Worked great, use with ball joint pressing tool set, the one that looks like a giant C-clamp and comes with adapter discs and cups. Did a 2000 Taurus. The actual pressing out and in was easy, the real work is removing the steering knuckle (hub carrier) from the car, which can't be avoided. Another reviewer did it without removal, but it still requires slipping the axle out of the hub, and the car has to be high enough to fit the press from below. This may mean a lift rather than jack stands.I chose to do the pressing out and in on the workbench while standing up and with full access. My back thanked me. You need to remove brake caliper and bracket (Loctite on bolts, rugged), tie rod stud, ball joint stud, sway bar links, strut-to-knuckle bolts, cv axle nut, and ABS sensor (at wire connector behind fender liner or pulling sensor itself. Did both ways, one sensor was stuck.) YouTube has some vids. One shows hitting the tie rod stud end to remove. That almost never works if it was properly tightened, and don't pickle fork the tie rod end if you want to re-use it. Pullers are needed. The 2 hammers trick is also forbidden as the steering knuckle is aluminum alloy and it will be ruined. A larger, similar style (2 arms with a center forcing screw) puller is needed on the ball joint stud.
Ford repair manual shows some bolts as single use/ "always replace". You'll need to order those ahead of time. The local dealership doesn't carry them in stock, which means their techs aren't replacing them. Hmmm ... . Same with Hondas. If re-using, clean off the old Loctite before applying the new. Look up specs and use a torque wrench. Allow a lot of time for this job. This car was original everything and it was hand-to-hand combat at almost every step. Also used Motorcraft MCSOE76 ball joints (Amazon), with better boot material. The originals cracked easily and had no grease fittings, which is why you're reading this. Also happens on Rangers, but they're easier. Any job can be done, but 1st timers will get stuck.
Big hint: support the car with stands under the body rails, not the engine/transmission subframe ( the big rectangle under the front). I used the subframe and that compressed the subframe-to-body mounts. That raised the control arm just enough to make ball joint stud removal/ installation at the tapered hole barely possible, even with the arm pried down to its limit. I always get smarter afterwards, but it's better to not wait that long.
| Manufacturer | Powerbuilt |
|---|---|
| Brand | Powerbuilt |
| Model | 641321 |
| Item Weight | 3.12 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 2.75 x 10.38 x 6.5 inches |
| Country of Origin | Taiwan |
| Item model number | 641321 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 641321 |
