***UPDATE***Tech12volts door and/or dash speaker group buy.-valid through 2/28/19

I guess the speakers broke in or something, but the doors + sub combination sounds awesome! Really cleans everything up, and the doors don’t have that ugly rattle anymore.

I will install the dash speakers over the weekend, and post results.


Everything was very easy and smooth. Hardest part is putting the door panel back on and getting it to clip from the top.

 

Anyone know the positive and negative wire colors for the rear tweeters. They are not labeled. Thanks in advance.

 

Black with black, and red with white. There's a picture somewhere in this thread.

 

My left rear has blue and looks like light green. I’ll see if I can find any pics in the thread.

 

I busted off the back of the factory tweeter and left that part plugged into the factory harness (4 wire) like a previous poster did. Avoids having to go through any further splicing and worrying about +-. Taking the door panel off with he tweeter still stuck in place pretty much broke it off all by itself. I found that my bigger challenge was getting that stupid clip-on ring mounted to the new tweeter before placing the assembly into the door mounts.

 

My exact experience! The only way I could get the ring on was backwards, but I figured it wouldn't matter cause it's behind the panel anyways.

 

That's what I ended up doing after breaking one. Gorilla tape to the rescue. AMP and DSR1 tomorrow and life will be good. At least that's the plan. Never did get a clear picture of what James is talking about with the center dash tweeter wiring so I just wired them both together red to red, redblack to redblack and splceded them into the center factory harness. TJA1080 post 386. My door tweeters only produce audible beeps when scrolling thru the Entune equalizer, no real music. James told me that will be solved once the new amp and DSR1 are working but didn't say I did anything wrong. Still wondering if there is/was a better way.

 

Install underway

 

About time!

 

Pull those straggler white clips out! Seems like only yesterday.

 

I wonder if every Tundra owner has the Gadsden Flag hanging somewhere nearby.

 

First door done....

 

Just the tweeter!

 

Nope, that's the hertz speaker in the door...

 

Got the rear passenger door done before the rain started. I’ll finish this weekend.

On another note, look what showed up! Time to shop for a head unit.

 

Could I just install the front tweeters that come with the Hertz in the dash corners? I am non-JBL equipped and this would allow me to upgrade the dash corners as well as not having to mess with the sail panel.

 

I'm sure that would be fine to do. You'd need a bracket fro. James to mount the tweeter in that location. He custom makes them. Would you wire it via the door or just cut out your dash speaker and wire it there?

 

I now have my sub, all the dash speakers done. I started tonight wiring up my door speakers. I got both passenger side doors done. Not too bad at all.

For the front door...
1. The mid range mounts to the bracket very nicely and wires right in with the plug and play harness. I ran the harness wires behind the door skin and pulled the plug through a small factory hole in the door and plugged it in to the factory speaker plug.
2.For the tweeter, it mounts in the factory bracket in the sail panel pretty nicely once you get the hertz ring piece onto the tweeter. Snaps right in. To wire the front tweeter (if you have the OEM JBL system and are NOT adding an amp) you have to cut the factory tweeter harness right at theplug, strip back the wire sheath strip the wires, and wire the new tweeter wires to it with the supplied crimp connectors. On my truck white was + and blue - James says on toyotas the wire closest to the release pin is always +

My doors are sound deadened with multiple layers of different materials. I decided to add noico mat to the back side plastic door panel itself. There are a ton of plastic parts on it that rattle and make noise so I wanted to address that while I had the panel off. I spent about $20 on Amazon on 10sq ft of noico 80mil and its well worth it while you have the door apart. I probably won't even use it all on all 4 doors. I mostly addressed the door handle /arm rest area, cup holder area, window switches and where plastic part came together, as well as some larger pieces on large spans of thin plastic. Just tap your fingers around to locate rattles and bad joints and long spans of thin plastic. Definitely kills any remaining rattles which we all know are so annoying.

For the back door I did the same with the found deadening mat on the backside of the door panel in problem areas.
1. to mount the mid range you again use the wooden bracket from James and attach the speaker to it. Again I ran the wires behind the door skin and through a hole/grommet that's already in the door. This is where the back door differs. Once you plug in the mid range using the supplied plug and play harness you need to cut the harness! Yes cut your brand new harness. You have to run the wires from the tweeter down to the harness and tap in there, I used crimp connectors but you could solder.
2. To install the tweeter you need to remove your old tweeter and also pull the little black box/plug off the back of the tweeter (this is actually the part that the OEM wires plug into the OEM tweeters) SAVE that little black box/plug, you will need to plug the OEM tweeter wires back into it in order to complete the circuit and have everything work. This eliminates having to bridge some wires together. I actually found that you can trim that OEM black box/plug a little bit with wire cutters and stick it right back on the backside of the new hertz tweeter using the supplied foam double sided tape, that way its not just dangling there and is actually back in the factory location. Next place the ring that comes with the hertz speakers onto the tweeter (it installs from the back of the speaker) it's a pain to snap on but itll go. Once the ring is on, the new tweeter will snap right into the factory location. Run the wires down the door to the new harness you cut earlier and connect the tweeter wires with a crimp connector or solder. Then as you're reconnecting all the window and lock harnesses / plugs, also plug the factory tweeter wires back into that little black plug/box you taped to the back of the new tweeter, and the speakers will come on.

Each door took me about an hour. Mostly due to adding sound matting, it could go much faster.

The sound is much better. The highs are so much clearer and to my ear reaching higher frequencies. The mids sound great and actually put out less bass now, which is nice. They do sound a bit quieter than the stock speakers but not as noticeable as the dash speaker change over was. Its just a much better sound. I am very happy with everything so far. An amp would be amazing on these speakers. Maybe someday I can afford that too but for now these simple upgraded have mad a world of difference. Even fading from front to rear you can actually hear the rears now, and you can up the bass now and not get overwhelmed with distortion from the front doors. The sub stands out even more now that the other speakers are better balanced.

 

Does anyone have pictures of how you are connecting the rear door tweeter to the speaker? I’m having trouble understanding it.

 

Thanks for the info and detailed write up.
Do you have a pic of the Hertz ring piece installed on the tweeters. When I installed mine I couldn’t figure out how it was supposed to work and just winged it.

 

Hey @Pudge whats the deal with the factory sub? I didn't see anything on the site.

 

There is a video I did that foghorn posted on page 11 of this thread to explain the third picture

 

I did not take any pics. I can do that when I do the drivers doors. Sorry guys. It was late and I was rushing

 

Thanks, it makes sense now.

 

I cut all 4 of those and paired together like the instructions said. Used the included butt connectors to splice to tweeters. I think the beige/white pair went to the + of the tweeter.
It did take me a few minutes to figure out how the hell to get the old tweeter out of the rear door. Couldn't see the 3 retainers that need to be moved in the low light of the garage.

 

I’m not sure as I never have installed audio equipment in any of my vehicles over the years. Is one way better than the other? I would assume cutting the dash speaker would be easier than wiring through the door. That being said, if it sounds better wiring through the door I would go that route.

 

I’ve finished upgrading and switching out all of my speakers, and am very satisfied with how everything turned out. Like someone said before, it’s not louder, but it is definitely clearer. It still does not pick up subtle bass and a lot of the mids, but I will be ordering the amp pretty soon so that is no problem for me.

 

FINISHED AMP AND DSR1 INSTALL TODAY.

Pulled power thru passenger side grommet. Probably the most challenging part but eventually sized the hole in the grommet large enough for the wire to slip thru easily. I brought it thru from the engine compartment into the interior cab. After trying to pull it thru with taped wire, coat hanger, WD40 I just went back and shoved my largest Phillips head screwdriver into the hole to enlarge the opening. After that the power wire just pushed thru easily. I guess I was trying too hard to maintain some kind of seal but in the end it's just fine as is. You can always add silicone around the wire if OCD takes over.



Ran power wire along passenger side raceway and under carpet across to the center console side and underneath the heater vent in the floor.


Sanded the paint for bare metal connection for ground.


Grounded to frame. I used the three self tapping screws that came with the wiring kit. Ran the ground wire under the same heater vent toward the rear.



The DSR1 is sitting loose on top of the amp. I may go back and affix with velcro. Once the seat is in place, it's pretty snug as is.Had to keep in mind not to cross RCAs with or near the power cable.I stuffed the slack on the RCAs under James' mounting plate. Plenty of room with the rear "feet" adding height. I pre-wired everything on a work bench inside the house... the power, ground and final factory harness connections were done in the truck of course.






Velcro attach for the 100amp fuse on top of the large fuse box. No better option that I could figure out given the length of the pigtail to positive on battery. I zip tied the power wire where I could in a few places along the upper firewall. Left about 18" coiled up over by the passenger side grommet in case of what, I don't know but somebody somewhere said it was a good idea to leave some slack in case you ever decide to reposition the amp.




Results: Unbelievable improvement. The whole interior cab is filled with sound coming from every corner, dash and the subwoofer just rocks it.
The DSR1 would not allow an initial basic tune. I read somewhere that is the case and you just go to advanced tune. I'm using my iPhone. Almost went out and purchased an iPad....glad I saved $350 cuz the phone does just fine. This is the part I had most doubt about but lo and behold, the DSR1 and my phone linked right up immediately thru the Perfect Tune app after everything was powered up. Am I happy with the system? Beyond my wildest expectations. Man am I glad I did this myself, kind of a pita but the satisfaction of DIY and saving some serious coin makes it worth all worth while. And when my wife finds out that I'll be ordering Bilstein 6112/5160s and CB Shackles with the "perceived" savings, I'll be able to sleep in the truck with high quality lullaby music for better nights rest.