Need some advice on a repair for P0418

So I signed up with this forum yesterday strictly to ask about the problem I just ran into. I got a check engine light (P0418). The truck is performing normally. With everything I’ve read on here, it seems to me that my valve may be stuck open. I have also learned that this system is only necessary at start up, and means nothing in terms of emissions and performance when the truck is warmed up. I’ve read up on the bypass kits, doing the repair yourself, and the repeat failures of the replaced AIP. My question is, did I dodge the bullet here- or is my truck going to go into limp mode one day?

There is more to this story, because I suspect an electrical or a computer problem. 3 weeks ago, I let the dealership replace both front and rear pads and rotors. The next day, all the lights came on on the dash (VSC, ABS, 4 HI, etc). I brought it back and they told me it was the rear wheel speed sensor. I checked both rear sensors and wiring, and everything was fine. Driving around later that day, I got a rough idle, flickering dash lights, and a stall. I knew it was the battery, so I replaced it along with the lugs and hold down (major corrosion! They couldn’t have pointed that out to me?) I also replaced a broken ground strap on the transmission near the speed sensor harness. That issue with the ABS has since been corrected, but I can’t help but think that the failing battery made the computer go wacky. The truck is 12 years old and has had a minimum of problems. It seems like too much of a coincidence that all these things happened together.

 

Have you read all this?
https://www.tundras.com/search/1792047/?q=P0418&t=post&o=date

 

I haven’t! There’s a lot of homework there. I’ll check it out. Thanks.

 

I have read through a lot of the links above, and most of that is stuff I researched or ran into before posting. I’m still not clear if the truck is going to go into limp mode though. Seems it doesn’t happen to everyone (this is starting to sound like a conversation you have with your doctor- did they have to call it limp mode?). Another thing I’m not clear on, is why would the engine limit power while driving, if this system is only needed at start up?

 

You have almost 250 hits and three replies.. I'd wager you have people's interest but they simply don't have advice, need more codes, or would need to do some research and couple it with personal experiences to provide a meaningful reply.

I'm reading on the link.. Curious.

 

2010 Sequoia with 5.7 here.

CEL came on with the P0418 code but not in limp mode.
Every link I looked has not explained to me what I need to replace.
Where is the AIP located on this thing?

 

In my first gen, it did go to limp mode very briefly, but I carry a scanner to erase the code. I did it for a few thousand miles and it never came back. In the fist gen it's under the intake manifold. Second gen I believe is behind the motor and water gets into it casing it to seize.

AIP

Watch the video

 

*UPDATE*

First off, I didn't take any pics, so apologies for that.

The AIP turns out, is located behind the passenger side fender.
Bought new grommets for the plastic liner and a off brand pump from Amazon.

$9 Rexka 25pcs Fender Liner Clips Screw Grommet Retainer Compatible with Toyota 90189-06214 Tacoma Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B638VF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

17610-0S010 Smog Pump Air Pump Secondary Air Injection Pump Compatible with Toyota Sequoia Tundra 2007-2013 Lexus LX570 Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2013, 4.6L 4.7L 5.7L V8, 176100S010 33-2504M

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YTQYDVH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I followed a couple youtube links on pulling the liner off, 4 screws (12mm) that hold the bracket for both pumps, disconnect 2 hoses and 2 plugs from up top, and pull it all through from the passenger side wheel well.

Dealer wanted over $700 for each pump and about $300 for labor.
All in for me was $100 and about 3 hrs of my time. Amazon next day Prime helped a ton as well.

Easy work.

Jim

 

i have an '07 and was getting the dreaded P2443 code (stuck closed check valve). i replaced both pumps first since thats where the problem typically starts. both pumps were dry and bench tested fine. i replaced them anyway. i also replaced the snorkel; mine had the old style without the "deflector". that took care of the P2443 code. I also used Amazon. the job wasn't bad. i wa reluctant to tear into the intake manifold for the check valve. if it reoccurs im going th bypass it all!! damn the torpedoes!!

 

I would not replace or have the valves replaced. I would opt for a a bypass kit.
If done proactively the exhaust blocking plates are not needed which makes job much easier.

 

Trooper2 (comment #10) talks about the bypass kit. According to what the computer is telling me, one of my valves is stuck closed. Is the bypass kit a permanent fix or is it just temporary?

 

The bypass kit is a permanent fix. It basically deletes the function of this un-needed system.

 

2007 4.7L with P0418

Already replaced valve and block off plate one side (original stuck open side). And bypass. My AIP still kicks on every startup. PID for air intake shows bypass working. But system still turns on. And now I have P0418. Going to do the valve and block off on the other bank. But AIP going to fail eventually if keeps turning on.
Must note I'm in CA so I have extra layers of head smacking when smog time comes (this year)