Mushy brake pedal but brakes work fine...

Correct me if I am wrong, but you are hinting at a connected cable interface, between a laptop and the OBD port, with the laptop running the software on the cd (or downloaded) that makes the laptop, in effect, a scanner which one could use to test the vehicle's systems, and adjust the ABS for example? All for $28, provided one has a laptop at their disposal? And this TechStream software, is it the software being supplied with the cable, or is it another download?

If this query is anything close to correct, we may have a winner, Mr. Festerw.

 

Correct, and the software is included.

I've never used it myself but if you do a quick search of the forum it's popular for 2nd and 3rd gen owners to change options on their trucks without a dealer visit.

 

Again I am in your debt, whether this plays out or not, and it certainly looks most favorable. All at a price point I can afford. I will be looking very closely for the next couple of hours before ordering. Thank you.

 

Be sure to do thorough due diligence.

I have looked at these and followed hundreds of thread pages on another forum. Some of these bootleg TechStream sets are compatible only with 32bit laptops, and others are suitable for both 32bit and 64bit operating systems.

There are two versions of firmware, the latest version being 2.0.4. Some users had problems with the earlier version 1.4.1. Included software versions vary with these sets...the latest version I saw today was 14.10.028. All software should be backwards compatible to older trucks, but the latest version will be necessary for 2018/2019 trucks. Some hacked software versions are limited to changing only imbedded ECU settings. ABS bleeding, even key fob programming, will be beyond their capability. Ask the seller before buying. I would buy the one with the most reviews, and the highest rating.

Good luck. Anxiously awaiting your experience.

Edit: @marbleville The versions with the most reviews and highest ratings also tend to be the most expensive choices available. The version I liked was about $70, but that is about the same as what you were expecting to pay for other scanners.

 

JLakeman...Thanks for the heads-up and tips, I'll use both in my quest today, putting off any purchase for later. My son, 31, back from the Army and Afghanistan, was into the servers and such with the signals corps, and pretty good with a lot of the tech stuff with computers and communicating between devices. His specialty was satellite communications. With the stuff you've passed to me and his help, I may be able to get this working, following the few detours and dead ends of the past several weeks or so.

I've only been a member of this forum for a couple of weeks, but the knowledge I have gained in such a short time towards my Tundra's care is remarkable and wholly unexpected. Truly my hat is off to a wonderful group of young men who care for more than just their truck, but also for others like themselves on this great ride. I do tip my hat in earnest regard.

 

Any update? Just bought a 2005 Double Cab and the pedal feels squishy but I haven't had a chance to do much with it yet.

 

Still waiting on some definitive word on a couple affordable scanners that reportedly do ABS bleeding. I probably won't bite until next month, after spending my budget on several impact drivers/wrenches and impact socket sets, extra batteries, torque wrenches, etc. Tooling up for a summer of Tundra fix'em ups.

 

Ran into this issue also seen this thread is still somewhat new did you ever figure it out?

 

No, still in the works. I believe I have ruled out most suspects except the master cylinder, and quite possibly the rear brake drums, though that seems to be a long shot. I've been distracted of late, and since my brakes work find, short of the excess travel, I've simply put other matters ahead of it. I'll probably replace the rear drums before tackling the MC, or at least take them in and have them mic'ed to determine if oversize. Then, if necessary, I will attack the MC.

 

my whole rear end is new drums rotors pads e brake and i still have the issue im gonna buy a m.c ive noticed my front pads are wearing uneven and one of my steel lines is a bit kinked gonna try that bypassnon the m.c had a friend point me in that direction too no work will be done until weekene will post my progress

 

How well does your parking brake work?

The parking brake is what adjusts your drum brakes, but only if it itself is adjusted properly.

 

Im having the same issue with my 03. My parking brake could use some adjustment. I'll start there. Great info, thank you!

 

I have an 05 Tundra DC and my brakes have sucked since day one when I bought this truck brand new. No one has ever been able to figure out why the brakes are so bad. Rear drums cannot help the problem. Have often wondered if there is a conversion setup to go to disc? I added disc's to an older Land Cruiser but never a modern ABS truck.

 

Thought I'd share with those who wants to purchase the autel or techstream for the sole purpose of abs bleeding option. I purchased the Autel Maxicheck and the techstream and both does not have the option to do the ABS bleeding for my 04 DC. Not sure if it applies to 1st gen's or just my 04 DC. I also took my truck over to an indy toyota shop who uses techstream and they mentioned abs bleeding was not offered for my year truck.

 

ABS bleeding is not a thing, at least not on these trucks. Does not exist. Cannot be done. Does not need to be done.

There is, people talk about it here from time to time.

 

Good feedback info here.

Are you currently having a brake problem?

 

I replaced my master cylinder, replaced the rear brake cylinders and shoes, adjusted them properly, and adjusted the LSPV. That solved my issue.

 

I now know. It’s ok though, I’ve been wanting to buy a scanner for the longest time, so it worked out perfectly.

Giving those who might be wanting to make a purchase for the sole purpose of abs bleeding a heads up is all.
I am, my brakes works ok but if it’s depressed for 5-10 sec’s I can feel the pedal lowering towards the floor. If I pump it, I get pressure back and the cycle repeats.

I’ve done the same. Ive also replaced both the fronts w new rotors, new pads, SS brake lines and rebuilt calipers. Flushed the brake fluid twice and bleed the LSVP as well. Only other thing I haven’t replaced is the brake booster.

 

Curious if anyone tried stainless braided brake lines and if made a difference on the Tundra.
Had a 2000 Tundra and now a 2003 Tundra and never really had any complaints about the brakes. But maybe they seemed great to me because I also have a 2003 4Runner. Since new that has always had sort of spongy brakes. Shops always said normal and no problems. Last year after reading a tip I added changed the rubber brake lines to stainless. Did not expect much but at this age never hurts to replace things. And I can very easily afford to since the 4runner has been trouble free all these years. Was surprised it made a noticeable difference. All these years now happy with them.

Think would not hurt on the Tundra, but again those always seemed normal to me and worked fine.

 

I recently swapped out my lines for stainless steel. It did not improve braking performance at all.

 

This is backed up by 15 years of internet readings as far as what I have read. Sounds good in theory, but nobody says, ‘My god its the cure!’.

Until now. Maybe the fresh fluid with the 4 Runner lines helped?

 

Mostly likely it was just a thorough bleeding.

 

For my Sequoia, I didn’t have the luxury of feeling the brakes like they did from the factory. But along with pads, rotors, a new master cylinder along with braided brake lines in the front, they feel awesome! Obviously the master cylinder was the main culprit. I had changed to braided hoses before I changed the master. But once I got it all squared away, they do feel really really good. For me the braided lines were just something to upgrade since they needed to be replaced anyways. I couldn’t imagine they would help you to stop better, but probably give you a better solid feel through the brake pedal.

 

Sure, when doing all that I can see why you would see an improvement. But just swapping the lines alone didn't do anything for me. @Darkness nailed it when he said that most of the improvement one feels is from bleeding the system and getting fresh fluid in.

 

Those that have swapped master cylinder's and have had their brakes fixed, are you guys using aftermarket or OEM?

 

2005 DC tundra -

had it for about 3 years now and has always had an unimpressive brake feel. Had it properly bled at the dealer with the computer etc. Same feel.

FINALLY found this thread and followed the instructions on page 1 and BAM the braking is amazing.

Definitely follow the tightening of the parking brake cable before taking any other actions. It takes 10 minutes and barely any tools.

If your parking brake pedal is clicking more than 10 times (spec) then it is out of adjustment and not allowing rear brake the atomically adjust.

Thanks!

 

Roy, did u ask how the brakes were adjusted by your mechanic? I'm under the impression that the only adjustment that can be made is to the rear brake drums. I've tried that and It helped very little. I'm not sure where to start with solving my mushy brake pedal problem. I read somewhere that replacing the brake lines has solved the issue with some owners.

 

Bleed the brakes at the Load Sensing Proportion Valve.

 

Yep. Its why its a sticky thread now. Every couple of months someone has this problem with the parking brake.