What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Def my pic, my hands have suffered years of abuse...Also I remember taking the pic.Also in NWPA that crud is about normal for anything 3 years and older.

 

It’s to help prevent the drums from seizing to the hub for easier removal. I replace mine all the time. They seem to work

 

Check it out here, https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...st-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-116#post-983161

 

And the badass husband comes through again! He lasered out the spot where the blank switch goes to fit on OTRATTW switch. Looks OEM! He also surprised me with the trucks name DRIFT lasered into it America style!

 

How did your truck come to be named Drift?

 

Looks good. My panel switches are different & I don't have any free space. I'm working on another plan. Hopefully it works out.

 

We have a transformers theme with truck names. Drift is the black and blue samurai. My 4runner is Iron Hide and I always wanted to wrap it matte black. My husband's silver taco was Silverbolt and his red taco was Sentinel Prime. We are kinda nerdy haha

 

Yeah eventually I'll have a switch pros in the sunglass holder up top. This works for now

 

If your husband is making the sp adaptor for the sunglass holder, could he possibly make another?

 

We actually talked about this. If it's something that he can make again, I'll let you know buddy!

 

Appreciate it! I have faith in him!

 

Hmm... I keep toying with the idea of making a switch panel for the roof with my 3D printer... just don’t know how Jonny level shit will hold up

 

Playing catch-up... Last Thur put a new clockspring in and Fri put tires on the front. Over the weekend, sanded the tailgate for repainting. The weekend was spent still fixing house from Hurricane Michael. Today got my led lights in the back of the cab.

 

We started working on something similar for my 4runner. He designed a bracket/switch panel that would mount to my rear view mirror. We just never finished it haha

 

the amount of unfinished projects of mine is immense..


my tacoma is the biggest one.. one day it'll run again! (should actually be a roller some time may...)

 

in other news, i parked it out front of the dealer today... looks tiny compared to the new chevy and the lifted expedition... lol

 

Re point #1: I thought I had read to put them in the rearward position? It also looks like that in the Wheeler's product listing, I think. I really hope that is also ok, since it's my rearward OEM stop that I have to replace due to bad threads...?

Re point #3: This may be a dumb question, too. I've heard a few people - including Wheeler's - say I could cut them to a more-correct angle, but I don't absolutely need to. If I do, though, it seems like it would have to be cut at the top in order to point straight down...which would interfere with the bolt angle. If I just trim off the bottom so it matches the plane of the LCA, then...when the LCA hits it pushes at an angle, rather than straight on, which seems not ideal from a physics perspective.

Can anyone enlighten me on that?

Edit: apologies to Wheeler's - I just re-read the message they sent me and that pretty much explains the latter question:

"So the shaving part is because the bump stops hit at an angle on those rigs. So the side load when being applied conflicts the longevity of the bump stops. Some people shave or contour them to hit a little straighter to keep them lasting a bit longer."

 

Nice tailgate. How's that compare to the new GMC multi-way tailgate?

 

I'll start this by thanking the quickie lube "technician" that failed to tighten the fill plug on my front differential as tight as he did the drain plug. I found the fill plug is 10mm hex key and the drain plug is 55 star key. So off to Harbor Freight for a set of 1/2" star key and hex key sockets. I got the fill plug loose, no problem, but the drain plug wouldn't budge even with my 30" breaker bar. It looked like the plug's star was deforming, so I decided to hold off trying my NitroCat air impact until I get a replacement drain plug. I used my vacuum brake bleeder to suck as much fluid as I could through the full plug. I got about 1.5 quarts out of 2.3 quarts. I topped off with Valvoline Synthetic gear oil. Fortunately the same gorilla apparently didn't tighten the plugs on the transfer case and rear differential so I was able to drain and fill those, no problem. I greased the driveshaft and topped off the radiator and windshield fluids. Tomorrow I just have to change the oil then I can wash and Zymol to get rid of the black streaks.

 

Its great, easy load without lowering the tailgate... don’t know what Toyota was thinking though, you can’t seem to open the thing

 

Isn't that Toyota's E-Z Load tailgate for dirt bikes?
Probably a 1-off from NY, LA or Chicago auto show. ;-)

 

Either side is fine. I looked at the lower control arms and wanted to put mine as close to the coilover lower mount as I could, so I went with the front hole.

I don't think shaving the contact point down will make a big difference. They will still get pushed a little sideways, but they're made to rebound. Maybe it would be more helpful for a vehicle at stock height. Mine is about 2" higher than stock and just clears at ride height.

 

Not sure about point #1, but what everyone says is the front is the spot to put them if you only install one set.

I wonder how 2 sets would work? No need for shocks anymore???

 

Makes you feel good about doing it yourself and getting it right. I’ve found lots of things like you found and once corrected will make maintenance easy. Looks like you have a long list of Toys on injured reserve or sold.

 

@Professional Hand Model For some reason I thought I remembered you doing diff fluid change and talking about that in this thread, however I went back to page 165 of this thread while scanning each page and couldn't find it. Could you help steer me in the right direction? I plan on doing both diffs and t-case by the weekend at the latest.
Thank you!!

 

How tall is that bump Darkness?

Looks like about 2 1/2”?

I fabbed up some the other day out of those rubber stoppers I was going to return. The originals are about an inch thick. I cut the ‘Clever Delights’ to about 1”.

Total of 2” in height with the OEM PLUS THE CLEVERDELIGHTS.

If I install them they will sit just above the top of the LCA as yours.

I don’t feel good about doing this for 2 reasons:

1) There is no evidence that my OEM bumps have come into play in at least 2 months of inspection.

2) Tweaking one side of the LCA instead of both sides of each arm simultaneously (as in with two new bumps per arm) when hitting a hard bottom out.

Anyways, I like this idea of the bump and may make two more for the rears.

The other issue that comes in play is installation is tight.

 

Sure bud. Here are the Key Takeaways. Confirm with your manual first.

1) Front and Transfer Case use 75w-90 Mobil1 for LS Synthetic.

2) Rear use Lucas 80w-90 for Limited Slip (its already inside the bottle). Its NOT synthetic. Clean the drain plug magnet.

Front diff takes a 10mm allen socket for the drain and fill plug. Use a 3/8” ratchet wrench. The 1/2” is too big to fit into the space. You’ll see.

Transfer and Rear both take a 24mm? socket for both drain and fill (double check these).

Put on a new rear breather at the least. Or, do an extension if you feel fancy.

MAKE SURE YOU CAN OPEN THE FILL PLUG BEFORE OPENING THE DRAIN PLUG!!!

 

I'll measure them when I get home from work. I also had concerns about putting leverage on one side of the arm and not the other, I might at some point swap the passenger side superbump to the driver side just to see if two is overkill.

 

TQM FTMFW!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W._Edwards_Deming

 

I looked up my VIN and it does not state I have a LSD. Can I still use that oil listed? I'm going to order a new breather and grab some hose for the local parts store. Any chance you remember the hose diameter I should get? I'm looking right now where to buy a replacement breather.

Thanks for the help!!