Oil/filter change 23K miles, one year......updated...year 4

I hope to do my oil change in a couple weeks using Amsoil for the first time. Using the Amsoil OE version. Already have the Blackstone sample container. Going to do 12 months and then get the lab test. Guesstimating somewhere around 9K miles. Just picked up a M-1 filter for just under $14.........

 

Obsolutely correct. My driving is usually different from city folk. I live out in the country, 20 miles from a small town. Every drive would be mostly highway, and the engine would be warmed to operating temperature and run at operating temp for at least 15-20 minutes. This past year was a bit of an exception in that 3½ months was spent in Houston, and did involve more stop and go traffic, and shorter trips. I also tow a 4500 boat to the gulf coast (500-600 miles round-trip) 6-8 times a year. But most of my use is admittedly more conducive to less wear and tear on the engine.

I would like to add that I've used Amsoil products since they first started marketing them in the mid 1970s. I drove a 1990 Jeep Comanche 4.0L straight 6 for over 20 years in urban traffic in Albuquerque and Seattle, changed the oil once yearly, and put 245K miles on that engine without a hitch, and with similar results as I posted here. I had the oil analyzed on occasion through dealers in Albuquerque and Auburn, WA with the Jeep. I don't know what labs they used. This was my first oil analysis on the Tundra and my first use of Blackstone Labs. I sent in a sample of the oil from my Suzuki outboard (Amsoil Marine oil, 10-W40) also and it came back the same. No indication of wear.

 

I still have my dad's old 1991 Chevrolet Silverado. It has had a steady diet of Mobil 1 since its first oil change every 10,000 miles. After he died, I took it over, and I change the oil every 10,000 as well with Mobil 1 EP. Truck has 422,000 miles on it. Never a single issue. That is why I was so disappointed in my 2015 Chevy. Love the Tundra. When my free oil changes run out, I will probably run either Mobil1 EP or Quaker State Ultimate Durability. I see only HWY miles, with very little city. Thanks for the information.

 

Here's an update on oil change interval on my '13. Miles on the oil this time, 24,070 in a period of little over 10 months, again with no added oil for the period. Under normal driving conditions, Amsoil specifies a change interval of one year or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first. The analysis results came out very similar to the first analysis done last year. The silicon readings remain high as Blackstone has pointed out, and they suggest I double check for any problems with air filtration. Their website also indicates that silicon is an additive in some oils, so I intend to call Amsoil and ask if they use any form of silicon additives in the synth that I use. Still very pleased with the results.

 

And everyone is so concerned with the 10k intervals. Im going to do the Blackstone test at my next oil change which will be a 12,000 mile one.

 

Those are some serious oil change intervals. Very impressive. I ran a series of Blackstone reports on various oils with my last vehicle. It was interesting to see how the different oils behaved (they were mostly the same).

 

Silicon is also added to aluminum to reduce casting viscosity (see link below). I draw your attention to the first sentence of the third paragraph in particular. That, plus higher than expected aluminum and several other mineral counts compared to the universal averages, I would probably would be worrying rather than celebrating, but that's just me.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silum... alloys typically contain,silicon, up to 50%.

 

Great! This is good to know. This will save me money and irritation on oil changes, as I will be able to comfortably put more miles on my own oil. Thanks for posting.

 

Interesting..... begs more research.

 

I can’t get the form to download....what are the universal averages for that oil? When I did my tests, Blackstone told me they were in the 5,500 mile range. So I always knew my numbers would be higher when I did a 7,000+ mile oil interval. I’ve spent a lot of time to on BITOG in the past and not a lot of people go 20K+ miles on their oil, so the universal averages might be a lot lower than what you run

 

Last time they said it was 6700 miles.

 

Been reading some, and still plan to speak with Amsoil and also Blackstone, but the percentage of silicon used is 15-19% maximum. Any higher percentage of silicon weakens the alloy, rather than strengthening it. So it seems to me if it were a case of excess wear of the cylinders or pistons, that I'd also have much higher than normal aluminum content in the sample. The sample shows much LOWER aluminum content than normal, not higher. 2ppm in 24K miles vs the 3 ppm in the usual 6.7K miles.

 

@Ericsopa Did you ever end up sending the oil from your Suzuki outboard? I have a DF250 on my boat.

Very impressive results from your 20k+ mile oil intervals. I am a stickler for 5k mile changes currently. . My dealer gave me a handful of oil changes and stuff when I bought my truck and I think I still have 1 or 2 more of those left. When I start changing my own I will be staying with Toyota OEM oil or switching to Amsoil.

 

Ericsopa -

Very interesting post, my compliments! Congrats on the great report on the extended oil run.

My experience with the Tundra 5.7 engines (I've had three) is they do use Silicone-based sealers. The sealers leach silicon into the oil. Usually, the first few UOAs, up to about 20-25K miles or so, show elevated silicon in the oil, even for normal change intervals.

But the silicon levels in the oil seem to be accumulative - in other words, the longer the oil is used in the engine without changing it, the higher the silicon level. I've seen elevated silicon levels in my Tundra engines at 10K change intervals. Given the amount of miles you've put on that oil, the silicon level is high, but still seems normal. If that silicon reading was due to dirt/sand in the oil, your wear metals would be A LOT higher than they are.

In my judgement, based on my experience (and having done hundreds of UOAs, mostly on Toyotas), I think your report is excellent, and the Silicon harmless.

Having said that, don't forget to change your air filter periodically!

 

Yes I did! Here it is.

 

Nice. Proper oil samples and stretching intervals is what we do at work for our multi million dollar engines. @Ericsopa nothing but smart here sir. Well done.

 

I don't have the documents at my fingertips (they are at home, I am at work) but the 5.7 V-8 has cast iron or steel cylinder walls, not aluminum.

Dan

 

Could be. I don't know, really. I would imagine that the pistons are aluminum, and this suggests that the block is all aluminum. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_UR_engine It doesn't indicate that the cylinders are steel sleeves.

I have written to both Blackstone and Amsoil now for any insight they might offer.

 

I have a full set of Toyota technical description documents at home on the 5.7 engine. They go into great detail on every aspect of the engine design (extremely impressive). They describe the technique they use to cast-in the steel (or iron, can't remember which) cylinder sleeves.

I won't get home until late tonight so I can post these tomorrow morning. They are great to have in any Tundra owner's library.

When I was first looking into the technical aspects of the Tundra V-8s I couldn't find reference to the cylinder material either. I was curious as to whether they used Nikasil plated aluminum cylinders like many modern motorcycle engines do (like my 2014 Yamaha FJR 1300 engine). Then I discovered the Toyota documents that go into detail on the cast-in liners.

Stay tuned until tomorrow morning and I will attach these documents to my post.

Dan

 

Nerd reading! I'm interested.

 

I found a post I made awhile ago that attached the docs:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-weight-oil.54299/page-3#post-1422596

Dan

 

In the attached documents in my post above, in 5.7L pt1.pdf, page EG-192 it has the description of the cast-in iron liners and the method used to secure them.

Dan

 

I've already encountered cool information. Like the oil filter cap (that many of us have changed to aluminum) is plastic to "save weight", which is funny.

 

Yes, @Bergmen, you are correct. I had forgotten that. UR engines have "spiny" liners, with an rough exterior texture to improve adhesion and heat transfer. The silicon is not coming from the cylinder walls. Probably from the sealant as theorized.

 

I do not know this for certain, but suspect the main engine bearings are aluminum, not copper and lead like they used to be years ago.

 

Thanks Dan. Great info. Much appreciated.

 

From the docs referenced above the rod and main bearings are indeed aluminum alloy (resin coated in the descriptions).

Dan

 

Thanks Mike! I was reading the comments and they mentioned the fuel due to the engine not running as hot as automotive engines. What temp does your DF150 run at? Is 184 the total hours on the engine or the interval when you changed? Did you use the marine 10w40 or regular automotive oil?

 

I use the Amsoil marine products for the outboard, due to the fact that the engines do run much cooler than automotive engines and the marine oil is formulated with this in mind. I use their marine gear oil in the lower unit, too. My DF150 usually runs around 140°. That's in the gulf waters, surface temps of 60s an the winter upper 70s, low 80s in the summer. the 184 hours was on that oil. The motor had a little over 300 hours on it at the time.

 

I'm only on page 9 of the PDFs (pt1) and on each one I find myself amazed at the engineering that has gone into the engine....