New member, Retired Toyota Paint Shop Engineer

I would.
Topcoat paint is designed to go over primer.
Primer is designed to go over e-coat, which goes over zinc phosphate.

Using a rust converter that leaves a phosphate coating, followed by a good primer, then a topcoat, will give you best results.

 

Cool! You still playing with paint fixes in your retirement? I might drive over one day for some help!

 

Welcome Robert! It sounds like you’ll be quite an asset to this community.

 

Welcome ! Always good to have an expert on board.

 

Welcome to the Forum.
Any reason why Toyota uses such a thin clear coat? The clear coat on the hood of my 2008 is nearly gone.

 

It’s the t spoon of Super White that does this…

 

Can you vouch for or recommend a specific brand/formula of rust converter that achieves the above goals?

 

Welcome from PA.

I think we will appreciate your knowledge!

Very nice of you to fix up your neighbors 06’ Tundra, do you also drive a Tundra?

 

Oooh, I got another one! What's your favorite tundra color?

 

Right now I am finishing up a 40x70 Quonset hut shop to house the vehicle collection. Then I will be remodeling a 150 year old house.
When this is done, I will be able to play mechanic again.

 

Would you be able to grace us with the photo of the 150 year old house? In the south anything more than 30 years is considered "old" if not taken out by mother nature already....

 

Get thee to the Old Dominion good sir. Post haste!

 

Forsooth AND forthwith!!

 

Welcome from Pennsylvania

 

I think it's odd you're the first person I've seen who was a Toyota engineer on a forum. Maybe it's just NDAs or that others don't have interest in forums or don't even particularly care about Toyotas that filters them out. Very cool to get a bit of insight into the engineering world of Toyota and decision making from your posts.

 

Welcome from Idaho.

 

I would omit the paint engineer title given the horrendous peeling issues with super white and blizzard pearl.

 

There have been a couple of others over the past few years, but I forgot their screen names.

 

Welcome from Central Texas.

 

Well…..that’s not very appealing

 

Welcome from Sun Lakes, Arizona!

Any easy way to remove Gorilla glue (drops) from the from bulge paint on a Tundra? Never asked before and it bugs me LOL

 

I was a paint shop person from the 80's til I retired. Several different companies, last 10 years at Toyota. I'm a paint process guy, I know what it takes to get a good, durable, paint job on anything made of steel, and some plastics. I also am an old car/truck enthusiast, Currently have 5 Fords and Mercurys from 1968 back through 1951. I do all my own work on them, including paint and body.

While I am most familiar with paint shops, since I had to deal with raw bodies coming in, I learned a lot about stamping and bodyweld issues. I also learned a lot about paint defect repairs, as well as assembly chips and dings that needed to be fixed.

As for why there are not more Toyota engineers on the forums? I am guessing that most of them have spent enough of their lives doing Toyota stuff that they are ready to get away from it all.

 

Try "Goof Off". Test it on an inconspicuous place first, like under the carpet at the door sill. Some adhesives have a stronger bond to paint than the paint has to the substrate, so you have to be careful removing the glue, or something that is glued to the paint.

 

Ah yes, 040 and 070 color issues.

Actually, paint delamination from e-coat was one of the issues I was dealing with throughout my career.

In general, these issues occur when the primer and base coat do not have enough sunlight resistance to prevent penetration to the e-coat layer. This causes the e-coat (cathodic epoxy usually) to degrade, then the paint will peel off. This can be a result of a material issue, or an application issue.
Material issues are usually from the primer or base not being opaque enough to keep sunlight away from the e-coat. Think of the pigment acting as a sunscreen.
Application issues are normally on the lines of inadequate film build to have the required sunlight resistance.

In my experience, the paint normally starts failing at the top edges of doors, fenders, and at the roof trough. All these areas are extremely difficult to get a proper film build without having runs or sags. Certain models had more issues, depending on the body design and contours. Vehicles in the desert SouthWest and Southern states usually have issues first. Much more exposure to bright sunlight.

Cathodic epoxy e-coat is used by most of the car companies as the initial e-coat paint film. It has outstanding corrosion resistance, and provides excellent protection to the metal. However, it has extremely poor sunlight resistance. You see people replace a fender with a new service part, and they don't get it painted with a topcoat. Within a couple of months (depending on amount of sunlight it receives), the e-coat will be chalky, and exposing the metal to the elements. It then starts to rust quite rapidly.

I have seen the issue on several manufacturers vehicles with white paints, in the last 10 years. Toyota was not the only one with the problem. Honda had issues with Taffeta White (NH578). I have seen Hyndais and Kias peeling off, and Nissans.
In the late 80's, all the American car manufacturers (Ford, GM, Chrysler) had issues with the blue/silver paints peeling off. Dealerships had to add paint booths to get all the cars and trucks repainted.

UV degradation also is the primary cause of clearcoat peeling, although this is another discussion entirely.

 

I like the dark green.

 

Nope.
I have a 2015 and 2018 Prius (Prii?).
My tow pig is a 1995 Ford E-350, a retired church van. Already banged up enough that I don't worry about it.
I am working on a 1965 F-100 for myself, anda 1951 F-1 for my wife.

 

I have had good luck wth OsPho over the years, but any name brand is going to be fine.
Eastwood has some good products.

 

Well, I am normally not considered an asset, more of an embarassment!

 

Talented amateur.

 

You are seeing 15 years of sunlight, and leading edge wear.

Base/clear paints normally start to peel after enough years and miles.

Back in the days of single stage paints, the leading edges of hoods, front fenders, and roofs would start to wear through.

Buffing the vehicles is also a good way to wear away the paint.

Since environmental regulations required the OEM's to switch from solvent borne to water borne paints, the issue has gotten worse.