Advice on removing these bolts

Just wanted to be able to use my new torque wrench and torque it down to 134, back it off one turn, then to 64 like the book says. Guess i wont then. How do u tighten/loosen the nut when its not all removed?

 

With it hooked up still on the Transfer Case. The torque forces from the Transfer Shaft with engine power are far greater than the torque wrench so you should be good? Thats how I did mine. So far so good. Crimp that castle nut after torquing.

 

Alright sweet. Yea do u crimp it with pliers? And i notice the threads for the nut has a big "gash" in it on the bottom, do i need to do anything special cause of that? And how do i know which way to put the new bearing on? Thanks for all your help pro hand model

 

Nvrm, the bearing has arrows on it. I'm assuming you put it on so the arrows face forward

 

The nut is a shield nut and you kink it with a small chisel or flat head screw driver. It keeps the underlying nut from turning. Put it back on like you took it off. Study your pics. The single hole should face down.

 

Cant line up the rear and front driveshaft at all now. Dont know what i did wrong. Been trginf for 1 hour and its always just a hair off...

 

Rock the truck so that the shaft moves so that he holes line up. Might need a second person. Rock and push the chocks tight on the wheels to lock her in place.

 

@Professional Hand Model i put it in nuetral and tweaked the front shaft a little. Put everything back together, took it for a drive and it sounds like shit down there. It sounds like a roaring bearing and has a weird chirp sound now. My god i always find a way to f something up. With all the tools i bought and the bearing i could have just brought it to the mechanic by now

 

Did you do these 2 steps that Professional Hand Model suggested? 2) Mark your entire shaft with chalk so when you go to line things back up they match.
6) Use anti seize on everything during put back and line your marks back up or your truck will vibrate badly when driving.

 

Don't get too discouraged Im sure you will work it out. On the upside you can never have to many tools!

 

Son?

 

He might be a chip off the ol’block?

El Manglito, Juñiór.

 

Hey, with me snapping 2 LBJ bolts he could be my nephew.

 

I'm late but applying heat will go a long ways..

 

Thinking about what i did. I put. Washer back into the new spicer bearing which i dont think i should have.. that does not look like a place i should have out a washer lol

 

@MS22 did u get urs done?

 

Had some side work come up so I haven't had a chance to work on it. How is it coming along with yours?

 

Brother?

 

Well guys I'm offically a dumb fuck. I jacked up my two rear wheels to see where the noise was coming from. My center bearing wasnt making any noise and it sounded like my rear left tire was making the growling noise. Which is weird for it to do that right after changing my center bearing.. anyways, i go to put the truck and park and i didnt put my foot on the brake, resulting in a bunch of grinding noises.. I'm a dumb ass. My truck shifts fine but when i first took it for a test drive i heard a loud pop from the rear end. Then it never happened again. But now when i hit 45 mph and i hit my highest gear, there is the growling noise again. I am such a dumbass and i am beyond pissed at myself. I have no idea what is going on

 

Take a step back and breathe a second. How are your rear wheel bearings? Have they been replaced recently?

 

They are original as far as i know

 

Ok, that'll definitely cause a growl or low rumble. Kind of a wah wah wah sound when driving. Does it grind when you turn the wheel by hand?

 

Its the rear wheel. I jacked the rear end up again and they both have some side to side play in them

 

The growl gets worse at 45 mph in the highest gear when its under high load. Does that kinda sound like a wheel bearing too?

 

Sumting wong. I wonder if canniboids were involved in this.

 

Nope lol. I am pissed off though. Everytime i do something to my truck i somehow mess it up. A carrier bearing job turned into a big fuckn mess now

 

Where do you think you went wrong?

 

You mentioned something about a pinion bearing going bad somewhere earlier. I'm guessing the bang you heard was related to that since you were I assume hammering on the driveshaft.

Also how is the oil level in the differential?

 

I am not sure. The only alarming things i did so far is when trying to separate the two driveshafts, i was pulling down and the rear shaft pulled put of the slip yoke a little.. i pushed it back in and filled with grease again so it was long enough to make contact with the mid shaft section. I torqued down the bearing nut with it still attached to the transmission, though i doubt that torque on that bolt has anything to do with it. Another thing worth mentioning is i heard a strange noise the first time after doing this job, and during that test drive i never drove fast enough to experience what I'm experiencing right now (above 45mph). Another way i think i could have gone wrong is having the truck up and putting it in park with the wheels still spinning. My mechanic said that shouldnt be an issue and should only affect the parking prowl if anything. After doing that i took it on a test drive and heard a loud metal bang/pop from my rear end. No idea what that was.. if it was anything serious i hope its my rear diff, cause i need to do the pinion bearing anyways. TO SUM IT UP-thats all i think i could have done wrong... when i put the two rear wheels up i did that to test and see if any noise was coming from the carrier bearing. I couldnt hear any noise and i put my finger on the bottom of the bearing and felt nothing rough or anything at all. No idea man but it stresses me the helllll out. My mechanic said he can look at it the 29th.. thanks for reading lol

 

@Professional Hand Model maybe hitting the u joints with a hammer ruined the u joints?? Idk man