Is this my battery??? 5 month old Tundra

Loud clicking....headlights flickering, dash gauges turning on and off? Looks like I’m at 10.6Volts .

 

Well at the moment it is. Jump it and use a multimeter and see what it reads. Should go to 13.5-14.1 and then settle.

 

I have heard the batteries suck.

 

I just noticed one of the back doors wasn't closed all the way! So can I just jump it and drive it around for 15 minutes to recharge it or do I need a new battery?

 

Thanks for the replies. I gotta drive soon...so I guess I need to pick up a battery today. None of the stores locally seem to have 2018 Tundra 5.7 batteries in their battery selectors...I assume I can use one for another year since 2018 does not seem to exist. Lots of Optima battery choices available locally. Does anyone use an Optima 35? Looks small....but that's all Im finding.

 

You could also have Toyota test the battery. My local dealer just replaced the battery on my ‘16 under warranty because it was not holding a charge. (Not as good as other batteries but free).

 

I don't live anywhere near the dealer...and its a Saturday. So I need to find something local......just confused on the size since none of the battery selectors have the 2018 in their program or give too many results for other years. The optima looks so much smaller...but is taller I guess. The amps match the stock one.

 

What city are you in? It's possible a Tundra member here could assist you.
Good luck.

 

Top is my stock....bottom is the optima 35 that I can buy in town right now. Does anyone see any issues?

 

From what I’ve heard after starting your truck it typically takes the alternator 20 minutes to fully charge your battery back to full. So you have a dead battery. I would either use a trickle charger or jumpstart it and be on my way. But I wouldn’t turn it off until I know I can either jump start it again or get a new battery and have the alternator tested. If it restarts no problem you are probably fine, The fact that you left your door open could be why it died.

 

I don’t trust Optima anymore. They are not what they used to be in my experience. If I’m going to go with a typical battery it will probably be a interstate, diehard or something with a good warranty. Since your truck is so new you could even call Toyota Care and have them come fix you up for free.

 

The Optima is a good battery. If the listing doesn’t show an 18, then check 16 or 17, going to be the same. The more cold cranking amps the better. Optima batteries pack more power in a smaller size. Use stock dimensions for the battery box and hold down, and install the most powerful one (Optima) that you can. Buy a Battery Tender off Amazon and keep it handy for situations like this. Some battery tenders have the capability to jump start. Good luck.

 

If you gotta roll, then you gotta roll. But @15whtrd's "call Toyota Care" suggestion is a good one.

 

One of those cases where everyone’s experience will vary, 2014 here just rolled 68k miles on stock battery. I’m assuming as long as you replace it with a group 27F battery you’ll be fine, more than likely if my battery finally goes out I’ll stick with stock again.

 

Yup. My stock battery is still going strong. Knock on wood. I will probably get one from Costco when the time comes.

 

Northstar 27f

 

2017 battery is the same as the 18.

 

It would not take a jump. All town has was junk or optima 35. Now I can either take my core back or have Toyota warranty the old one as a spare.

 

Get a Northstar or Odyssey. Screw those Toyota batteries. Mine died at 37k only 2 years old.

 

OEM batteries are junk. Mine went out after 6 months... Toyota replaces with a true start this time.

 

I ran Optima for years in my jeep and had zero issues.

 

Alternators are not designed to recharge a low battery. Need to put a charger on it.

 

Optima D27F....

 

My Optima D27F is doing just fine. After Optima line relocated to Mexico there were QA issues at first. Not unreasonable considering the whole manufacturing line was moved. I know this because the Johnson Control Optima battery manufacturing line used to be right here in Aurora, CO up to the move down south and was one of our larger calibration clients. Lot's of disgruntled employees also posted a lot of crap about the move and after. Can't blame them but that was several years ago. lol. Does it suck being made south of the border?? Sure, just like it sucks with all the big 3 trucks being built down there. No doubt there were issues when that move was made. Lots of great AGM's out there....and I've heard right here on the forum how bad the new OEM batteries are.

 

I’m just glad I found a battery in town ......my truck was parked halfway in the garage while I was doing stuff and I really didn’t want to leave my garage open all night!

 

That’s good to know. Because quite a few years back (15 ish) they weren’t lasting me more than a couple of years. This was on a 95 turbo Eclipse. Some of that may have been due to some electrical issues with the car. The car sat a lot and the battery would be dead after a couple of weeks. It would not hold charge afterwards. I think I hated them more out of frustration LOL maybe I will try one again. I was thinking of north star from Cosco next time though.

 

Northstars are a win win battery...

 

Any suggestions on a bigger size battery for a 3rd gen? I was thinking of going Odyssey batteries.

 

I think Odyssey has a new larger group size out with super CA/CCAs. Heard about it here somewhere.