ICON Tundra 3.0

Just some SEMA snaps of the Tundra setups coming to your local dealer. *hint hint*

3.0 Tundra Coilover w/ secondary shock
RXT rear leaf springs
Bolt On Bumpstops
One of the rear shock options (bypass and smooth body available)

 

Some more shots. Also, yes, those are Icon's new 17" Tundra wheels. Another option for those who aren't looking for Methods.

 

damn ! solid setup.

 

nice rims too.

 

Icon LCA as well?

 

Stock LCA. The secondary system is going to much like the Tacoma. It will be a lower control arm skid plate with the secondary shock mount on it.

 

What is the setup with the rear bumps- i know a handful wanting to add bumps but not have to cut into the bed. Still waiting on ADS to make a prototype set to test

 

These will be 100% Bolt-On with no cutting of the bed required. We will be ordering the first shipment of all the new ICON Tundra products. Once I have pricing, we can start doing a pre-order if you want to be one of the first guys to have these.

 

Then my truck would really be Frankenstein - King, Icon, ADS and just need Fox - maybe my secondary bypasses up front could be swapped for Fox.
Yeah let me know because i would love to test those out. Been waiting on ADS to get me a set they are making to test but nothing yet.

 

you guys get new stuff and send me your old stuff. its a win-win! my Platinum shocks have to go before I get wheels and tires. see my issues...ahhh its just money right???

 

Icon has been testing these with their 3.0 RXT Setup for about 3-4 months. ICON also makes Secondary shocks for the Camburg LT! We have them on our shop truck

 

We can get you set up with new stuff too

 

3.0 Icons look to be available in February.

 

So sick!

 

@sdhq_offroad what about the rear leaf springs are they a full set up and not a add a leaf set up?

 

It will be a completely new rear pack designed for their RXT rear shock they are releasing. It will be a more performance oriented leaf pack. If it is like their Raptor RXT kit, they will include a few "extra" leafs to help increase the towing capabilities.

 

do you think they would work with king rears also or are they only going o make them compatible with there equipment

 

I'm not sure yet. I don't have any travel number specifics. From what I have been hinted at, it will not work with a stock replacement shock because it is going to have more travel overall in both bump and droop.

 

sounds about right make a bunch of products that all require your gear to use.

 

The lower mount is completely different on the shocks itself because they are doing everything 100% bolt on. So the new lower amount allows for more shock travel itself.

 

yeah i saw the mount on the lower part of the shock. that is a pretty wild look.

 

I wish there was a way to extend the rear bump stop down to work with my bracket lift.

 

Extending the rear bump only reduces your up travel. what would you want reduced up travel? Unless your shock isn't spec'd properly.

 

At full stuff of the rear tire, there's still a huge distance from where the bump stops would mount to the top of the leaf spring perches.

 

So you are saying that you removed your rear bumps? I trimmed about an inch off the rear bumps and still use all the uptravel. Not sure what your setup is but you should be able to stuff to the bumps, if not what it hitting before the bumps? Maybe its the 37's and if that is the case a bigger tire isn't and advantage over more travel. I run with 2 spares, RTT and a few hundred pounds of gear when off-roading and never have an issue. I have 400lbs of preload on my Deavers and carry about 600-700lbs total.

 

How is your rear lifted? If it's all from a block then you'd either lift the bump on axle or lower the bumpstop plate on the frame pretty close to that same thickness as the block. I'd personally go with lowering the plate on the frame and reinforcing/boxing it in.

If it's a mix of block and shackle or lifted springs and/or shackles it's just a little more work figuring out the amount you would need to drop the plate on the frame.

Whenever I'm setting up bumpstops after I've got the springs dialed, I'll measure total pack thickness and strip the leaf springs down to just the main leafs and cut a block of wood to equal out to total pack thickness. Then bolt it all back together with just the main leafs and the blocks. Now it's really easy to articulate the rear suspension with a floor jack and the frame on jackstands.

Usually I'm setting up the bump stops so that they start to compress about an inch or 2 ( depending on your bump stops squishiness) before the spring pack starts to go negative arch but that's on rock crawlers. I'm guessing your tires are rubbing before the spring even gets all the way flat?

If that's the case then it's just the same thing as setting the bump stop up to about 2" before the tire starts to rub. The only problem with this set up is that it allows the droop side to extend even further so it can cause the stuffed tire to tilt in even more so it's a lot of back and forth from each side setting it up.

Hope that made sense. Oh, can you weld? If not make friends with one and get him to help you out on the weekend. You can do the majority of the work before he shows up and keep his time to a minimum.

 

I have 4.5" (over stock) Atlas leaf packs (their "expedition" rated springs). No use of blocks. I also have +3" shackles for an extra ~1.65" of lift to help with all the weight I carry daily in the back, which is about ~500 (on trips it is closer to 800).



I do like the idea of lowering (that's what I meant by extending) the plate for the bumps. The tires rub on the bedsides at stuff but I'm going remedy that with more cutting this weekend, especially since I'm going to try and fit 40s under there soon.

Nah, I don't know how to weld yet. It's on my list of things to do because I want to make my own parts.

 

Is moving up to 40's really worth it? Whats the benefit? You will be gaining like 1/2 inch of sidewall height? Then you are dramatically increasing the rolling mass. Rear end is going to hate you unless you regear at the exact same time. We ran 4.88 in our Tundra with 37's and wish that they offered something like a 5.12.

Going to a 39 or 40, it also really limits the tire choices as I recall also. Then from there I think Toyo was the only company (that I would run) where you had more than the 17" wheel option.

 

Worth it for my needs. That's up to 1.5" of extra clearance semi-aired down. I know there's going to be extra weight at each corner. With the wheels/tires I'm going to upgrade to (40s on 20s from 37s on 18s), the total weight extra over what I currently have is only like ~4lbs at each corner. The supercharger helps more than enough currently but I do plan on regearing really soon (probably even before I go to 40s). The important thing here is I'm not building a desert romper. My truck is for expedition-style trips. Performance speed-wise isn't my main concern. MPG is even less -- though I'm still getting 14mpg. The torque provided by the supercharger is more than enough to move the fat tires.





The tires I'm most likely going with after tons of research are Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ P3 in 40/14.5r20:
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fi...=32442&ar=14.50&rf=true&rd=20&rc=CCEINT&cs=40