Everything You Need to Know About Ceramic Coatings

From the Engineering Explained channel:

 

This was pretty eye-opening TBH. I really want to put a protective film on my truck now and ceramic coat it to try and avoid having to buff out redneck pin-striping on narrow, heavily-wooded trails.

 

Finally watched the whole video. Very informative. I’ve looked at a few videos about PPF, and it does look like the bee’s knees. Really expensive though.

I hired a guy to do my paint correction and CQuartz application a few months ago. It was pretty overcast outside at the time, so I didn’t notice what a poor job he did. I noticed a couple of holograms here and there, but wasn’t too concerned.

Over the weekend, I was in the sun a lot, and the truck is covered in holograms. It took me this long to realize how bad it was. I’m pretty surprised it took so long, given as much time as I spend washing my truck. The sun just really hasn’t been out much so far this year, so they didn’t stand out.

The guy who did it said he would come fix it, but I really don’t want him touching the truck again. I’ve been relatively unimpressed with the ceramic so far. I suspect he didn’t do a great job with that either. I just haven’t seen the results others have.

I will try and fix it myself, or hire another detail shop if I’m not successful. I have plenty of equipment (Griots DA, several compounds and polishes), but not much experience with it. I imagine the CQuartz will make the job much harder also.

Anyone have suggestions for what to use? @driverdog @SouthBoundSteve @briarpatch @Pudge

 

The only way to 'fix it' is to remove and reapply the coating. Polishing is the most common way to remove ceramic coatings. They're tough, but not impervious to harm. If it were me, I'd start with a high Ph wash, like Purple Power vehicle and boat wash. Ignore the 'strip wash' offerings from Chemical Guys and Adams....they will not cut it. I'd then clay it, and polish.

It can be tough to tell when you've actually removed a ceramic coating, but in your case it will be easier. The holograms you see are likely under the coating and happened during the polishing stage. A proper polish will take care of them. It's also a sign that the installer did not use any type of panel prep (IPA wipe down) prior to putting the coating on...an important step so the coating can bond. On the up side, there are lots of consumer level coatings out there now at a very reasonable price.

 

That’s what I figured. I know he used a rotary instead of a DA, so that’s probably a lot of it. I’d originally intended to coat it myself anyway, but I let him do it when he offered it in exchange. I sent an email to Corey @ Carpro to see what advice they had. I figure he’ll know as well as anyone how to get it fixed.

I’m really surprised it took me this long to see how bad it was.

 

Sometimes it takes seeing it in just the right light. At least you know it's protected in the meantime.

 

Interesting. So how do you know if what you're using to strip it is basic enough? Add baking soda? What about this?

$29 Meguiar's D10801 Super Degreaser - 1 Gallon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SH4HS/

Man, that's a bummer. What did he charge you to do that?

 

Good video. Thanks

 

I’m not sure what the best thing to strip it is. I’ll likely try the Purple Power @briarpatch recommends.

I paid the guy around $400.00. It was about right for paint correction, but a smoking deal with ceramic added. He spent about eight hours on it.

 

I will be attempting to protect my paint with protection film in the next month or so. I am starting out slow. Maybe just the mirror caps. Then if all goes well. The front of the vehicle. A lot of good videos on youtube on installation of PPF.

 

That should work. I know Dawn dish soap is possibly another option. But like anything you will hear yes or no dont ever do that. I have read where only polishing or iron-x will remove the ceramic coating, but who really knows. Personally, I would start out with Super Degreaser or Dawn then re-evaluate.

 

Thanks for the advice. I intend to try 3M Finesse It first. As usual, I don’t know when I’ll get around to it.

 

Corey with Carpro sent me their full recommended process for applying CQuartz. Pretty good info for anyone considering trying it.

Cquartz Application Instructions

• Cquartz Tio2 was made for hot climates, has more UV protection than UK, provides a reflective gloss while UK adds more depth and Cquartz Tio2.

• Cquartz UK was made for colder climates, is stronger against salty conditions. UK is slightly thicker and repels water a little bit better than Tio2.


Paint Prep:

• Soap: CarPro Reset

• Chemical Decontamination: CarPro Iron x , CarPro Tar X (if needed),

• Mechanical Decontamination: Clay Bar (if needed for paint overspray contaminants or if still rough after Iron X)

• Compound if needed: Scholl Concepts S3 Gold XXL

• Finishing Polish: CarPro Reflect or Scholl Concepts S30 - (at a minimum a light polish should be performed to ensure proper bonding of coating)

• Polishing Oil Remover: CarPro Eraser

*If you do not have any of the following compounds or polishes, Do not use any that are really oily or has fillers as they will not allow the coating to bond to the paint correctly.*

Paint Coating:

• Cquartz Coating of choice: Cquartz Tio2 or CquartzUK (15ml +/- per coat for average sized vehicle. Ex: Honda Accord)

• Carpro 2 Face No Lint towels - Recommended towels for coating removal

• CarPro Suede Microfiber Applicators 4” x 4” 10 pack - Extra suede applicators if applying more than 1 coat.

Application Video: - CQuartz UK 2014 Application- Youtube

Regardless of if you choose CQuartz UK or CQuartz Tio2 that video is great! Just slight difference on the point you wipe off at depending on the version you apply.

CarPro 2Face No Lint Towels*)

1. Wrap Suede over the gray side of the foam applicator block.
2. Slightly shake the bottle of Cquartz.
3. Drag one or two lines of product down the applicator.
4. Wipe across surface in cross cross pattern. Add more product as needed.
a. Flip the suede applicator over after working on a panel or two, and switch to a new cloth when needed toavoid streaking.
b.
c.


5. Finding the right time to "level" (wipe off) excess coating after it flashes:
o Start with a single 2ft x 2ft test section to determine flash time before applying coating to entire vehicle. Flash time will vary depending on temperature, humidity, air movement, paint type, how thick it is applied, and more.
o If coating is applied thick then the coating will take longer to flash. If applied thin it will flash faster. Hot temps will cause it to flash faster, Cold Temps will cause it to flash slower. Air movement will cause it to flash faster.
o When it starts to flash you will see colors that will make the coating look like a rainbow or oil slick. You will see hints of blue, purple, red, and yellow.
o Remove too soon and it will be oily with no grab to it when wiping. If you wipe off too soon it will not give the coating a chance to bond.
o Remove too late and it becomes hard to remove.
o The time to remove is when you feel just a little push back or "grab" against your towel but it is not difficult to remove and it is no longer oily. It may leave some streaks at first but with the second wipe of a fresh clean side of the towel, the streaks should wipe off and the paint should be nice and clear.
o Lighting - Lighting is key to make sure you wipe off completely when you do wipe off. You don't want spot lighting like would use on paint correction but ambient lighting. Look at the paint from different angles to make sure none of the coating is missed. Spot lighting will "wash out" the high spots visually. Think of it like this: when you wipe off a sealant you have hours to go and check it again outside or in other lighting. In this case you need to pay attention as you go rather then wait an hour. Thorough removal of the coating is very necessary as any product left on the surface will harden and require polishing to remove soon after.
o Cquartz Tio2 - Wait between 1- 5 minutes and find the right window to wipe.

o Cquartz UK 3.0 – Depending on the environment you are working in, it may start to become somewhat difficult to remove within the first 2-4 mins. It may feel tacky and or super grippy and it will smear and leave streaking. If that happens you will want to wait an additional 1 min and do a small test wipe to check. Continue checking in 1 min increments until coating wipes off clean and easy.
o High spots - A high spot is excess coating that was not leveled (wiped off). Most of the time it will look like an application mark. If you discover to them within minutes then a bit more product will lift them. Otherwise you would use a dot of finishing polish such as CarPro Essence or Reflect and rub the high spot off, wipe it down with Eraser or your IPA of choice, and then re-coat that area and onto the area around it by about 6". Then start wiping off the perimeter immediately and slowly work inwards to feather it until you reach the area you are trying to re-coat at the appropriate time.

• If applying two coats of CQuartz, Apply second coat after 45-60 mins. If the 60 min point has passed and as long as the car is being garaged the second coat can be applied the next day or after a minimum of 12 hrs.

• Avoid any rain or water for a minimum of 1 hour. If the vehicle should get wet within the first 24 hours, it should be carefully dried as the coating will be more vulnerable to water spots within the first 24 hours.

• Topper:

• If using Reload: If you can garage the vehicle we would apply the Reload the next day but otherwise 45-60 min from when you started the CQ treatment. Reload can also be used as a stand alone sealant without using CQuartz.

1. Do not apply in direct sun
2. Apply in good ambient lighting
3. Shake well
4. Spray a few sprays across small section, spread and buff in evenly with quality microfiber towel
5. Work it into the paint evenly until almost flashed away
6. Flip Towel and buff off remaining residue
7. Be sure to work in great ambient lighting and check the panel closely before moving to the next panel.
• If using Gliss: (For use as top coat)

• May be applied 4 hours or longer after CQuartz.

• If Cquartz has been IR cured ,Gliss may be applied after 45 minutes from CQuartz application.

• Gliss Application:
1. Apply evenly across surface, approximately 2 ft x 2 ft section at a time. (Any overlap from one section to the next must be within a couple minutes for even application)
2. Add more product to applicator as needed to keep a wet, even application.
3. GLISS will flash fast and when a white haze forms, immediately wipe off all residues using a microfiber towel. If haze is left on too long then reapply and immediately wipe off.
4. If you choose to apply Reload on top of Gliss you may do so after a minimum of 12 hrs.

Coating Maintenance:

• For aftercare:**Washing regularly is the most important item.**

1. Do not wash with soap for 5-7 days after application.
2. The best thing to do is start using CarPro Reset to wash with regularly. Other soaps can leave residue that temporarily messes up the beading and allows dust and dirt to stick more readily.

3. Wash Mitt:
a. Microfiber Madness Incredimitt(Recommended for daily drivers and most cars - This mitt is easiest to maintain and is extremely durable as well as washing out most easily)
b. Merino Wool Wash Mitt (Recommended if car has extremely soft paint or car does not get extremely dirty)
4. Drying Towel: CarPro or Microfiber Madness
5. Quick Detailing: CarPro ECH2o Concentrate and Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile towels (need about 3-6 towels)
6. Occasionally (every 3 to 6 months) decontaminate surface with CarPro Iron X. Use during wash cycle (after Reset) and as directed
7. If using CarPro Reload as topper: use every 3-12 months, for special occasions or any time you like.

Precautions:

A.- Avoid sprinkler and hard tap water (If your vehicle is subjected to this and it is not removed in the regular wash cycle then use CarPro Spotless and MF towel.)

B.- Remove bird bombs from vehicle surfaces immediately (CarPro Ech2o + MF towel)


CarPro Iron X (use every 3-12 months)

CarPro Iron X advanced pH-balanced formula safely breaks down ferrous metallic contamination caused by automotive brakes, rail dust, and construction from delicate vehicle surfaces. It can be used on paint, plastic, chrome, glass, and alloy wheels. Iron-X works by forming a water-soluble complex with the iron particles lodged in the surface, allowing them to be rinsed free, and cleaning deeper and more safely than washing or claying.

1. Use outside with sufficient ventilation (Rinse driveway regularly during use)
2. Wash the vehicle in the shade with Reset and rinse well
3. Shake the bottle of Iron X, then across the surface
4. Allow the product to dwell for approximately 3-4 minutes in the shade Do not allow it to dry on the surface
5. Thoroughly rinse the surface and gently mitt with Reset once more
6. Rinse and dry surface gently and thoroughly

CarPro Spotless (If Needed)

CarPro Spotless chemically breaks down the mineral deposits left behind by water droplets (Otherwise known as ‘water spots’) before they can etch into the finish, thus negating the need for time consuming abrasive correction, and prolonging the life of the paint. If left unattended, water spotting can cause permanent damage to the most resilient of vehicle surfaces. Spotless’s proprietary blend of carefully balanced gentle acids safely removes heavy mineral deposits on most vehicle surfaces.

 

That CR Spotless is something else!