Timing belt replacement mistake Please help

That is what I just done everything is timed perfect belt wise but now I can not get the truck to start I'm hoping maybe I just messed a wire up on the cam sensor its a great truck with 328k on it running fine till now dnt know where I messed up I have spark and fuel so now I'm really lost

 

That's bad news Smokeygoat, hopefully someone will be along to help out as I'm new to the 4.7. Is this is the 2002 in your signature? Did you rotate the engine by hand and confirm the cam marks align at the "I" hash mark when crank was at top dead center? If you have any pics post them as I'm sure they will help with the diagnosis. How do you know you have fuel and spark?

 

Took coils out one by one grounded to manifold with spare plug in them all spark cracked main fuel supply line to fuel rail and covered the engine (lol I got plenty of pressure) ohmed crank sensor and cam sensor only codes I had was misfire on 2,4,6,8 and I believe bank 2 lean and bank 1 rich I may have those backwards but someone said disconnect battery to clear codes to see if it'll clear and crank so now when I plug scanner to it is just shows no codes stored this is the 3rd set of plugs I've bought gaped and installed I'm just gassing them out.. I was told these 02 tundras have a ingnitor somewhere on drivers side firewall I havemt seen it unless its the bracket beside the battery mounted inside the fenderwell.

 

Until someone smarter chimes in, do a compression test on #1 cylinder at tdc. I'm thinking if compression is low or none at tdc, then you have a timing problem due to a valve open or partially open at tdc. If compression is good, then we've eliminated the timing belt install and your problem is elsewhere.

 

Thats on my to do list tomorrow should have done did it but with it running before timing belt install didn't really figure compression was bad ran like a top before it started missing

 

Ok update on tundra havent got to do compression test yet my has went mia but have pulled valve covers to check cam gear timing and both gears on both side cam are aligned so that rules out sheared cam gear pins now another question with motor at TDC AND CAM GEAR PULLEYS AT THE TIMIMG LINE where should the internal cam gears align or do they do their own thing after the are timed together

 

umm, so what happens if you try to start the motor? i think i broke mine.

 

I changed my timing belt and when I aligned the marks on the belt, I had the left side cam mark off . I went by the wrong mark. I would crank the engine but had fuel on the left side but dry on the right.re check your cam marks.That could be the problem.

 

Flooding both sides and marks where dead on

 

So we know the following. It was running b4 the timing belt was replaced. It's now not running. Cylinders are getting fuel and spark. I seem to think the odds are remote that something like a ECM failure or igniter failure happened at the exact moment in time you choose to change your belt. Maybe another component did fail, it just seems more likely there was a mistake during the reassembly. That's been my experience anyway.

We know you have spark, but can you verity you have spark at the exact right moment in time? You seem confident the belt is correct meaning the valves are closed at tdc, compression test to verify, so could the spark timing be off due to crank sensor position or cam sensor positions feeding bad info to the ECM? How about the crank position gear? Snapshot from Otramm on youtube.

 

Any updates? Did you get it running again?

 

glad someone mentioned this, i suspected the gear did not get put back on..... good luck OP, hope you get it sorted out.

 

Still not running gear is on correct cam and crank sensors are good had em both checked out plus reading rpms on scanner I have pulled valve covers to check cam positions but cant find any info on how they should be regarding TDC as in do the inside cam gears align (2 dots on each gear) to the cam pulley at TDC

 

You need to get a shop manual. Chilton (or Haynes, can't remember) has one that is not too expensive, goes through the procedure step-by-step.

Dan

 

check every fuse

 

Smokeygoat,
Sorry to hear you're not up and running. Nothing in your first post indicates a need to remove the valve cover to investigate the cam and valve position relative to the crank. The belt was off, the cam moved, you manually rotated the cam to position, installed belt, and so on. The cams are geared together, so when they rotated, they rotated in time with one another.

Confirm tensioner was installed and the pin was pulled. If not, the belt would certainly be too lose and have jumped several teeth. Were you able to confirm compression at cylinder 1 TDC?

Good luck
.

 

Any updates Smokey?