go with an Icon setup? I've been reading that the King coils sag pretty bad over time compared to others.

 

I'm not 100% sure about this but I don't think King or Icon make coil springs. I think Eibach makes the coils for both. Others will disagree but I feel like digressive valving belongs on cars, not trucks.

 

So for you it is a no brainer, King over the Icons. Do you think the adjusters are worth the extra $600? I have zero plans of baja racing, most of the stuff I will do would be slow and controlled

 

The truth is I have adjusters and rarely touch them. I do feel that bypass shocks in the rear ($400 upgrade) is well worth it even for asphalt. So, if you skip the adjusters in the front and run bypasses in the rear IMO it's a better ride than clickers up front and smooth bodies in the rear. Personally, I'll never run a smooth body in the rear again, the ride quality is that much better.

 

Alright sounds good, I will probably just opt in and get the adjusters. I would hate to spend all the money and wish I had gotten them

 

There is that. I'm glad I have 'em, just don't fiddle with 'em like I probably should. Also, you need to get the right coils. They (King, Total Chaos) used to think 600 lb coils were correct for Tundras, they're not. Might be the source of the sagging issues you mentioned before. I can't tell ya what springs are correct 'cause each setup is different and personal preference plays a large role.

 

Yea I already spoke with them and they said they will swap out the 600s for 700s with no charge. They are getting a final quote put together. Their recommendation was the SPC UCAs so that I could move everything forward to help fit 37s.

 

Ahhh, that's another thing I've learned as I prepare to install the 6th set of UCA's. Adjustment at the UCA is extremely helpful, necessary for me. I wouldn't run SPC in the dirt the way I drive my truck but if you're mild off road and mostly pavement they'll probably work fine.

 

It is going to get flexed from time to time but no high speed bumps and whoops.

 

Digressive valving in bypasses is dope.
Smooth in the chop at ride height, and then progressive deep in the stroke on bigger hits.

Technically I think we all prefer a more linear value for the valve and then use the tubes to tune for the big stuff.

 

Oh, and we use our adjusters on pretty much every trip, but they’re super easy to just turn with a finger and thumb, so it’s worth dialing it in just right for whatever load or terrain we’re on. Rebound doesn’t change, just compression.

 

I went with king I bought the rear used but newly rebuilt from a member on here and then bought my fronts new so far I have zero regrets from offroad at our camp to daily driving I drive through east texas north Louisiana every two weeks for 6 hours at a time the adjusters I feel help alot truck rides like a Cadillac to me now

 

Trying to do some shopping around and see who will offer the best price on Kings and UCAs and have a vendor questioning me on fitting 37s. Think he’d enjoy the photos if I linked him this thread? Meanwhile his personal Tundra is on like 8-10” of lift lol

 

Yeah a lot of shops shy away from cutting on a truck and just bolt shit on. Fast money with minimal risk.

 

This question is for everyone but I will direct it at you for now.

Yes I know offset is key to stuffing 37s, yes I know I will need to do BMC and pinch weld cutting. Right now I am leaning towards 6 speeds with KM3s, KM3s being a bit cheaper than others, but also only being 36.5 true diameter which will help with clearance issues.

UCA's, you have many options ranging from $539.95 (JBA) up to $1422.70 (Icon). Other brands being TC, Camburg, SPC, and I am sure more I am not thinking of. Why pick one over another and what determines the breaking point when you MUST upgrade to a more expensive UCA. I have been pointed towards SPCs.

Seems like everyone is running fiberglass on atleast the front for the most part. Is this only if you are running LT kits or does it make sense to do it on a truck not running LT.

Is there a way to do a build not running LT for now but have parts that can transfer over down the road to a LT kit without replacing everything a second time? IE: spend the money on UCAs, regearing, lockers, tires, wheels, for now and go a cheaper route on shocks and rear lift since it would be swapped out in a few years.

Last, the rear. I have seen everything from just adding a shackle, to add-a-leaf, to full spring replacement. So far I have been recommended to go the add-a-leaf route. Reason being, you dont hurt payload, and it will give you the added lift in rear while maintaining a nice ride.

Truck is 90% highway DD, 10% weekend runs going camping, exploring, light-moderate wheeling. There will be ZERO high speed whoops

 

I’ll start with the last part of your post:

Truck is 90% highway DD, 10% weekend runs going camping, exploring, light-moderate wheeling. There will be ZERO high speed whoops

If you’re not going to do high speed, there’s really no reason for the expense of LT other than the aesthetic. Our MT build keeps pace just fine through 95% of the terrain we cover with our LT friends. They can crush that last 5% and we watch or ride passenger for fun.

Now, LT is for more than just go fast. It will droop out and help in severe cross-axle situations on really rough terrain which will allow more tires to stay in contact for traction.

UCAs come into play when you run into clearance problems with bigger tires with more (0 to negative) offset wheels. They should be adjustable with heims at the through bolt. The icon are on-truck adjustable and I think are the only ones to offer that unless someone else has come up in the past couple years. It just makes alignment easier.

Fiberglass is needed for LT or for 37s with high offset. We ran stock fenders with 37s and they tucked just fine at 25 offset. When we switched to 0 offset beadlocks, we needed glass.

If you still think you want LT, don’t bother messing with anything else too much suspension-wise until you can do the LT. Pretty much nothing in the front suspension is transferable from MT to LT.

The rear - add a leaf will absolutely have a negative impact on your ride quality. I assume it’s the vendor with a 10” lift that’s telling you it won’t. That’s kinda dumb. You’re adding more spring resistance to increas arch and get the lift. Unless you add a bunch of weight to the rear (and subsequently return the ride height to stock) the rear will not have enough momentum to compress the spring on small stuff like cracks in the street and it will jar your teeth.
That said, I would need more detail on your daily load, camping load, and towing desires before we can say anything about the rear.

 

Sent you a PM. will follow up with more info

 

Hypertech makes a calibrator, I have one just need to do it

I went with clickers, never thought “wish I hadn’t” but...

This is a daily driver with a few trips here and there. I went bilstien 6112/5160 and thought “wish I had”...so now Kings. It depends on you. I always wish I had gone bigger, it’s a character defect. I could have saved a lot of money if I was just honest with myself up front

 

Pretty sure the aftermarket industry wouldn’t exist if any of us were honest with ourselves.

 

The bumper is actually getting a fresh powdercoat...just been a pain in the ass process

Still on stock gears

 

if you gonna custom tune the shocks to your truck, don't get the adjusters. if it's just for dd and week end exploring then yes you can get them.