Oil Change FAIL

So...when changing your oil, make sure the O ring doesn’t split when screwing the filter housing back on.

Take 1: I “upgraded” to the OEM metal oil filter housing and added a Fumoto valve. I swapped out the vented tube that is centered in the housing and used a K&N filter. Added Mobil1 0W-20 and fired up the truck and backed out of the garage just to see 8.5qts of synthetic crap all over the concrete.

Take 2: more Mobil1 and a Mobil1 filter (I reverted to the original plastic filter housing—don’t know if the metal one was the cause of the O ring failure but I didn’t want another $45 in oil staining the driveway.

Buttoned everything up and slapped on a new RCI skid plate (their instructions sucked royally).

Done!

 

What an effing mess. I'm sure you were . Dish soap and kitty litter with great on that. Must have not had the o ring seated properly and it got pinched.

 

Man, i am all about changing my own oil and doing my own work, but I couldn't pass up a deal yesterday.

I use a very trustworthy auto-shop complex here in Dallas/Fort Worth called Jeffrey's Automotive. Been a customer for over a decade. I had the truck aligned for $45 and they had a special for an oil change. 5 qts and filter for $20 using Castrol synthetic blend. 3 more quarts and it came out to $37 for the complete oil change. I can't even buy the oil and filter for that cheap!

 

Lambs tire and auto here in round Rock is doing the exact same sale.

 

Did you coat the O-ring with oil before screwing it down? I just did this swap a couple of days ago and made sure to apply a good layer of oil on both o-rings before screwing them down. Also did the fumoto valve which was a good thing because I had overfilled a little. Was able to drain a little out without any mess.

 

Definitely haven't found a deal like that out in Cali. I wouldn't change my own oil anymore if I found somewhere like that either.

 

Well after reading the OP's issue even with the valve and upgrades, I'll keep going as long as they run the sale. I hate the fact the Tundra drains sideways, high pressure, straight into the wheel!


now...my 2004 cavalier commuter with 200k miles gets the "whatever is the cheapest oil at the auto parts store" - usually around 12 bucks lol.

 

Wait... you had INSTRUCTIONS?!?!?!


Actually, thinking back, I guess there were instructions for the Trans/x-fer case skid, just bc it has that mounting bracket. For the front, Im not sure I had instructions. Take off tow hooks,
Lift the skid up and align with these holes... The rest of the holes show you exactly where the remaining hardware goes.

 

Looking at the picture the distance from the garage to the driveway can't be 50'. I can't get my head around how all 8.5 quarts left the engine for a direct flight to the concrete driveway when it's suspected that the filter housing O ring was a bit out of kilter. What am I missing here?

Or is the OP embellishing a bit (understandable given the immense frustration this had to have caused)?

 

Sorry but i had to LOL. I would go to a janitorial supply ASAP and buy a gallon of a good degreaser and a stiff bristle scrub brush that you can attach to a broomstick.

 

Not all drained out but I had to remove the oil filter which effectively drained the rest. It was about 20’ with a small swimming pool of juice on the garage floor

 

yikes! Was scared to do my first one, also changed to aluminum housing also metal tube was changed, I've never had that issue

 

I changed to the alyoominimum and then changed to the Jowett Performance and have not had OH ring problems either.