Considering 35x12.50r20 tires? Read this first.

So I wrote a short review of my 35x12.50r20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Short story, they are almost perfect minus the weight (and price). Most 35x12.50r20 tires are well in the 70 something pound range. My Nitto Ridge Grapplers weigh 74 lbs in 35x12.50r20. After 8 months I would have done more research and got a lighter tire that is still the same height. Here is what I wish I had known BEFORE purchasing 35x12.50r20 tires:

35x12.50r20 (true size 34.8x12.5)
----------------------
Dick Cepek Trail Country EXP; 64 LBS; $298 (avg price), tread depth 18.5/32"

Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac; 63 lbs; $348; 18/32"

35x11.50r20 (34.5"x11.4")
-----------------------
Nitto Trail Grappler G2; 59 lbs; $326 ; 17/32"

295/65R20 (35.1"x11.77")
--------------------
Nitto Terra Grappler G2; 61 lbs; $362; 17/32"

285/65R20 (34.6"x11.50")
---------------------
Cooper Discover AT3 XLT; 62 lbs; $330; 16/32"

Nitto Terra Grappler G2; 59 lbs; $338; 15/32"

Nitto Ridge Grappler (34.8"x11.5"); 64 lbs; $371; 17/32"

So the lightest award is a tie between the 35x11.50r20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 and the 285/65r20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 at 59 lbs each. I would give the edge to the 35x11.50 size though as it has deeper tread (17/32" vs 15/32") and it is a little cheaper as well.

The most aggressive, largest and cheapest (out of lightweight tires) award goes to Goodyear DuraTrac in 35x12.50r20 at $348 with a current $100 rebate on 4 tires.

Just thought I would post up some lightweight alternatives to the heavier 35x12.50r20 tires. Hope it helps someone else.

 

Great specs to help people out. I'd like to add...

Falken Wildpeak AT3s 305/65-18 @ 66lbs $863

 

I went with ridge grapplers in 35x11.50r20. I would have probably needed a BMC and had a lot of tire past the fender if I went 12.50

 

I did a write up on this website on how I put 35x12.50 tires on Bilstein 6112 set at only 2" lift, +25 offset 20x9 wheels, and a custom alignment and I have zero rubbing, even off road, with out a body mount chop. I did have to trim about a inch off the "ear" of the skid plate on the passenger side. My tires wear perfectly even with the custom alignment. It just rotates the tire slightly forward in the fender well (away from the body mount).

 

The row that says "actual" is what you want your alignment set at. The important part is the part in red. Their machine will tell them that its out of alignment, but in reality its just moving the tire forward. It doesn't effect the wear at all.

 

FYI I managed to snag my 35x11.5x20 G2’s for under 1k shipped.

Simple Tire was offering 15% off plus Ebates. No tax and free shipping. Think it was around $970 when all said and done.

 

I have used Simple Tire in the past and their prices have been great and usually cheaper than anything else I can find.

 

I like your caster numbers. I've kinda apprenticed myself to @papasmurf and one of his credos is that we should get as much caster as possible.

 

True, generally you want about .5* more on the right than left to counteract the crown in the road. Also, not sure why the toe is green 'cause it's out of spec. .12 each side for a total of .24 is spec for Tundra. with out expensive tires I prefer as little toe as possible.

 

Yeah I spoke to a buddy of mine who has 35x11.50 G2's on his 2010 Tundra 5.7L 4x4 with 180k miles on it. He said he averages 14 mpg. I can not get better than 10.8 mpg with my 2014 Tundra 4x4 5.7L, 34k miles, with my 35x12.50 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. We both drive about the same, not very aggressive but not like a grandma either. We both go about 75 mph on the freeway too. Not being able to even hit 11 mpg is irritating! I think I am going to swap to the G2's soon. Might just sell these Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I spoke to a guy at the local grocery store last night who was driving a Wrangler JK 4 door rolling on 40" tires and asked him what he gets on his gas mileage. He said he averages 18 mpg. He said his wife who was with him has the same Wrangler but on 37s and he said she gets 19 mpg. How does a wrangler on 40s get 7 mpg better than my Tundra on 35s? Beyond irritating.

 

Wrangler guy is not being entirely truthful...

 

Thats what I am hoping. I wonder if he regeared if he would get that? I would imagine with 40s he had to regear. I personally have no experience with regearing to know if it brings your mileage back to some degree. But see as how my tires were tucked inside my wheel wells before, and my front bumper had an air dam before, and now my 35s sit out from my truck about 1.5" and the front bumper is a high clearance winch bumper now, i think those alone would create a lot more drag on the freeway, despite if i regear or not.

 

Don't expect to get good fuel economy with a Tundra and you will never be disappointed.

 

If Toyota doesn't address fuel economy on the Tundra the next model, I think they are going to hurt sales. The number one complaint I hear is the gas mileage. My buddy with his 2010 Tundra 4x4 5.7L is literally selling his Tundra to get a Nissan Titan 4x4 with a diesel specifically because of the gas mileage. Now he is being offered $18k for his 2010 Tundra (which is paid off) and planning to buy a lightly used 3 year old Titan so the price isn't ridiculous. He tows a lot though taking trips with his boat or side by side and atvs.

 

And he will hate that truck I maybe wrong but that motor is not even that great.

 

I went with the Duratracs last Nov. Was on MT Deegan-38s
To be clear, I'm running 35x12.5 R20.

While I'm OR a good bit in the fall hunting, etc., I obviously see more pavement/highway than anything. The Mickey's didn't last two years...started chunking and wearing unevenly. Needless to say, the A/T's are much more practical.

All said, I've been super stoked with the Duratracs!! They also have reports of great wear life. If I can keep them for several years, I'll be happy.

Regarding the mileage that others have reported, I wonder if they're going off of the truck readout or hand calculation? The fact is that larger tires run farther than the odometer actually says...so there is a 'potential' to have better mpgs that the truck says.
The other consideration would be if they had new gears...which on 35's and up is a good option to consider.

 

I don't know. My understanding is its a diesel built by Cummins, and most diesel people will tell you they build some of the best diesels around.

 

I agree on A/Ts are better, I use to run mud tires on my older Tundra and I swapped them back to Cooper AT3s and it rode so much better. Gas mileage improved, the acceleration was better, tires were cheaper, and they last 3 times as long. They still do decent for the little offroading I do (going to deer camp, beach, camping, etc).

I think heavy 35s need to be regeared, but I think a light weight 35 like a Nitto G2 in 35x11.50 is probably the max I would go without regearing. Pretty much any tire over 60 lbs.

 

yes sir; i had a '17 titan. bought as a rash decision after losing EVERYTHING during harvey in houston.

got rear ended so hard it racked the frame 3/4" out of square; glad to rid myself of that piece of crap.

btw... had a '05 titan; bombprooof.

the nissan cummins IS NOT the same that dodge has under contract. it is a much smaller engine, and as i understand, rejected for use by other manufacturers.

please be THAT FRIEND and tell your buddy to visit titantalk before making a final decision. read about the regen probs. read about the transmission probs.

nissan titan has been offering HUGE discounts; they're not doing well right now and have too many unhappy customers.

the 2nd gens are junk.

i LOVED my 1st gen titan; i HATED my 2nd gen.

more than excited to have a tundra parked in my drive; have NEVER enjoyed a pickup as much as this one.

could not fathom a shift from tundra to titan over a couple mpg's...

 

I will tell him what you said. Sorry to hear about Harvey. I was in the middle of Harvey myself in Houston. I drove my 1st Gen 4x4 Tundra with a lift and snorkel around in it helping a lot of people. We were out in the Cypress area. So many people needed help, felt like we didn't even make a dent. We were fortunate to not have any flooding in our home.

 

That's a true statement but the Cummins plant is down the road from where I live and the people that work their say it's not as tough of a motor as what the dodge has. Its built for fuel economy that's about it.just what I have heard.

 

35s and bigger....dont re gear, better to just drop the supercharger on it to get back to sticker mpgs.

 

I ended up selling my Tundra. Ran across some rich boy who was into overland, and was planning on buying a Tundra like mine and building it up literally the way I had mine done. Mine was even the color he wanted. For what he paid me, I profited $6,700, and basically drove the truck for free for 18 months. Now I have to figure out what I want to get this time around. Honestly I wish I could just find 1st Gen 05-06 Tundra access cab 4x4 with under 120k miles. I really like the size of those Tundras, plus the 4.7 V8 with VVT (2005 & 2006) has plenty of power (to weight ratio) for that smaller Tundra and can tow anything I need it to. They are just about impossible to find without 250k+ miles. I could pay cash for one of those and just buy a nice newer Highlander to drive around day to day and get good MPG. Ive done the math and for what I was paying for my 3rd Gen Tundra (with gas and insurance as well), I can easily have a 1st Gen Tundra that I can actually wheel and use as a truck with out fear of scratches and dents, and get a Highlander as well for the better mpg daily, and ultimately be cheaper with both than my 3rd Gen Tundra. I wish the 4runner got a little better mpg and I would get one of those.

 

I was hunting a 1st gen before I found my 2014. Lowest mileage I found was 2006 with 165k for $10000

 

Yeah its kind of crazy how much the 1st Gens have retained their value. I have a 2005 Tundra 4x4 V8 automatic reg cab long bed that I put a level kit on, addicted offroad tube high clearance winch bumper with Engo 9k winch, Detroit Truetrac in the rear, skid row 1/4" steel skid plates, 285/75r16 (33"x11.50") Cooper AT3s with 135k miles. You can not get that truck stuck. I have gone down trails that buddies of mine get stuck on with their jeep wranglers with 33s.

It is in really good shape as the original owner who i purchased it from was a 78 year old man who just used it to tow his aluminum jon boat down to the river occasionally. It had 85k miles on it and been garaged kept its whole life when i bought it. I have kept meticulous maintenance on the truck, but definitely put some small scratches and dents in the paint from actually using it as a work truck. If it was an access cab, I would keep it the rest of my life (i live in Texas so rust isnt a issue). Unfortunately it being a regular cab, it no longer fits my family needs.

The problem is nobody took care of their access cabs like I took care of this regular cab. They either are pushing over 250k miles or its been poorly maintained. My 1st Gen has a ton of life left in it. Its very hard for me to part ways with because finding one in this condition is very difficult.

Ive thought about trying to build a rear cage over the bed, and mounting seats down in the bed, but the problem is beds sit up much higher than the inside of the cab, so in reality you need to put the bench seat on the bed floor, then cut a section of bed out, and build a lower portion about 16" lower for peoples feet to go in so their knees are not in their chest. Its doesn't seem simple. If I ever found someone who had already done this and had good pictures and hopefully a write up, I would definitely just do this to my current Gen 1.

 

Installed 35s.
No rubbing before alignment.
And now it’s rubbing against the front inner liner after alignment.
Here are my alignment specs

Any suggestions?

 

I had a aftermarket front bumper, but had I not changed it, many people recommended pushing the liner to the inside of the metal lip and screwing it back in that way (i believe it screws in normally with the liner on the outside of the metal bracing/lip. Ive also seen people recommend taking a heat gun (hair dryer on high holding in the rub spot close for 5 mins or so might work too) and then using a full coke/beer or a metal/glass bowl to creat a rounded impression to give the clearance needed to stop the rubbing. I personally did the heat gun method on an ATV fender I had 32" mudder in laws on. It worked very well. Ive also heard people say you can use boiling water in a small pan to heat up the plastic as well, though this method seems the scariest to me. You shouldn't need much pressure at all to change the shape, if it won't move with very gentle pressure, its not hot enough yet. Again you can try shoving the plastic to the "inside" and screwing it back in like that as well... hope this helps.

Oh by the way, you can buy a heat gun at harbor freight with a coupon for like $7. I have that exact one and been using it for years, suprised it still worked after a year for $7. Great tool for only $7.

If you use that heat gun (or any other), the low setting is all you need. Make sure you move it around frequently as they can melt stuff quick.

 

When in doubt, go 37’s

 

Don't forget 5.13 gears with those 37s. My 35s made my 5.7L a slug. Granted my 35s were one of the heaviest 35s made. Had I not been offered a ton of money for my truck (I sold it), I would have upgraded to at least 4.88s with my 35s. Or I would have swapped to 35x11.50 Nitto G2's (one of the lightest 35s made).