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CRC 3084 Dry Moly Lube, (Net Weight: 11 oz.) Dark Gray, Original Version
Purchase options and add-ons
Material | Metal,Rubber |
Brand | CRC |
Package Information | Can |
Liquid Volume | 11 Fluid Ounces |
Item Weight | 14.56 ounces |
About this item
- High anti-friction and anti-seizure properties
- Lubricant resists high temperatures up to 650 degrees F, high pressure, water and chemical attack
- Fast drying film resists dirt and dust build-up
- Non-Conductive
- Harmless to most plastics, rubbers and metals
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Product details
- Is Discontinued By Manufacturer : No
- Product Dimensions : 3 x 8 x 3 inches; 14.56 ounces
- Item model number : 3084
- Date First Available : April 1, 2006
- Manufacturer : CRC Industries
- ASIN : B0013J62P4
- Country of Origin : USA
- Best Sellers Rank: #15,671 in Industrial & Scientific (See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific)
- #69 in Industrial Lubricants
- Customer Reviews:
Product Description
CRC dry moly lube is a dry film lubricant fortified with molybdenum disulfide that reduces friction and improves overall operating performance. Dry moly lube bonds instantly to metal surfaces to form a dirt repelling barrier that lubricates and protects the surface from pressure and friction. Withstands temperatures up to 650 degrees F and extreme pressures, as well as water and chemical attack. II. Applications Recommended as a general maintenance lubricant on gaskets, transfer belts and conveyor belts; as an assembly lube on motors, plant machinery and handling equipment; as a release agent for rubber moldings; and as a general lubricant for high temperature, low load, or high rpm slides, rollers, wheels, gears, chains and hoists.
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Customer reviews
Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.
To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.
Learn more how customers reviews work on AmazonCustomers say
Customers like the nozzle, slippage, quality and ease of application of the machine lubricant. They mention that it dries quickly, keeps your hopper slippery and that it works well as a lube. Some praise it for being the best dry luber on the planet. Opinions are mixed on ease of removal, color and messiness.
AI-generated from the text of customer reviews
Customers are satisfied with the quality of the machine lubricant. They say it works well as a lube, and is an excellent high-pressure lubrant. Some customers also mention that the etchings came out great.
"...Only time will tell how long it will stay in place. Does lubricate well." Read more
"...So use it with care. But it works, it lasts and it is a darn good product." Read more
"...I was only doing text (no grayscale rasterings) but the etchings came out great...." Read more
"Works good as a lube like it is advertised. However everyone online says that you can spray it on steel, laser it, and it will mark...." Read more
Customers like the performance of the machine lubricant. They mention that it works extremely well, is better than graphite, and is functional. Some customers also mention that the product works well at 50 watts and 10 mm/sec, and that it is great for laser engraving on copper.
"Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with...." Read more
"Works great for laser engraving on copper" Read more
"Purchased this so I could “etch metal with my 10w diode laser. It works very well so far on the few knives I’ve done...." Read more
"...It has worked extremely well; better than graphite or any other product that you can get at the local NAPA/hardware store/ O'Reilly, etc...." Read more
Customers like the nozzle, saying it goes on well, dries quickly, and makes gears much quieter.
"...1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them..." Read more
"...3 light coats and dry time was within 1 hour." Read more
"definitely a "dry" lubricant - dries almost immediately - I intended to use this for some bushings containing rubber, but you don't get time..." Read more
"...very brief spurt of product, can pressure seemed to fail and product would not spray. Therefore, useless." Read more
Customers find the application of the machine lubricant to be easy. They mention that it goes on like spray paint and dries in under 10 seconds.
"...The CRC dry moly was easy to apply...." Read more
"I use this in all my tumbler and flask laser work. Easy to apply and take off.Highly recommended!" Read more
"Goes on like spray paint and dries in under 10 seconds. Give it 10 minutes to cure (15 in the cold). It's perfect!..." Read more
"...I wanted this to revive some old USGI mags & it did the trick.Easy to apply,quick to dry & so far durable...." Read more
Customers like the slippage of the machine lubricant. They say it keeps their hopper slippery, so pellets slide and feed easily. It wears well, slips under high pressure, and allows for greater accuracy. It reduces friction and wear, and smooths operation moving parts. Some customers also mention that it makes sliding glass door slide easier.
"...It does the job very well though. It wears well, slips under high pressure and allows for greater accuracy and control when using the machine...." Read more
"Pretty slippery stuff. I usually use graphite bit decided to try moly. Made sliding glass door slide easier...." Read more
"...Works as advertised, reduces friction and wear, smoother operation moving parts." Read more
"...Prevents ash buildup on exhaust fan blades and keeps your hopper slippery so pellets slide & feed easily...." Read more
Customers are mixed about the messiness of the machine lubricant. Some mention it works great and doesn't attract dirt, it works well to coat stainless steel prior to laser engraving, and dust doesn' t stick to it. However, others say it can be very messy, not easily cleaned up, and it seriously stains the metal.
"...Does not attract dust. Basically it consists of a dry lubricant, Molybdenum diSulfide in an acetone or other volatile matrix...." Read more
"...It does as advertised - but it can be messy." Read more
"...Came out great on stainless steel using my 5W diode laser" Read more
"...It’s just unexpected and unnecessary, that’s all. It’s hard to dust on lightly too. Comes out of the can like a fire extinguisher!..." Read more
Customers are mixed about the color of the machine lubricant. Some mention that it gives a nice dark gray finish to the mags, and is a great match to the original finish. However, others say that the spray is black and will make a mess if not careful.
"Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with...." Read more
"...I read the actual instructions on the can that I noticed that the spray is black, so whatever you spray it on will be black...." Read more
"...to be super smooth and flat. They have a lovely grey sheen. This spray is different from all others I’ve used!..." Read more
"...Please be advised the lube sprays on black/gray and will make a mess if not careful." Read more
Customers are mixed about the ease of removal of the machine lubricant. Some mention that it comes off quickly and easily after etching, while others say that it's difficult to remove and can be messy. Some customers also mention that the non-engraved portion is impossible to remove.
"...it dries leaving behind a film of moly that is actually kind of hard to remove. Can be very messy" Read more
"...This spray drys to the touch and it comes off quickly with alcohol, such as isopropanol. You can inscribe ceramic tiles too with this spray...." Read more
"...Don't let any get on any other part of the bike. It doesn't come off." Read more
"...It puts a beautiful black finish on the item and comes off quickly and easily after etching." Read more
Reviews with images
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Top reviews
Top reviews from the United States
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Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show.
Things we learned:
1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.
2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).
3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.
4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.
Other tips.
Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.
Picture notes:
Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup").
Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.
Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2022
Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show.
Things we learned:
1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.
2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).
3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.
4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.
Other tips.
Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.
Picture notes:
Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup").
Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.
Second, my use is a little 'off label' for their typical applications.
I have a blue-diode laser that doesn't do metals very well. There were some discussions on the forum I follow about using CerMark to improve metal engraving and some about using CRC dry moly. I chose to try the CRC dry moly since I don't plan on doing a lot of metal engraving and the CerMark is pretty expensive for 'testing.'
The CRC dry moly was easy to apply. I did make sure I cleaned the metal before coating (alcohol and acetone) to get rid of anything that would mess up the coating. I did a couple thin coats. There were still some 'bubble' areas that weren't as smooth as I would have liked. For my test, it did seem to help a lot more than a marking pen or some other things I tried. I probably will need to dial my settings in a little more to get a better job.
I did subsequently come across a discussion of molybdenum disulfide verses molybdenum oxide and problems with the disulfide version. You may want to review that before diving into the dry moly use. It doesn't suggest CRC dry moly is a bad product, just a forewarning in general
Overall, I would say the CDC dry moly is a GOOD product.
It can be messy. It sticks sort of like paint film to every surface that it comes in contact with like your hands or adjacent painted surfaces. So use it with care. But it works, it lasts and it is a darn good product.
I would buy it again!