What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Discovered good news/bad news with doing yesterdays work. Bad news is the ‘heated mirrors’ require the actual assy, as in buy all new side mirror assys for $250 each (new).

Good news is if the actual mirror plates break they can be replaced relatively easy by pulling them off without removing the entire assy.

Tools needed to remove back plate are flat screw driver and 2 popsicle sticks.

 

You can try and fish 2 wires through your mirror housing.. that’s all that’s different

 

Thanks! I’m going to draw a new sketch of what think needs to happen based on your knowledge. Give me a minute.

 

I'm assuming that's Toyota pricing. FWIW I bought a TYC power/heated mirror for my 04 for $45. No discernable difference in quality besides the new one doesn't shake

 

The “two new wires” go to?

 

I’d have to pull up the diagram. But yes the 2 wires on the mirror are right, as for the connector it might be, in mine it’s on the 2 bottom connectors, but I have an 05.. I’ll take a peak when I get home from Indy. Won’t be till late though

 

I saw those when on a search. The OEM Toy are $250. Just the mirror ‘heated plate’ is $50 if bought separately.

Makes sense to just buy the entire assy $45. And yeah my drivers side shakes a little, but the pass side is good (new) as its been replaced due to a ‘recycle yard accident’ where a drunk backed into the mirror.

Now I just need to figure how to wire/switch these mirrors.

 

The wiring shouldn't be too bad to find but if your truck doesn't have defrost already it may be lacking the timer too. Keeping in mind I have no idea how they do it, whether it's a mechanical timer or built into the BCM or if the older trucks even have a BCM.

Either way this is an inexpensive alternative.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ThermaSync...r-Control-2712-by-Frost-Fighter-/173582593840

 

Not me, I have plenty of clearance on both sides but makes me think... @Rheywood456 did you encounter this?

 

Some $40 one(dont remember the brand off the top of my head but if had it for a year now and still bright as ever (ill update u one brand later)). Not in but on my bumper, just a curved 32 inch one. The origonal plan was to put it in my bumper in the little air channel for the radiator. But it would require cutting.

 

Yup. I did a little grinding down. That seems to be the only flaw with Total Chaos. If that’s the only flaw... I’m happy...

 

Cleaned up the truck now that pollen isn't as bad. Started cleaning the commuter as well..

 

Toying around with going clean bro look.

Also, here are some bumpstops I fabricated up a few weeks ago. Cut them in half and scalloped out the surface which will adhere to the OEM stop. Going to use an organic 2 part epoxy to glue the new right up to the OEM ones. Still unsure on doing this and leaning to do all 4 stops if so.

 

Autofeul brand light bar

 

If you decide to do it let me know. There’s a few little things that have to be changed to make the case work like replacing the trans output seal and a plate needs to be welded to the side of the case because the flange on the case and trans are slightly different.

 

‘4hi on the fly’ is a beautiful thing we have on our 1st Gens which was a selling point for me when I bought it.

As long as it works, I am not changing it. Exercise your 4hi button once or twice a week for a mile or two to keep the actuator in shape. I think many problems come from not using the 4hi and things sieze up in there once it comes to be needed.

The 4low actuator is separate from 4hi and needs exercise too?

 

X2 on this. It is really convenient and is pretty reliable when used on a regular basis. I would have kept mine if I still had a stock front axle.

 

I've always heard you should engage each about once a month.

 

What do you have? Solid front axle swap?

 

What's the clean bro look?

 

Yes Dana 44

 

Yeah thats what the manual says. I say once a week so if I forget, then at least I remember twice a month.

I went a few years not using the 4wd and think the actuator got stuck, but finally engaged after a few minutes. Never exercised it like the manual says.

The clean bro look is removing the badges. Looking at the trim removal, too. I like the wheel flares and will be keeping those.

If I do the trim removal, I start with the little pieces on the bed body for practice.

 

Man fuck white. I just spent.all my quarters plus a dollar bill at the self serve carwash and my truck is still not quite clean. I guess it's gunna need a hand wash and a detail/wax soon.

 

I debadged my 03 taco. It was clean

I wanted to remove my trim and fender flares, but ultimately decided against
it... For now.
keep us posted

 

You got a build thread? Why have I not seen your truck? Lol sounds sick

 

I'm considering de-badging the Tundra as well - or blacking them out...

 

Yes, its pointless but its just how the gearing works. You can't go from 4hi to 4lo directly anyway, neutral is where you stop on your way. Its the same basic reason you have to stop, go in neutral and then push the button on our push button tundras.

Now...with a manual transfer case on an automatic transmission it could be pretty useful...I THINK that it could allow you to tow the truck flat without damage which would be great as I view that as a huge limitation of automatic transmissions.

 

Thanks, Yeah there’s a build thread on here for it

 

It’ll be a while, there’s a new used transfer case under the truck already from The previous owner when his actuator failed