50k routine maintenance suggestions ? Towing included ?

At the 50k period (5 year mark) what fluids should be addressed? About half the miles are towing miles for my RV trailer. Taking it in this week for it's normal oil change. Should I even think about the rear diff, coolant, trans case?

I have asked before about trans fluid and was told by a service rep, being a sealed transmission, don't even think about it till 100k.

 

Manual says diffs every 30 so if you have not done than do them. Unless you spend a lot of time in 4x4 I would skip the transfer case unless you just have money burning a hole in your pocket. I did transfer case on Tacoma at 50 and fluid looked brand new.

 

I would at the minimum do a Trans drain and fill if your towing a lot, I'm at the same mileage and I'm going to change the trans fluid this month before towing season with the camping kicks up. As stated above do the diffs, if towing that's a 30k interval. I had done mine and I also skipped on the t-case because when I did my Tacoma's it looked really good at 60k.

 

I have 70k hard miles and I have been contemplating doing the transmission. I believe on my 2013 its supposed to be done every 60k, but for some reason dealers always recommend to not do it. I think they're scared to F it up haha

 

Not to sound naive, but you say "diffs" your also alluding to the front axle diff?

Just what needs to be re-torqued?

All the air and cabin filters I regularly change out. Kind of anal on this.

I do have the "super long life" coolant which does say 100k...

 

I have heard that before, and have seen it here on multiple Tundra websites...

I'm also going to ask that they do the multi-media update as I'm getting the intermittent or frozen screen on my radio / GPS unit...the last two years...Sometimes it once a month, other times it's 5 times in one day...

We are leaving in 2 months on a 4 month Alaska trip, so the last thing I want is to be on the side of the road (Alcan) with all the other Fords...ha ha...

 

Yeah front and rear differentials.

 

All fluids. Towing is considered ‘heavy service’. Change ALL fluids. Oils, coolant, transmission, steering, brakes, etc.

If its a fluid change it. Don’t let the stealership talk you out of it. If you are looking to save money, then DIY. Its all really easy to do.

 

Don't forget that if you are going to be checking the torque on bolts that they have to be cracked loose first, then re-torqued to the specified value.

Dan

 

Just what bolts need to be re-torqued? Stopped up there today to make my appointment for Friday. I asked a few questions, and she just shrugged her shoulders. I'll make sure when I drop it off, I get one of the other two service advisors who I have dealt with usually.

 

I'm at 100K miles of towing and 4-season offroad shenanigans, with 0 faults/breakdowns, with the following maintenance routine:

- RedLine 5w30 at 10K intervals (*much* higher HTHS than OEM 0w20), TRD oil filters
- Grease driveline zerks and yoke at 5K-10K
- Regular air filter changes, given the rural dust
- Diffs and Tcase at 25K intervals, again RedLine synthetic
- Starting at 50K, partial drain/fill of transmission every 10K oil change. OEM fluid initally, then once again RedLine
- Suck out power steering fluid from reservoir, refill with synthetic, once in a blue moon
- Brake fluid, etc at normal factory intervals. Plugs at 75K or so, improved idle smoothness

I serviced myself up to 50K, then my mechanic friend took over.

I started running 5w30 right after break-in, after the first early flush, and before my first tow. Tiny bump up in oil pressure. Mileage did not get any worse. Peace of mind pulling 8K up a grade in 110F and passing all kinds of traffic... I'll take it.

Other than a shell, it's unmodified. Came stock with "fake beadlock" forged 17" (if I'm not having a senior moment) TRD wheels and 33" BFGs, being the Rock Warrior trim. Great 4-season performing and long lasting tires.

The adventure continues...

 

I should also mention that I break in all vehicles aggressively, on empty roads without cops. Take a new vehicle, get it up to temp, and do quick pulls and long coasts in the meat of the powerband, increasing pull length and building up to full throttle. Do let's say 50 pulls or 100 pulls - however much time/patience is available - and you're done. Then change the oil and filter, and you're good to go.

Never had a vehicle burn oil between service intervals or have anything but superb longevity. Always did careful maintenance and used high-end lubricants, and broken in as per above. None of that granny throttle for 1K miles and glazed bores bullsh1t.

I will say that this break-in method gets exciting with 100+hp motorcycles, but is nevertheless doable away from people/traffic. Anyway, that's my semi-old man "tales of life experience for the youngins". Now where did my dentures go, dagnabbit... Get off my lawn!

 

What does this mean?

 

Thats what she said.

 

Hard acceleration for a few seconds at mid-RPM range to force rings against the cross-hatching, then trailing throttle to reverse combustion chamber pressure and encourage lubrication and cool things down, and repeat. Not bouncing off the limiter, just in 50-75% RPM range let's say. So you're not lugging, not taching out, but the rings are briefly forced hard against the cylinder walls, and then immediately cooled down on trailing throttle.

And while doing these pulls, gradually increase amount of throttle until you're up there at max, whatever tires/power/conditions/tranny shift logic allows. Of course it's most helpful to have a manual or sport paddle shift transmission that you can force to hold a given gear.

 

Or just drive it like you stole it because engine break in was something you did 25 years ago on older technology. Turbo engines still need break in, but thats for the turbo not the cylinders

 

OK, just dropped it off at my neighborhood Toyota dealer.

#1 complete brake service: pads all away around, rotors and calipers on the front. ($700 calipers covered under my extended warranty)

#2 Oil change filter

#3 complete drive line service as far a lub where needed, and re-torquing drive line components.

#4 change transfer, and diff's (2) oil.

#5 drain and fill brake fluid

#6 new battery

#7 radio / NAV software upgrade to fix the radio re-booting issue (covered under extended warranty)

#8 double check that I "don't" have the "Cam Shaft Tower seal leak". From what I can see it looks fine, just want to be sure.

#9 Front end alignment ( the front passenger wheel is out of spec.)

So now the $1000 question. What do you think this is going to cost? Whatever you think, add another grand. And that is with a battery, oil change and a $100 off service coupons.

 

What was wrong with the calipers that required replacement?

 

I

I didn't ask, because they were covered under my extended warranty. The pads are all being replaced because they were down to 2 mm. Bringing it in I asked for a "brake check" as the brakes were working fine, but I have started to notice more peddle travel when braking...So with a 4 month trip to Alaska coming up I'm glad to have them done. Pads all the way around, and rotors and calipers up front...I'll ask when I pick it up Monday.

Before my 100k / 8 year warranty runs out, I'll either have a new gen 4 Tundra or look to something else. F-250?... I got 3 years and 45k left on the warranty.