Weird vibration.

I got a 02 tundra 4.7L 4x4. I got off of work and filled my tank. Went home passed out. No problems what so ever. No maintenance due either. Anyways next day I start it up and its grumbling.
I thought nothing of it. Started to drive off and its rough. Truck is shaking and grumbling like its missing. So I changed the spark plugs. No joy. Then I changed the air filter, fuel filter, and cleaned the air solenoid. No joy. No codes still. Ran the tank empty and put new fuel and another filter on and it got a little better.
If I put the petal to the floor it has tons of power and no vibration. It's super smooth. If I lightly accelerate then it violently vibrates. Also vibrates in park. So I know its not the u joint because the driveshaft is disengaged in park. Runs smooth coasting. If I let off the gas the vibration stops immediately. Sounds like its fuel or air deprived.
No codes so I have no idea what part I need to change.

 

Did you clean the throttle body?

 

I have not. I will try it and let you know soon.

 

Torque converter?

 

Isnt the torque converter disengaged in park also?

 

I guess so

 

MAF Sensor?

 

Advance has it for $55. I can try it next.

 

I cleaned the maf sensor. It usually spits a code, but I cleaned it anyway.

 

Distributor cap/distributor.
Ignition coil?
All of these can cause misfire

 

I dont have a distributor. I do have ignition coils which read fine for voltage. Also when they go bad it throws a code. I still read them out. I am gonna try to get the torque converter tomorrow and see if that work. Tonight after work I am gonna clean the throttle body. Last night I hooked the pressure gauge up to see if the fuel pump was giving proper pressure. Which it was.

 

Yeah check the throttle body. If its gunked up it wont allow air to pass through in idle. Remove it and use a whole can of cleaner on it. I had a ford one time that would die if i turned the wheel all the way to the left in idle. Turns out the power steering pump was putting more stain on the engine. Cleaning the throttle body fixed that issue.

 

So more clueless then ever. I cleaned the throttle body and air intake part of the manifold. Which wasnt that dirty but there was build up. I also cleaned the pcv. Its was sitting right on top. Loads of oil caked in it. Now the vibration at idle in park is almost not noticeable. When you slowly rev in park you can feel it but its not as bad. When you rev it fast its smooth. Now its gets worse the faster you go. So from 0-15mph its not noticeable. 20mph you start to feel it. 40 and up its a violent shake but only idling at 40 and 50. Or slowly increasing speed will cause it to shake. Press the pedal to the floor. She lifts the front tires off the ground and freaking goes. Burned rubber but it didnt shake at all. Its so smooth at fast accelerations.

So my buddy who was a mechanic at a shop. Not a certified one, but still knows a lot about cars. He pulled each ignition coil for second to see which is probably miss firing. The engine automatically fixes the roughness. It doesnt even throw a light.
So he gave up and said its probably the iac or the exhaust leak not allowing back pressure. He said its 100% the engine not the tranny.

I think I am gonna try the IAC next. I know about back pressure but its after both cats. I dont think I am to worried about an exhaust leak. Most red necks have cat backs no issues. Even hollow cats.

 

There was a guy on here who was having similar problem and it turned out his gas station had switched the regular gas for diesel. So messed up.

 

Did you test your Throttle Position Sensor? It will definitely cause speed-related issues where some speeds are great and others suck. And they are pretty easy to check and cheap to replace.

 

Torque Converter?

 

It sounds like the carrier bearing, but you were able to reproduce the same symptoms while in park, right? And then the shaking goes away if you let off the gas?

The idle air control valve shouldn't be causing issues while driving, or at least in my experience. But it shouldn't be hard to check.

So... Is it possible there was old gas in the fuel tank still?

Maybe a belt tensioner.

 

It ran fine, you filled it up, it ran like shit.....it's related to the fill up somehow is the best bet. A very bad tank of gas or something bad in it. I would drain the tank, replace the fuel filter and fill with known good gas and see what you get.

Your symptoms also sound similar to a 2002 Tacoma I had that had a timing belt jump a few teeth...but my money is on the gas...

 

I did check the throttle position sensor when I cleaned the throttle body. I also cleaned the connector. Cleaned both connectors on the iac. Problem though was iac has corroded phillips screws. I dont want to strip them. So I went and got some pb blaster so tonight I can take it apart and clean it.

No diesel. Its on a seperate dispenser that is green. You also have to hit the diesel button which is also green and seperate from the gasoline buttons.
I have only put 87 in.
If the truck driver filled the tanks with diesel then maybe. I know 100% I didnt do it.

 

Those screws may have lock tite on them. Someone else maybe can chime in on that.
If it is, then its good to know ahead of time is why I'm mentioning it.

 

New update. Went and started it. Smells like burning metal. Put it in reverse and it was fine. Then moved into drive and it slammed gears. Then when I hit the pedal nothing happens. Even dropping the petal to the floor. Maybe a mistake I made.

 

Nothing happens as in the engine doesn't rev or nothing happens as in it does rev but the truck goes nowhere...?

 

I found it. I left the iac unpluged. Back to the original problem lol.

 

This is definitely a weird issue. Just to be clear, have you burned through the tank of fuel yet? Would it be beneficial to drain the tank and start over?

 

I have. I initially just changed the fuel filter. Then I burned up half the tank. Refilled it. Had the issue still so I burned up the entire tank. Put lucas in it. Then filled the tank and changed the filter again.

 

Disintegrating Catalytic converter that is partially clogging the exhaust at lower engine speeds (grumbles as idle and vibrates), but get's blown to the side with greater pressure at higher engine speeds (pedal to the floor tons of power and no vibration)? Cats and start to disintegrate and not throw codes cause they are still functioning, just not the way intended. That is what my Tacoma with the jumped timing was initially diagnosed as, but with jumped timing it had no power at higher rpms...your's has the opposite issue.

 

You think pull them and blowing them out and soaking it in parts cleaner will help?

They are kind of an expensive buy.

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/diagnose-a-broken-catalytic-converter

"
To check if it's a clogged cat versus a bad oxygen sensor (when you don't have a check engine light), grab a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to an intake manifold vacuum line. Start the engine, let it idle, and check the reading on the gauge. This is your baseline vacuum. It varies by the engine but should be 16 to 21 inches of mercury.

Have a helper increase engine speed to 2500 rpm and hold. After a brief drop of a few seconds, the gauge needle should return to approximately the same vacuum. If the needle is slow to return, or stays low, the cat is blocked. Bear in mind that a rich-running condition may also foul the O2 sensor; conversely, bad readings from a failed O2 sensor may cause the rich-running condition in the first place."

 

I did a vacuum test. It failed. Found a soft line was collapsed. Replaced it. Then I got a check engine light. Drove it to advanced 3 ignition coils are feeding codes. Which I dont get. It never had codes before and they have voltage coming out. Fixing a vacuum line made them pop codes???????? I dont get it.
Anyways replaced them. The truck is fixed.

 

Thanks for the help and advice. I really appreciate you guys.