General Supercharger Thread

Maybe I should design my own gauge that looks good and doesn't suck and has like a 5 year warranty.

 

If memory serves, it's to be removed from the exhaust pipe, then with it powered on, wave it in the wind; and apparently say a little prayer.

 

If you don't mind the Radio shack form factor, this has been flawless. A buddy who does lots of Mega squirt race car shit loves it.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/p...kyjVzx6sDHsIOr9ImtSwUCdxSW2I00cxoCFqkQAvD_BwE

 

I recall you mentioning that one some time ago. It's just mostly that I have this one, I like it, and it's set up to log in HPT. We'll see if I can accidentally make it better tomorrow.

 

Best of luck. The ballanger can connect via OBD2 and canbus and be logged with HPT super easy too.

 

I use the innovative scg-1 and occasionally the AFR won’t kick on. Usually a reboot or two gets it going. I haven’t tried recalibrating the sensor yet.

 

Surprisingly my PSB-1 has always turned on and worked, only 1.25 years of use though. The sensors may get fouled/destroyed more often depending on placement distance and angle. Mine is in a single tube, drivers side, about 10” away 90 degrees in ARH headers.

 

This. There's maintenance that needs to be done and it is surprisingly frequent. Recalibration timelines and procedures are in the manual. We see it occasionally with the SCG-1 as well.

It's not hard or terribly time consuming. Easy enough to just add it to the oil change routine.

 

Both AEM gauges have been flawless.

well, since I replace the harness on the boost gauge....installer ganked up the molex connector.


however, I'm probably not the use case that is applicable here.



however...I have been resetting the max setting on the boost gauge at every fill up.
get this...I have been maxing at ~8.3psi for the last 5 tanks. short on-ramp hops, etc.


the only time I exceeded 11psi was when I stayed in it.
which is probably indicative of my restrictive "stock" setup.
I'm guessing boost builds because it can't get in fast enough (stock inlet) & get out fast enough (stock TRD exhaust).


yes, I am a prime candidate to break shit.





I see all this talk about built blocks.

I have a question for those that have taken this course of action.

how much (ballpark) would it cost me to put in a "built" block?
with the sole intention of ring gap.
keeping all the shit I have.
shooting for a "safe" 650-700whp

$20k?

 

Yup

 

that's not terrible.

 

Today's pricing, engine alone is about 20k for best of breed parts. I think @e30cabrio did a light build for a heck of a lot less. Add in labor and other goodies and you're into it for 15-30k (e30 vs "built" built) in today's pricing. My built block, core and rails ordered 6 months ago, installed, is closer to the number you suggested.

It's a tough time to want to play.

 

Hobbies are expensive!

 

What’s an LS swap cost? $20k is insane to me for a built engine but I don’t play much in Toyota land.

 

good info.



as much as I would want to go "balls out", if I was going to make a move, it would be to build the block to last another 150k "safely".

at ~700hp of course.

 

This.

I'm looking to put a new motor in the '34 Ford.

nowhere near $20k


it ain't broke...435hp ain't enuff.

 

You can get way more out of that, and safely. Spend the $100 on a pulley and let her eat.

Seriously, though, fully built us ridiculously expensive now. I'm not sure I would have gone that route today, especially when you see the modest "build" @e30cabrio did with his latest motor.

Talk to @snivilous and see what he thinks about a lightly refreshed build. Then you'd have the Phoenix shop and his numbers to compare to see what's real. Once you have that plan, I'd spend the few bucks and run what you got until it doesn't run anymore, then execute the plan. That's just an unsolicited opinion, of course.

@snivilous is building a database of built motors and specs, so be sure to add your details.

 

My motor was 4800 install was 5k.

Seems my issue is at the connector in the box between the firewall and airbox.

How do I get them out of the box to get to the underside?

 

If I remember correctly, there's a TAB in this little opening, you move the tab and the whole connector should slide up. If it goes down, then you'll have to take that box apart to access it from the bottom. Check for corrosion or contamination in the connector itself. I have a tool to check pin fit, not sure how to do that without it, unless you have some extra wiring pins laying around.

 

I have had the PSB-1 for 3 years now and have had that issue for about a year now. If it freezes up I just enter the menu by holding the left button for a few seconds. After the menu times out it restarts the heater on the sensor and usually will start reading. This is easier than restarting the truck if you are already driving. Other than that though my gauge has performed great and I just preferred the look of it over my AEM in my Camaro. I also liked that you can see boost and afr on a single gauge.

 

And not that it is entirely necessary in an automatic truck, but I think the shift light is a cool and fun feature. It's just bright enough that you see it if you're looking for it but not blinding or annoying.

 

I have the box detached (the 2 bolts out). I figured the way to go was to get all the connectors out & see what is going on underneath.

Best I can tell, all the pins are fully there/extended in their connectors. The harness side, all pins are in as far as they go. I am now getting a succession of transmission codes, the latest P2716.

Thanks

 

If you can do it yourself and exclude labor then it's a LOT cheaper, like $10k or less. If I wanted to do a "budget" engine build I would do pistons and rods and balance it, and that would probably cost like $6-8k. My 2JZ just the engine I want to say was in the $6k range and was nothing fancy (no cams or head work, stock crank, etc.). My LS on the other hand was knocking on $20k without labor but that was replacing every single component, some not even being fancy parts.

Point being, obviously mild or wild changes it drastically. I'd still like to push a totally stock engine as far as possible (and I'm assuming that hasn't truly been done yet, at least on this forum). But if I was putting an engine together, I would really just do pistons and rods since those are known failure points then just send it, I think that is the best bang for your buck. $1000 pistons, $1000 rods, $2000 machining, $2000 gaskets and random parts.

 

The builder said the rods were fine, & used what he called upgraded pistons, I paid extra for ARP head studs.

This wiring deal is kicking my ass & the new transmission codes are really pissing me off.

 

Send it to sniv!

Or find a local wiring guru. Electrical gremlins suck and you don't want to keep chasing your tail. Just fix it right once and for all.

 

If this build continues to snowball later in its life. This thing will get a Nelson trophy Truck motor lol

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DM1Nbotyj6c/?igsh=YWtrbzZpb2xmcmls

 

$6-7k is more inline with what I would expect. $20k is more max effort in my mind. Not just built to sustain. My 383 was around the $7k all said and done with the builder assembling it.

 

Could not get it to release but did get rid of all but the MAF mess..

The fuel pump and evap have been there for years. Pump is from bypassing the flex deal.

oops, I didn't notice the fuel pump crap was gone lol

Secondary air is since the last motor blew, was initially both banks, I codded them out.

 

Update -- good news, bad news, news is news

Supposed to be on my way back to NJ today but looks like we are going to be hung up an extra day and I won't be home until Friday night or super early Saturday morning (I'm sure I'll hit all the shore and rush hour traffic as well.)

Few things caused the delay with a seized bolt snapping while removing the old trans pan being one of the more time consuming things among a bunch of other little things (i.e. pro speeds exchange tank comes with windshield wiper reservoir that mounts where my catch can is, so need to be re-routed which adds extra time).

Only things left today to be installed were engine mounts and headers before getting on the dyno; eta on completed install is 2-3 pm today roughly. Takes 3 hours with dyno and road test and other quality assurance before being released to me which puts us too late into the night to be safe and sure I'm good to go.

Bummer for sure but I understand -- originally wanted to drive down Sunday night/early Monday morning, fly home for the week instead of sitting in a hotel room for now an extra day as cost would've been the same but would be sleeping in my own bed at night. Was advised it was better to stay local. Wilmington is nice but after a few days I'm itching to get out of here -- as I am with anywhere I travel after 3 days I want to move/go back home.

SMALL chance that I get out of here tonight but wouldn't put any money on it lol (edit: 12:48 pm was just told no chance of leaving today as need road test to make sure valve body and tune area working together well.)

 

The delay sucks, but it does sound like they have your best interest at heart and are trying to ensure quality work; that's hard to find these days.