Rotor upgrade help.warped for no reason

My 2016 rotors are warped and all this truck sees is freeway use, I'm pretty annoyed as my 2nd gen has seen 170k miles and I use it hard and is fine. Looking to upgrade any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

Actually ended up ordering these

 

What he said?^^^^^^^^^^^^. My oem rotors lasted 97k before replacement. That’s why I replaced them with oem. Good luck. D

 

I only use the oem rotors. I abuse the crap out of them and I've never had a warped rotor. I like em because they are cheap and durable/reliable

 

I had warranty work done on my 2011 because of a caliper issue. Is it squeaking?

 

Have you used them for long?

 

I have 70K on my 15 CM and i have warped front rotors as well. wondered if the brakes aren't up to par trying to stop such a beast? HAHAHA

 

Check out disk bake Australia brand. I have them they are great

 

Next week going back with oem I also have a 2nd gen 08 they have lasted 80k miles with pulling a camper a lot .I have kinda been told not to use slotted but idk why others have said that .

 

Good deal, ordered the last set at that price, Thanks

 

I’m at 18k and have a growling front driver side. Checked the pads, wheel hub/bearings, and calipers all looked good.....believe the rotor is warped. Mine might be from washing the truck after a long drive though

 

I had 18k mi on my 2010 DC and they started pulsing. Took it in for one of my "free" oil changes and asked them to check. They had the nerve to leave me a vm and say "rotors are warped but we have it on the lift now and can have them turned for $298" I called them back and asked the service rep if he had lost his mind. I was told it was a wearable part and the larger trucks routinely needed this done. I told him I was amazed at how stupid and ignorant he thought I was. They ended up doing it for free. 40k same thing, maybe I drive like an ass... bought a set of power stops slotted and ported for under $200 with pads and they lasted for 130k and continue to bash that dealer to this day.

 

This is a common problem with 2nd and 3rd generation Tundras. Google it and you will find lots of people complaining about it. I have a 2106 CM that I bought new, and around 35k my front brakes started a pretty bad shimmy when I applied the brakes. The weird thing is that it comes and goes and sometimes it is worse than other times. That does not logically sound like a warped rotor to me (If it is warped it should consistently do the same thing.). I almost think it is pad buildup on the rotor of some kind. I am easy on my brakes and don't tow, so it is not me. My last Camry had 100k on the front brakes when I sold it and I bought it new and put those miles on it. I have owned lots of vehicles and this has never happened before. However, I am reading that it is happening to more and more different brands of cars, so it is something the manufacturers are doing.

 

Buy some new rotors and move on with your life. They're $65 each and takes 20 min to install

 

That is what I am going to do, and normally I would prefer to use Toyota brand parts, but I think there is a design flaw in their pads or rotors, so I am going aftermarket (normal rotors and pads--not high performance).

 

There’s a lot of issues that many will not have the same experience with, I have a 2014 stock brakes and rotors with 73,731 miles. Still good, maybe by 90k it’ll need replacing but we’ll see.

 

I think I would try the bed in process that you do with new pads. I don’t think it’s necessarily a warped rotor but pad material buildup in certain spots causing it to feel warped. I have thought my truck do this after going off road. Then it went away. What you want is an even amount of pad material left on the rotor. Go do a few heat cycles as you would with new pads.

 

My 2017 four wheel drive has 51,600 miles and all is good. I bought it new.

My 1997 T100 four wheel drive has 265,000 miles on it and still carries the original (I bought it new off the lot) front rotors (back are drum) and all is good. I'm on my 3rd set of pads.

 

Good replies to my post. Yes, some of these problems only happen to some folks and others do not have the same problems. I also think it may be brake pad build up on the rotors. I am not the kind of guy who nitpicks every little thing or bad mouths Toyota. I am a Toyota guy and buy only Toyotas and have bought lots of new Toyota cars and SUVs and this truck over several decades--not a Toyota basher.

 

I have a 2017 TRD Pro with 20K and my front rotors are warped and the dealer says my pads need replacing. I just visited a friend with a 2019 SR5 with 30K and he has already had to replace his brakes up front (same issue, warped rotors causing a pulsating pedal. His brother also has a 2019 and has a pulsating pedal at 17K. No doubt Toyota has a problem. Now I need to decide which aftermarket rotors and pads I will buy.

 

I am probably going to do my front brakes (rotors and pads) when I put a slight leveling coil (6112) on the front. At least that is what I am thinking. I am going to do a lot of research and hopefully get something better than Toyota pads, if that is what is causing it. I will put a dial gauge on it too to find out if it is really warped or not before I pull it off. I have around 47k miles on my truck.

 

The ebc kit I put on is working amazing, probably 10k miles on them so far

 

Mine started shaking the wheel braking down steep inclines at about 10K. It's like holding onto a paint shaker.

I always blamed it on my notoriously hard braking (I like to party).

 

Lol I party hard too, my 08 has 177k stock rotors, smooth, my 16 was garbage after 10k miles

 

@ColoradoTJ , 002 reminds me of my Military days down in the engineroom working as a MM, Anything over that number got dumped..

 

I think most people consider an "uneven" surface to be loosely referred to as "warped". The bottom line is that the surface has "run out" which as a practical matter is the same as if the entire rotor was "warped" with the same type of "run out". In short, technically you are correct that the entire rotors don't usually warp (but they can) and it is usually just the surface that has run out, but everybody uses the term "warped" (even dealerships and brake shops) to mean the surface of the rotor is no longer running true (it has high and low places). In other words, it is really just a semantics difference.