1st Time changing on my Tundra

I have 2017 tundra with a TRD skid plate. I have not from my working on my rigs in a while. I am ready to get back into it since I am retiring. I want to change the oil for the 1st time myself, looking at the trd skid plate: do I need to remove the skid plate to remove the oil plug/filter like the stock skid plate?

 

Yes and you will need the oil filter wrench to change the filter. Also look up the torque specs for the filter and drain plug

 

Yeah stock skidplate needs to drop for an oil change. The trd pro skid or one from RCI has access doors so it doesn't have to.

 

I think the TRD pro skid plate has a removable panel for accessing the filter, which eliminates having to take it all the way off.

Edit.
Do you have the trd pro or just a trd skid plate?

 

There is always youtube. Here is one that will give you an idea of what is involved.

https://youtu.be/GcY8PNZfNv0

 

3 screws (10mm) and 5 bolts (12mm) to remove. Slide the skid pan about 1 1/2" to the drivers side and it'll come right off. A MotivX filter wrench and also a drain tube will make the job easier. For reference, torque specs are.... filter canister 18 ft/lbs, canister drain plug 9 ft/lbs, oil pan drain bolt 30 ft/lbs
skid pan bolts 21 ft/lbs. Be sure to get a replacement washer for your oil pan drain bolt.

 

Do dealer techs have a way to drain/replace the filter without removing the skid plate? Just asking because I just had my first oil change done and I marked one of the front skid plate bolts to show if they'd removed it or not, and it definitely wasn't removed. This is why I like doing my own maintenance, but I have free maintenance for the next 45,000 miles so it's hard to justify the cost.

 

You could get the oil drain pan bolt out without removing the skidplate but I don't see how its possible to not remove it to change the filter if you have the stock skidplate and not a trdpro plate.

 

I have the stock skid plate. They either skipped replacing the filter or the bolt magically lined up with the mark I made.

 

Just sharing my bad experience so others are aware of what some service departments do, probably a good idea to mark a skid plate bolt/oil drain plug to make sure they actually change the oil (like I did today):

Guess I learned my lesson (again) about letting a dealer work on my truck today. I called the service department at the dealership to ask if they changed the oil and filter as part of the 5,000 mile service and they told me that it wasn't due until 10,000 miles. I reiterated that I have a 2018 Tundra w/5.7 FFV and the recommended maintenance in the manual is every 6 months/5,000 miles unless E85 is used over 50% of the time, which drives the oil change requirement to every 2,500 miles. He again said that his system says every 10,000 miles and to bring my truck back up there so he could check the manual. Am I missing something here or is this service department really this incompetent? I'm pretty disgusted right now in the apparent lack of knowledge/care that they have. I don't really trust my truck in their hands at this point, so I'm going to be doing my own maintenance even though I have a maintenance plan with Toyota. I would take it to another dealer but the closest is 45 min away, not worth it. I'm either elevating this to their service manager or to HQ.

 

So sounds like you just got a tire rotation and that's why your skid plate bolts were not touched.

 

Yep. My dealer did the same thing to me. I asked them to change it at 5000 because that’s what I wanted. I get two free services and I’m choosing when I want them. They didn’t do it. They also didn’t lube my prop shaft like I asked them to. I know because the paint wasn’t removed off the zerk fittings. fuggers

 

Yep. It could be an honest mistake since synthetic oil on almost every engine bumps it to a 10,000 mile interval, but not for the 5.7L FFV. Bottom line, the customer shouldn’t know more than the tech about basic maintenance.

 

I worked as a Mercedes Tech for 25 years and in many dealers. Made it all the way to master guild for the last 5 or so years. Master guild is top 30 in the nation.
I will say right now, 7 out of 10 certified techs are really hacks that only sell you what they know how to do and not what you need.
I was just at the Toyota dealer in my town 2 weeks ago asking about the 60K major service more rather a transmission flush,. I was told it is not due until 110,000 miles. Knowing better I ordered 12 quarts of Toyota WS transmission oil. They delivered 6 quarts of WS and 6 quarts of T-IV. Can you imagine me rebuilding a perfectly good transmission in 9 months if this guy was the tech and put it in my transmission. Anyway, the flush is easy just look it up on youtube. The oil that came out was well due so if I waited onother 50,000 miles my transmission life would be greatly reduced.
Basically it boils down to: If you are very skilled at working on your truck, than do it your self because nobody cares like you care for your truck.
However if you doubt your skill set and or tool set, you need to do a lot of looking and reviewing to find a trustable mechanic and even than, they can make mistakes.

 

Did you disconnect the trans cooler lines and suck it through that way?

 

I have the tow package. The top hose at the oil cooler is the return to the transmission. Make sure your truck is level (use level on bed or factory running boards.) Crack your fill to make sure you can. Crack your check plug as well. Drain and measure how much comes out of the pan and refill with fresh in the same amount.
Remove the top oil cooler hose. place a 3/8 clear hose on the oil cooler outlet (don't worry about the hose, it will only drip a little).
Bypass the temperature control valve on the right side of the transmission by pushing in the plunger and inserting a paper clip.
Start engine cold and let a couple quarts pump out, turn off and fill, repeat until all 12 quarts are in the transmission.
Note, only remove 11.5 quarts that way you are 1/2 quart over full. Re connect transmission cooler hose. Next and this is important. first run 2 minuets to fill the oil cooler turn off and pull the bypass pin and run for a minuet or 2 to again. turn off. Now bridge the correct pins on the OBD diagnostic socket and activate the dash display to read temperature of transmission. Engine will be running when you activate OBD, run until the light comes on (2008/9) flashing is to hot cool and start over. Off is to cold. when the light comes on/transmission is at the correct temperature, pull the check oil level plug and drain off the excess oil until very small stream is running out, not drops, reinstall check oil level plug. you are done, torque all plugs to specs. note learn to activate obd before you perform. Also, go watch the videos on youtube first to understand the procedure

 

see reply above

 

Thanks! I need to do mine and have been contemplating doing it myself or taking it to the dealer. What's the exact temp for the trans check? I have an ultragauge so it will be easy for me to check temp.

 

go watch the youtube video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLVZSoKbyZ0
About 2/3rds of the way through the correct temperature for a 2008/9 is either mentioned or view able by pausing the video and reading the written instructions. Even if your truck is newer, this will give you a lot of info but you may need to do a little more research to see if you have different features or specs

 

Just changed my oil for the first time. Took over 8 qts. About 8.5 quarts. Anyone else experience this?

 

Should be 7.9 quarts. I put 8

 

One of the dealers I used to go to in Florida had a customer viewing area where you could walk down a center aisle in the maintenance building and stop at the bay where your vehicle was being worked on. I always knew what was being done. That dealer has since moved to a new facility and I haven't been there yet - so don't know if they still do it.

 

now that is cool and it tends to prove honesty

 

If cold it will read low when full.
Put in 7.5 quarts. Warm up all the way on level ground, turn off, wait 60+ seconds and than check.
top off as needed

 

What is a decent torque wrench you would suggest? A lot of the ones I’m seeing only go down to 10 ft. pounds. I’m looking at Lowe’s but not seeing anything that fits the ticket.

 

The manual changed between '14 and '18 (not sure when), with your '19 you are correct 8.5 qts.

 

What is the spec you're looking to achieve? To be most accurate, you would want a torque wrench in which your torque specifications falls in the middle of it's range.

I personally have snap-on and matco torque wrenches, but I made my living with them and could not justify the price otherwise...

Here's a cheap option from harbor freight:

 

Which engine/transmission do you have? Temperature is different depending on transmission.

Edit: @Alloutdrs1 On more careful reading, I see you have the tow package, 5.7L w AB60E/F transmission. Fluid check temperature for the AB60 transmission is between 99-111 degs at the transmission fluid temp sensor. For that reason, it may actually be better to use the "bridge the terminals method" or Techstream. Infrared temp measurement at other locations may not be accurate, but that's just my opinion.